russ

Anyone know anything about the route to the right of Endless Bliss on the right margin of the main slab? Below and right of EB are 3 routes (10d,12a,11c). Then to the right of these is a line that goes up a right leading ramp to a jug haul above - 5.7/8? After looking back at the rock from the trail, I think the route I'm talking about may go off the top of this one. But we didn't know that at the time, so didn't look up to explore. (the 10c is just to the right of the 7/8.) TIA. approx line in blue.. why isn't the photo displayed??

imo the last pitch has a 5.9 move, so I'm okay with the overall rating. Pitch 8 isn't 5.9, imo, but a fun pitch and climb nonetheless. In theory 5.9 is 5.9, but in the real world there's much variation... Grade III is half a day climbing - seems about right for III+ to get back down.

We were at Pearl Gates two summer ago when a family of 5 or 6 spied us from the top, then worked their way down to us. The large male made a somewhat aggressive move at my buddy, he yelled and waved aggressively back - the goat backed off. It was clear they are very use to people....

Looks like it blew off the ridge line above, caught up in tree. Broken pole and small tear in the fly, but mostly in good shape. Email to get it back ( I don't visit this site often).

For anyone concerned... passed a large group that was probably the Tacoma mounties on Sunday. They were near the far end of Riverview, where no one else was...bothering no one. Excellent choice by their leaders.

Here's another way to go for an approach ski - solves the "which boots" issues. http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-56160431387474_2003_2349038 I bought a pair for my non-skiing girlfriend. They worked fine for tramping around in the snow, then she decided she wanted to ski. I'll sell them for $200. - Russ

Knee problems are real & the drive is still going - hire a punk!

cascadian... go in/out via Teanaway

original photo of discussion:

I've still got the photo with colored lines, etc., but lost the site I use to post them from. If I can figure out how to upload photos tonight I'll repost it. If not I can email it to you.

Sounds like you're describing the close up rock in the center of the photo. Minute Man (if my memory is correct) is on the buttress on the left in the background. Route starts on the slab to the left of the larger snow field. I barely made out what I think is the 10b crack, but the roof isn't visible from the photo's angle. With really good imagination (and more than one sip of my beer), I think you barely see the "money hands crack" above the roof that bwrts refers to (lighter grey shield near to top).

I was glancing through John Long's book on anchors and I'm pretty sure he also refers to this knot as "overhand". There are several anchor/knot books on the market - it would be interesting to see if they are consistant. As a side comment - a couple of weeks ago on Condorphamine I was planning to try to get my partner comfortable with the EDK/overhand by tying it and having her watch the knot as I rappel down. When the accident happened and I reached the stranded climber, the first comment she made when I started to set up the rappel was "what knot are you going to use?". I quickly abandoned any thought of the EDK and responded with "triple fisherman" - that reassured her enough to continue. It made me think it through a little more - unless there is obvious, eminent danger of a knot getting stuck, I'm going to go with knot that reassures everyone involved in the rappel. Why add any more strain to the danger of rappeling?

I few years ago in August my partner I were trying to do the complete car-to-car in 24 hrs. It was a little bigger bite than we could handle . It became apparent we would have to bivy somewhere, so even though it was only mid-afternoon we choose the ledges where the north ridge joins because there was snow we could melt. Bivy was a driclime shirt and light foil sack. The foil sack lasted a hour or two - still wasn't that bad. I'd induce shivering every hour or so to warm up . If your going in August with stable, warm weather I'd bring the lightest bag possible - your liner bag sounds perfect. If any chance of weather add the bivy sack.

I've got 2 extra rocks collected off the face if you need to touch it as well . Dang, now you can just pick them up in the valley.

I guess this is just cc.com or the internet in general, but I'm amazed at the lack of sensitivity to Emily's family and friends in some of these posts.... why not take it to this thread specifically created for open discussion?