Heinouscling

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: yeah, one big muthafuckin potato! OK, but you're supposed to place it in the front of your speedos. -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: yeah, one big muthafuckin potato!Oh, by the way i just put up a first ascent called "Playing Pocket Pool With a Potato" and graded it 5.16b but it's really only 5.11a (don't tell anyone about the 5.11 part) I once saw a guy at Smith climbing in nothing but a jock strap. It was sort of gross. Especially when he had to stem way out. I think he was climbing "Wartley's Revenge". Its a good thing he didn't have Montezuma's Revenge. Haarrr! I crack myself up. -Heinous [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Heinouscling ]

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: long live "ego" grades. i'll go back to smith when everything goes up one full number grade so that i can feel like i'm cool. until then i'm off to do laps on "sweet pain" barefoot and naked with a watermelon tied around my waist! Is that sort of like walking along the beach with a potato in your speedo? -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by trask: ...thankyou Dru, for those words of wit, now I must run to take a shit. Enjoy your shit Trask and don't forget to wipe your pimply ass. -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: So i figured it out...don't train hard. instead, find the "softest" graded routes and send them. right? so where should we go? I've been told Skaha has soft grades. I might say this about the older routes but the newer ones did not strike me as easy. Especially on "Claim it all" wall. -Heinous

Hey folks, I'm almost at a hundred! -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by Dru: no, your ex Dru, YOU DOG!! I thought that was your foul smelling breath I get a wiff of, whilst my nose was buried in her loins. We will discuss this over beers this coming weekend. -Heinous

So, how do you all feel Smith is rated, compared to other areas, such as RR? I find the knobs and pockets seem to make Smith climbs a little stiffer compared to areas such as Skaha. -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I don't suck. I lick So, you must be referring to asscrack?

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: And here he is sending it! That looks like a freaking fun climb! -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I don't suck. I lick Well, let me give you a little advice. Equal portions of sucking and licking works best. Add in a little pinch for good measure. Just before the top out. OH YEA!!!!!!! -Heinous [ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Heinouscling ]

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I actually mistyped that. I meant sketching on 5.1 not 5.11 I like how you mentioned you "suck...crack"[sic] right next to the comment about pleasuring women. Talk about subliminal reinforcement! Trask are you paying attention here? Ha, ha. Dru, you're quick. Yes, the crack that I suck has nothing at all to do with Squamish!! Dru, do you suck at crack? HOW MANY CCers SUCK AT CRACK?!?!? -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Do I want to climb this level to open up new and more challenges to myself and to be able to climb some really cool routes? If so then go with the first way. You'll get good and you'll have tons of cool routes under your belt. Will, I have to agree with you here. We must remember that difficulty and quality are not always equal, when it comes to particular climbs. It would make sense, though, that the harder one climbs, the more high quality routes become available to that climber. Smith being a perfect example. Of coarse, there are some that would say Smith has NO high quality routes. This brings up an interesting question. What is the definition of a poser? This could be a good topic for a new thread. -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Look assmunch thats pretty bold talking about style cause we will see who has the better style in Lillooet this weekend. I have been training a bottle of rum a night for the last month. Im going to still be sending (beers down my throat ) while you are passed out in a frozen puddle of puke outside the back door of the pub. I give you warning PS If you wanna put your money where your mouth is climbing I got some routes in Squamish for you to fail on Ah shit, now you're trying to compare 5.11 sport to ice climbing? Dru, please. I've never climbed with you Dru so you have to know that I was pulling your chain. Didn't you see the Razz gremlin? Besides, I consider it very bad style to comment on someone else's climbing unless said person puts your life in danger and you feel obligated to warn someone who may be considering that person as a partner. Also, YOU admitted to sketching on 5.11. As for my own climbing, I firmly believe in modesty. Action, not words! But this topic sort of pushed me into commenting on my climbing which I try to steer away from. Because, in all honesty, I DO SUCK!! I just had a "good day" a few months back. Now my beer belly won't let me get up anything. As for Squamish? Crack and sport are two different animals and I readily admit that I suck at crack. Now, when it comes to pleasuring women, there is no "better" then I. -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by Dru: i dunno about the calm and in control thing... you ever seen like Sharma or Graham or Doug Englekirk sketching up some route barely in control and fucking up sequences and kinda just hanging on there cause they have such good crimp strength....if they can sketch up 5.14 I can sketch up 5.11! 5.14 is generally regarded as pushing the envelope of the capabilities of today's generation of climbers (or, 5.15 now). There is a world of difference between 5.12 and 5.14. Especially 5.14D. Of coarse Sharma will probably be sketching on 5.14D. Thats fucking hard shit to climb! Regarding Sharma's climbing style, I've read that he tends to flail his feet no matter what he happens to be climbing. Its his personal style and it seems to work for him. I was not implying that all climbers use the principles I stated previously. Just the ones that I've witnessed climbing 5.12 and above. Dru, don't try to justify your shitty technique and style by placing your attempted routes in the same catagory as the hard shit that Sharma and Graham are playing on. 5.9s and 5.10s are hardly comparable to 5.14. -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by dyno merchant: heinouscling... if you didn't copy all that info from a training book than i'm impressed! All that info was awesome and it translates to all styles of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering...whatever). Every climber should read that and take note. Thanks dyno. I try to share whenever possible. I've read a few books also, but none of them came close to helping me compared to actually watching the principles put into action. I remember by "seeing and doing" and I can tell you that I saw plenty of what I stated previously, regarding climbing 5.12. Sort of like Lion cubs watching mother hunt. Regarding partners, yes, thats another big one. I didn't bust into 5.11 climbing until I hooked up with my current partner who was climbing 5.11 when I met him. Now we both have a very strong desire to get into 5.12. We feed off from each other and we constantly discuss our strategy for how we might accomplish this. We've made it our goal to be climbing 5.12 with decent style by the end of the coming Summer. I don't believe it would be best to hook up with someone too far above your current ability or else you just end up flailing. The worst outcome would be to end up injured. I believe to get into 5.12 climbing will be a slow progression (for me anyhow). -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by daler: Just a quick response to the whole Deeping wall issue. First of all leading the deeping wall in this years conditions is not being a "crazy mother Fucker" I led it twice this year and felt totally in control. Grade 6 ice is often much harder and run out than the deeping wall. Although in a area like marble canyon where there are massive amounts of people tring to climb, toproping should be expected, but leaders always have the right of way!! It does bum me out to find a climb like the deeping wall all picked out because it does take away from the challenge on lead, but again I'll just head somewhere else to find virgin hard ice.I agree with the comments that excessive toproping just work against you. But no one should ever step onto the sharpend on ice and not be anything but totally in control. To do otherwise is just stupid. If you want to improve get a mentor or hire a guide and get some honest learning done, toproping grade 5 ice a hundred times ice doesn't teach you much, except that its steep and pumpy. dale remsberg Tis true that leading Deeping wall does not make you a craxy mofo. All it means it that you are willing to assume more risk than others, which is a huge part of climbing in the first place. I disagree partly on the comment regarding excessive TRing. I believe excessive TRing could potentially make a climber more relaxed on the sharpend, due to the climber getting too used to being on a nice, safe TR. I also believe TRing some shit much harder than a climber usually would lead allows that climber to work on his/her technique. TRing Deeping wall is not simply a matter of bashing on what little ice is there. To do it in good style (and to save your picks) requires delicate, graceful usage of the picks and crampons. As for a route getting beat up due to TRing, yea, that sort of sucks. Ok, lets go with this then! I'm willing! NO MORE TRing ON ICE! I have now officially declared it unlawful and it will be entered as such in the Official Ice Climbing Books Of Rules And Good Style. The Mountaineers, as always, shall be the enforcer of this new rule. So it is done and so it shall be!!!! Case Closed!! NOW GO CLIMB SOME ICE YOU CRAZY BASTARDS!!! -Heinous P.S. Dale, you seen Stimpy around lately?

