G-spotter

friends don't let friends tele

Haha Kelly and Katy beat McGee to the Plum. Early risers...

omg text teh waaaahmbulance the system is down!

What about people that live in 10-member socialist collectives?

I am thinking of the Tami Knight cartoon that begins with a little rat declaiming "I eschew clothing and free solo ice climbs naked..."

I heard thru the grapevine that Plum Lite got climbed on Sat up the Birkenhead too.

If you want to see Mountains in your Mountain film Fest, the VIMFF (Vancouver International Mountain Film Fest) has the content you are missing from the Best of the Banff tour.

Twashtarkena strategy: tell you FF doesn't understand the market over and over again. Patagonia stuff sells because of the Patagonia logo. Not because of how it fits or functions. I have 5 pieces of Patagucci gear that i've found as booty or thrift-stored over the years and it's all pretty much crap. also a pair of spendy climbing gloves that i actually bought retail last year that also suck. I'm not sold on Patagucci.

Meh. Slesse Creek is at 10-year flood stage, Stave River's getting up there but Coquihalla and Chilliwack Rivers peaked at less than 2-year. Flooding is spotty and not widespread.

I am trying to figure out where this is in relation to Anthrax Ripple. At first I thought it might be the bottom of the larger gully just right of A.R. which is used as descent from that route but comparing your photo to my overview photo of AR and the descent gully makes the descent gully look wider than the gully in your photo. Maybe your route was further right. Was there any ice higher up in the gully than the 60m that you climbed? Don - if you read this, add your opinion. I know there are a bunch of gullies between the Mess Left and AR that sometimes have ice and sometimes don't.

rivers won't peak until tomorrow morning at the earliest i'd expect a few washouts but nothing too big - alpine snowpack absorbed a lot of moisture in the first few hours of the storm, and it never got as warm as predicted.

you know you're on Robson Street when you see chix wearing a down knee-length coat in pouring rain

never seen a guy with camel toe. Haven't you ever seen Tvashtarkena's Tron costume pics?

100% chance of pagetopping floods

You guys are sissies. Floods are awesome. I got up at 5 AM to go watch a house float away in the Valley

Just to update conditions - Hope and Jarvis Bluffs didn't have climbable ice on Saturday afternoon. Don't know about Sunday cause I was in bed most of the day and when i went outside visibility was 5 feet or less.

How far west from the Sumallo Grove parking lot, then?

How far past the ruined cabins? Might be an FA.

oh? How many were killed by fallout downwind of Chinese, French, Russian, UK, above ground bomb testing? French kept testing bombs aboveground at Mururoa into 1990s. Much of French Polynesia downwind...

Um... Pakistan has had the bomb for what, 10 years now.

ruler

Damn, girl, that was quick. "...She is the patron saint of chastity, gardeners, girls, engaged couples, rape victims and virgins..." Guess that would be the right saint for me... Shit, I've been skinnydipping in St. Agnes Well a few times, and i had no idea.

Yes I am not only both but fat as well. However, as I am still alive, I take that to heart as an indication that I have been smart enough to avoid the chop yet this far. Drew, Rock and Ice did tests which surprisingly was able to develop up to 1300 lbs on a belayed Toprope fall. If you have any Canadian math handy, please note that the low rating on the Ushba can be exceeded by that figure. Now, I've been a good sport and provided links to shit which has shown me to be correct. I have only done this to contribute to your knowledge, safety and well being. You can find this info online, it is not a secret. I have children, and like you, they often choose to ignore my wisdom. I'm saying no worries there, I'm use to being relagated to the shitheap, but yet I still want you to have the info, despite the fact that you are but a lowly Canadian. And a bit of an obnoxious one at that. I'm trying to say, in my way: "you're welcome". You are still confused. Let me spell this out in small words, OK? I agree that the Ushba Basic, Petzl Shunt etc. will cut the rope around 5 kN. I agree, for purposes of argument that force on a belay device during a top roped fall can reach 1300lbs. Which is 5.8 kN. It's important to note that this is not a totally static fall. It is because in top-roped climbing the rope is doubled through an anchor. Unless the rope is yarded tight all the time, slack can develop. On stretchier skinny ropes, there can be appreciable rope stretch as well during a toprope fall (I've seen someone fall off from 10m up and deck out while toproping Icy Bc on bell-ringer style double 8.5s tied together). All of which can result in increased force. This scenario is irrelevant for the Petzl, Ushba set up to belay in solo toprope mode. In this case, the single line is fixed down the cliff and weighted at the bottom. The belay point moves up the rope with the climber - result - no slack. The belay point is fixed to the climber's waist resulting in falls being essentially motion of the center of gravity. The only way to generate enough force to cut the rope using such a set up is to extend the belay device away from the body with a sling - creating the same problem as in via ferrata falls. Therefore it is best when using such a device and setup to have the device as close to the body as possible. For this reason and to prevent the connector from crossloading (common problem with HMS biners & self-belay devices) using a 3/8" or larger stock Maillon rapide is preferable to a biner. That said, the Troll Rocker or this new Asap have been designed specifically to have higher breaking strength and are therefore safer devices. But Ushba, MiniTrax etc. work fine & are safe for self-belay, as I have probably hundreds of falls with no rope damage to attest to.

lazy bastard lurking on top of the damn page

Reuters reports Yeti footprints found Quick, call Messner!