Farrgo

Unless I'm thinking of this wrong rigging the rap to pull the lead line first would mean that you are rapping with both ropes through the device (like a standard double/twin rope descent). I've done that before and it was real crappy and real scary and I wouldn't do it again. I understand the concern of getting a rope stuck and ending up a chunk of cordalette for the rest of the descent. In general for long descents that require more then 10 rappels I figure that it is probably taking a rope system that will expedite the descent (rather than simply a light system that quickens the approach). If you are only going to do a few rappels than it is less committing even if the rope gets chopped. My 2 cents...

Who's done it? Gear beta? Pictures/antidote psych?

Anyone looking to get out for ice or mixed?

Anybody down? I've got some ideas, gear, car, etc...

Anybody interested in climbing on 1/3?

Can you accidentally include more pictures of the Black Buttes next time?

Ready... set... go!

Agreed. I end up doing a lot of dowel work in the early season though. If your doing any pullups, deadhangs or KTE in your regular routine then make sure you're doing them with dowels instead. Grip strength, and more specifically just holding on for a long time is 95% of steep ice climbing.

Anyone interested in some Tuesday alpine climbing? Thinking Leavenworth area...

Well not local, even by a long shot, but EMS.com has 20% basically everything and an extra 10% off it you buy by 12pm EST.

Anyone want to head to Leavenworth Thursday? I'd like to get on Hyperspace if anyone is interested.

Maybe I'm crazy but I've always used a butterfly or simple overhand to make a cowtail. I almost never use it if I think a fall is likely and if so, always double up on the biners.

Take a long weekend and rally out to Canmore or Bozeman.

I bring my 6mm rap line when I don't expect to rap, but the climb is too committing (for myself) to launch out with a single cord. That being said, my 6mm has never left the pack. I have rapped on other 6mm cords and it was difficult... and scary. In general you just need to go with the rope system that is going to work for the climb you're doing. If you know you're doing 10+ raps might as well go with doubles or twins... you'll save time over screwing with a tangly perlon cord.

Jason S and I climbed this yesterday and today. I agree that the protection was essentially non-existant. We had trouble finding a feasible way out of the N bowl but found an escape through a fairly direct gully a little left of your high-point anchor. There was no protection in this gully but there was enough climbable snice to make it realistic. I felt the crux of the route was the second pitch on the upper ridge where snow had covered the cracks and holds. We had a great time on the route but wouldn't consider it "in" condition at the moment. Also, saw some tracks heading out to the East Face... story?

Trip: Strobach - Unholy Baptism Date: 12/28/2010 Trip Report: Colin B and I had a productive trip into Strobach yesterday. We climbed what we believe is the first complete ascent of Unholy Baptism. The first pitch (~70m) was ice pouring out over the cliff with a thin top out. This pitch took 13cm screws but the ice was rotten and most pro was suspect. The second pitch (~65m) started on some cauliflower and mixed climbing on the right then climbed 20m of sustained and overhanging ice to a small stance and another 30m of vertical ice. We used 12 screws and a few finger-sized cams and blades on this this pitch. Thankfully the second pitch took 16cm screws for most of it's length but again the top-out was thin junky ice that offered little protection. We rappelled from a tree up and right of the climb. Unholy Baptism certainly seem like a fitting name for this climb. It's the steepest and most sustained pitch either of us have climbed and feel that it merits the WI6 grade in current conditions. Unholy Baptism First Pitch Second Pitch Colin contemplating the drop Gear Notes: Screws, small rock rack, 70m ropes helpful Approach Notes: FS 1202 left on Rd 611 follow that and bushwack through trees to Motherload area ~2.25-2.5 hours

Lots of deep unconsolidated snow

Bailed at last minute... anyone want to get out tomorrow (Thursday). Thinking I90 corridor. Nate

Looks in but thin this afternoon.

If your jonesing the Upper Tier Cape Horn stuff seems to come in quickest and stick around the longest.

Nice. How's the ghost road currently?

Anybody want to go climb at Rap Wall this weekend?

Out of curiosity did you do anything taller or longer than Alpamayo? Maybe I'm biased by personal experience because lots of people say they have no problem with singles down there. Maybe it comes down to what routes you're going after? I can't imagine that anyone would prefer singles for one of the really big routes on the Huascaran or Huandoy massifs but maybe I'm wrong.

If you plan on climbing anything South facing or high (above 6k) singles are probably not going to cut it. I took singles my first trip and did fine on the lower-altitude routes that had sun exposure. I got frostbite on the south-facing 6k route I did. I would not go back down with traditional singles. I would go down with something like the Phantom Light but no with the Scarpa Freney which is what I took on my first trip. FWIW on my last two trips I climbed with Nuptses and Spantiks respectively. They were only overkill on the acclimatization peaks, but I was happy to have them on the real deal.

I would love to... then I could actually climb something instead of huddle in a cave. However, the tyranny of work...