iamjacktors

bobbyperu - check your pm's. Erik - I'll let you know when I'm done up here.

It fell off prior to our '97 ascent. It only affects the last pitch where you have to traverse left into the new corner for a half pitch. Looking down the new corner, it looks like a great new route - a splitter LFC, but there's probably still a bit of loose stuff hanging out in there. Or who knows, maybe more has ripped off since.

The East Buttress of Johnson is a moderate classic. Ask W - he'll tell you.

The Bend actually is closed for a period of time each winter. I'm not sure of the current status but I was there in late-February and the Tieton nature trail was completely closed east of the suspension bridge. If memory serves me correctly, last year it was open by this time. Check with F+W to be sure.

Try calling Paul @ TAT. He's been in there and can give you beta on good routes and possible first ascents. 907.733.2218 or email info@talkeetnaair.com

one time took me 4 hours of hellone time took me 45 minutes of helland another time 20 minutes of easy skiingjust be aggressive, choose your route through the braids wisely, don't be afraid to back track across braids to find a better alternative, sound out the channels with rocks and probe with ski poles. Don't do anything silly like use ropes or take your backpack off (make sure you unclip the waist belt so you can get out of it quickly.) We crossed 25 or 30 braids, once during a heavy rain in July. We found the best method was to link arms, put your strongest guy upstream and make a bee-line for the other side. Prepare for everything to get soaked. And the water is butt-cold. Parts of my feet were numb for months after the 4 hour crossing.As far as the approach, McGonagall to the base of Tatum then back to Brooks is a sure bet, but depending on conditions, Oastler Pass then straight across can save you a lot of time. But you won't know until you've chosen a pass. Likely you'll meet another party coming out that you can squeeze beta from. Oh yeah and be careful with the pepper spray, it just makes everything taste like a spicy pepper dish to the bears. You're more likely to be eaten alive by mosquitos than bears. And don't listen to that W guy, he doesn't know shit. Enjoy!

I climbed it back in 97. Great little peak. We did a new route on the east face of the NE Peak - the huge steep wall you can see from the hiway. The rock was really good amazingly, but a little vegetated. Route starts in an obvious dihedral on the left side of the face and finishes on an amazing knife edge ridge near the summit - 6 pitches up to 10c. We easily downclimbed off the west side (maybe a little 4th class), so it can be soloed no problem. As for the SW Peak - didn't climb it, but it looks way easier than the NE - would be an easy solo. So no gear needed to just get up the peaks; for our route bring nuts, 2 ea. green - orange alien, 1 ea. #1-#4 camalot. Don't forget your nut tool to clean cracks and a helmet. As for the approach - we went up the drainage to the north of the peak (can't think of the name right now, but has a main trail up it). You can't see the peak, but when it is just SW of you, there is an obvious gully across the creek the leads to the ridge just NE of the peak. Head around the left (South) side of the peak and climb the gully between the two for the easiest access. We went in early June and this was mostly snow, which made it quite easy. I'd recommend this approach over Becky's, as it is a little less devious. Either way it makes for a great day trip with great views and relatively good climbing for that area. Enjoy!