quote: Originally posted by Dru: If everyone poured beer down Deeping Wall it would make taking the core out of ice screws way better Do you eat your ice screw cores? Hmmm, that could be a good idea. You know, to stay hydrated and all that good shit. -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: All I am saying is that if you try to talk like a pompous person like I should not tr while I am tring something be prepared for the skull fuck with the ice axe. I will certianly be glad to get outright hostile when fucked with. Otherwise you can hang smoke a fatty and drink a brew like a cool brah, and shut your fucking piehole! [ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] Man alive! Whats with all this violent talk? All I asked is "Do you want to dance?". Its cool, brah. -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: still no takers on the remove me from the ice dare.. Just a lot of talkers like lamebone. [ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ] So Caveman. You saying you want to dance? -Heinous

"Greatness" is obviously a matter of perspective. Many people consider people who have climbed Everest to be "great". Even though those people merely tagged behind the sherpas carrying their shit and then used the fixed lines and ladders put in place by, why who else?, the sherpas. Granted, climbing Everest, in this manner is a great athletic accomplishment, but I cannot agree that it is a great climbing accomplishment. These people, by their very nature, spout off about their greatness to the public. Many are millionaire socialites who require large doses of attention in order to keep their bloated egos from imploding. This can be said of some of the "great" climbers, in regards to feeding their bloated egos. It is my belief that many great climbers are rather introverted and have no desire at all for any attention whatsoever. This personality trait, most likely, contributes much to their climbing greatness. It takes a special type of mentality to climb hard, nasty shit and to push the climbing envelope. Not unlike some of the other great, but introverted, minds that have become known. -Heinous

My personal policy on spray is, I never get personal. If it is something that might be taken personal, than I always leave names out and give no info such that an actual person's identity can be deduced or assumed (I.E. my shit thread). As for infidelity (even jokingly), I won't even go near it. As anonymous as some of you think you may be, your real identity will be discovered, especially if you hang with the climbing crowd in person (I.E. the ice fest coming up). I hate nasty surprises. Especially getting an ice pick in the forehead. -Heinous

Twight also included in one of his "Kiss Or Kill" stories how he shat in his altitude suit, cut his undies out of it, shat again, attempted to clean up, shat again, and finally said "Fuck it". I wish I could remember the story and author, but I distincly remember reading in Climbing, some years back, a story about two famous climbers climbing in the Himalayas. The author explained, in some detail, how the gal attempted to hang her ass out of the portaledge fly to let loose and didn't make it. Her asshole exploded in her suit and she and her partner had to deal with the smell for the rest of the climb. My shit thread has received over 40 replies so evidently I'm not the only one who enjoys a good story. I've climbed with several partners and a good shit story always pops up. Hey, its reality man. Often, shitting and climbing do not mix and a good story results. -Heinous

Hey, do you think Kristine Boskoff ever posts here? -Heinous

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Lisa had to go home to her husband Dang husbands. They are always getting in the way. -Heinous