roger_johnson

Mike Helms and Wendell Holmes did a winter climb of the big face back in the late 70s or early 80s.

You can catch the interview today on TVW at 12:30 or listen to it anytime on authors

What about the Harmon in T-town? Great beer, good food, and supports the climbing and skiing community and has pictures of Mtns on the walls.

You ask about a spring/summer boot good for crampons and glaciers and thn alpine rock. My recommendation is the regular Trango, no insulation needed. Insulation just adds bulk, weight and something else to dry out. I've used the Trango a lot, very comfortable for approach trails, supportive for steep dirt, heather, scree and a great edging, jamming and friction boot. I love it.

the elephant is great!

I have known JY since the seventies when he and I and a few others worked long and hard on the construction of SPIRE rock. Actually it might have been the early 80s. So easy to slip a decade... JY was and is a very talented climber and is always looking for new rts. You may only hear BS coming from JY because of your lack of knowledge of climbing history. Just the same way I thought Walter Bonatti was a BS master until I knew the full story. His exploits were a full measure beyond the accepted limits of climbing. I'm not sayin JY is another WB, but don't be so quick to dismiss JY as a BS master.

We went into the South side of Augusta in the early 70s and got a couple thousand feet up before the lack if good rock (tons of loose stuff everywhere) dictated a retreat. Of coarse, the avalanche sweeping our gear and ourselves away sped the descent up. Or is it sped our descent down? Very happy that JT is down and recovering!

keyes pk?

Name those peaks! Or, is the one on the right a new Moss tent design? Do I spot a new route up the shinny ice face on the left? Avy territory in the rift between the peaks.

The winner is not a new entry. This incident happend many years ago. I first heard about it in a book that is at least 5 years old.

I think the climber is Fred Stanley...? This and a couple others were on the walls of Sheltons Cafe in L-worth, Freds coffee place. He was "fond" of the owner, Maxine. The real controversy at Castle was the logging of Loggers Ledge by climbers. Before that it was a bush wack to the top of Jello and the moss and dirt fest to the top.

Ditto Dru: "chop chop".

WOW! Sounds like Specialed has a deep seated problem with"hippie-ass" ways. There is noting wrong with tying slings, sewn slings are just another way for corporate greed to get your money. Kind of like all those versions of SUVs, its just transportation for Gods sake. Sure sleek design and a small improvement in strength really do not improve the usefulness of the q-draws. We used to call them hero loops, they could be tied around shallow pins or made into a q-draw. Because they are no longer called hero loops doesn't make them any less useful. Because they came from the "hippie-ass" era doesn't make them any less useful. "Friends" are a product of that era, "hippie-ass pieces of shit" you say? Try not to let your prejudices rule your life.

I was in country in the late sixties and did some climbing in the Highlands near Kontum and Bien Het. Pretty good rock but not huge,had to solo everything, no gear but the motivation to keep moving was high. There was a little rock climbing on some hill tops near Pleiku and AnKay Pass. It has been so long ago my spelling is fuzzy...

I've been in the Ruth Gorge and can say that a top end of WI 4 and 5.8 is pretty low for the mts in that area. Might have more to choose from in another range. Just a thought.... Another thought- It is an incredable place!! Worth the trip! Skiing down glacier towards Mt. Johnson, past the East face of Barille is like nothing else. You could pioneer many new lines on the peaks below Mooses Tooth. [ 03-29-2002: Message edited by: roger johnson ]