Bug

We could just print all the posts on CC.com deleting all the spray and chestbeating. Oh wait. Never mind.......

From the report two posts above, "We bypassed the Gendarme to avoid hauling [...]". So was there any rime or icy shit up there? I've heard the bypass can be more nasty than the Gendarme. We were back at the car at dark:50 anyway. But that is why were avoiding the gendarme with two 30lb packs. The gully was dusted and then filled in on the smaller ledges but the climbing was still easy and the pro was no worse than usual thru there. Very doable. Watch for the pins when you are first getting out of the gully. One is up about 30 feet, the next is 30 after that. The climbing around the snow went at 5.5.

I strung wired hex's together and made a long enough cable to lock my trunk shut after it had been jimmied.

Greg_w and I went up the NR of Stuart via the glacier last weekend. The weather was cloudy Friday and we were not sure if we would wake up on Goat pass to climbing weather or not. The stars came out about midnight and it continued to clear the rest of the night. We got started about 7am and other than my falling on the water ice before we put on crampons, we cruised the glacier and ridge with our bivy size packs. We bypassed the Gendarme to avoid hauling and were on the summit about 2. No speed records were broken but we had a great mellow weekend of clean granite in alpine terrain. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2093&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504

I'll bet it's that new climbing area by Skykomish.

I tried but I still have not figured out how to post a pic in a thread. It seems to be priviledged information as no one will explain it to me. So just imagine the south face of Stuart with alpinegloe on the top half and pretty green trees on the bottom third of the frame.

I spend $45 plus gas for a day of skiing. It allways kills me to leave a cam. So I've only done it twice. In 1975 I left two hexes and a biner on a route I was working on in the Bitterroots. I didn't get back for 16 years and they were still there. Since it was under an overhang and in the shade, the slings still looked good. It didn't take long to decide to cut them off tho. I still have those hexes.

Yes. So is heroin.

I'm going tomorrow. The Stuart Lk TH is closed. We are going in over goat pass from the Ingalls TH. Have a good one. There are a few good Nridge threads in the Alpine Lakes forum.

Un ugly matron from east Germany.

OK. Greg_W has volunteered. There is a climber out there.

Come ON climbers. Friday Saturday. Newbies welcome. You will like the w ridge of Stuart. Anyone else, I'm open. There are some climbers out there right?

Chrisianity was a recycle your soul religion until Justinian had teh pope assasinated and installed a pope who spewed a more Roman view of things. Theodora was his lovely wife who may have had a strangle hold on his dick and designs on her own immortality. Most likely, it was she who was the evil genius behind the radical shifts in social norms of that time. Anyway, I would not want to live forever in this body. No. Not Pamela Anderson's either. Just give me 135 years in this one and I will be ready for the next phase. That gives me about 96 years to go which is about how long I predict it will take for the new global society to stabalize. History will call us primitive globalists.

I did it in mountain boots the year before that.

It's a long way eh. Thanks for the invite. I'm looking for a higher climbing to driving ratio.

I promise not to roll in any shit or stick my hands in your gorp.

W ridge or Stuart? S face of Prussick? Anything else?

Very nice. Can't wait to see the pics.

Right on dude! I traveled endlessly until I was 34. Whenever I was interviewing for a job, I was calculating how long it would take me to save enough money to quit and go traveling. Mexico and Syria were my favorite places to visit. Alaska in the summer was a close third. My diatribe was about now, when I have three kids and a wife, house, boat, health insurance and a whole bunch of even more boring stuff that requires a stable existence. Don't let the rain get you down. Try white water boating or scuba diving until the snow flies.

NW Or is the only place I know of that gets MORE rain than Western Wa. I lived there off and on for about eight years. So you must not be refering to that. Eastern Or has the mighty Smith Rock and the Willowas even further out there but Smith is over-run and the Willowas are in the middle of nowhere. Hard to get a job there. I tried. The OR volcanoes are nice but not any better than WA volcanoes and NONE of them come close to the variety on Rainier. I have land there and have checked out some of the routes. For the most part, OR has very little granite near a place you could reasonably live and work. Idaho and Montana are great places but again offer limited job options. I lived in MT for 30 years and worked a fair amount in Idaho. The living standard there is depressing. Move there if you are already rich. Otherwise develope a taste for rice and beans and murder your share of wildlife (I love fresh venison). California? Somebody else cover that crowded mess. I'm at work and do not have time. Colorado is pretty cool but you pretty much need to be near Denver or Boulder or you are stuck in the seasonal income bullshit again. Utah is where my inlaws are from. They will come to your door soon. NM and AZ ,try climbing from May through mid October. Alaska-too dark in the winter. Yup. I like WA. I go over to the east side when I need sun in the winter. I get my girls out on lakes and in the mountains all summer. I used to climb 3 days a week. We ski all winter. We have plenty of money because mommy and daddy went to college and got good jobs in a prosperous city. I am happy here. I love to travel but this is where I want to live. Maybe you should adjust your meds.

All my wife's gear.

Wow. I thought you were Dan's new avatar. Now I have rethink all your posts.

Your dog looks fast and light.

"Be prepared" is the Boy scout motto. Troop 9 in Missoula MT used to go on 50 mile hikes through the Bob or the Mission Mts every summer. We normally had 50 lb packs the first few days for 7 days out and no climbing gear. Some of the kids still got cold. They weren't prepared because they had a lot of worthless shit in their packs. The same can be true of today's high tech climbers. Having a leaning toward fast and light inspires one to think a little more carefully about what is really needed. Being lighter without shorting yourself is always a good thing. It does take experience to "know" what you will need with a high degree of accuracy. But the more thought you put into it, the more likely you will be to leave something heavy and unnessessary at home.