Trip: Hells Gate/Fraser Canyon - FA "Styx" 105m WI3
Date: 1/26/2008
Trip Report:
This line is located 200m north of Cerberus on the west side of Hells Gate. I had scoped it earlier and it seemed pretty easy, with a couple steep steps dividing rambly-type ice.
My friend Sarah was down from PG and looking to do her first ice leads so this appeared to be a good choice. We left Agassiz at 7:30, had some Triple O's in Hope and left the car parked at Hells Gate around 8:30.
Hiked down to the river, waited for 2 trains to pass, crossed the bridge and 2 sets of fences, and hiked up the tracks past Cerberus gully to below the route.
Crampons on at the tracks and 100m of easy approach hiking up low-angle ice led to the route.
First pitch was 45m with 5m and 15m WI3 steps separated by easy ice.
Second and third pitches were led by Sarah for her first two ice leads. P2 was 20m WI2, mostly moving the belay up an easy ramp. P3 was 40m WI3 with a 5m near-vertical wall halfway up and easier ice elsewhere.
Two raps down. Snow started on first rappel.
On the way back out it turned out one of the locked gates we had climbed over was not really locked.
Slog back up to the highway, as always, is crux of climbing at Hells Gate.
Gear Notes:
8 screws, 2 ropes, waterproof gloves
Approach Notes:
Hike down trail, cross river, walk up tracks