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fleblebleb

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Posts posted by fleblebleb

  1. I'd like to take a mountain-oriented first aid or wilderness first responder course before I get complacent about this stuff once more, could you folks please post the local sources of training that you know about?

     

    I don't want to wait very long - more than a month and I'll likely be too buried in work again. I understand this probably means I'll have to pay $$$, but I'm OK with that.

     

    I haven't looked through the board for earlier posts on the topic and also haven't been here for many months so I have no idea what's been going on. Feel free to throw in some links to other threads.

     

    Thanks, Stefan

  2. I called CPR-Pro at 1-866-208-5324 and ordered four small masks to stash in different places. The total came to US $21 with shipping. This took 5 minutes total. I had no idea what the different models are but just asked the guy on the phone. They don't take credit card orders over the web so calling is a good option.

  3. CPR supplies thread

     

    Nobody at Vantage had a mask or gloves, but there was blood everywhere.

     

    CPR may not be of much help, but there is little else we can do for an unconscious person other than keep the airway open, right? If there isn't a physician on-site then nobody wants the responsibility of stopping before rescue personnel arrive. There isn't much of a decision to be made, and even if there is then chances are the choice is different in the immediate aftermath of an accident than during a bboard discussion.

     

    I just ordered enough masks to permanently attach one into each of my climbing packs. I'll stash a pair of gloves with each mask. Futile or not, with a mask and gloves CPR at least doesn't pose a risk to the people that administer it. I think all of you guys should consider carrying this stuff.

     

    Info about buying this stuff on the CPR supplies thread

  4. cracked said:

    Unfortunately, speaking as a young climber and skier of this generation, Dwayner does nothing but annoy me. It's great that he was an inspiration to some people, but he seems to have lost that gift. My heros are those who don't use juvenile insults to antagonize those they don't agree with. I can't remember a single instance where Dwayner posted somethat that was even remotely interesting or inspiring. Too bad...I guess.

     

    I never claimed to be a good climber, and the fact that Dwayner might be better than I has absolutely no impact on my views of him.

     

    Lay off Dwayner you big little punk.

     

    That goes for the rest of you too madgo_ron.gif

  5. It's illegal for the UW to compete with businesses like SG and VW. It figures, right - UW IMA goes and builds the nicest indoor gym in town using your taxes, then knocks the other climbing gyms out of business...

     

    The argument that the UW rock is free and great for everybody actually argues for its demolition, from the UW standpoint, I think. Ever seen those little signs that say this facility is for students, faculty and staff only? But, demolishing it would make space for about 10-20 cars. It's not going to happen. If the idea ever comes up for real then everybody has to go builder like crazy on campus - that's why the UW rock was originally created, to get rid of the builderers.

  6. Sportivas are awesome if they fit. I have

     

    - Cobras for steep sport and boulders, size 38

    - Katanas for the gym, size 38.5

    - Miuras for cracks, slabs, all-day and all-around, size 39

     

    The Cobras are unlined leather slippers, the Katanas are lined leather velcro slippers, and the Miuras are lined leather lace-ups.

     

    The Miuras are the stiffest, followed by the Katanas, and the Cobras are the softest. The Cobras are the most agressively down-turned, for roofs and such. The Miuras are comparatively mellow that way. The Katanas feel longer and narrower, it's a bit odd - maybe a quality control thing?

     

    The Miuras (being stiffer) are the best edging shoes I've ever had. In addition to these three pairs I've also had Aces (wrong shape for my foot), Acopa Icampas (good value, not high performance) and Boreal Pyros (wrong size, nasty rubber, took them back to REI after using once or twice - hey, that's what the guarantee is for).

     

    The Cobras and Katanas are still on the first sole. The Miuras have been resoled (half-sole) 3-5 times, I've lost count. They were my only shoes for awhile and I always had them resoled with C4, which isn't such a good idea - it wears out too fast. Next time I'm going to have them resoled with the vibram rubber Sportiva uses and see how that works on slabs. I'm also going to stick to vibram on the Katanas, it seems much more durable, but maybe put C4 on the Cobras when the toe wears down.

     

    The Miuras have hardly stretched at all length-wise. Width-wise they have stretched a bit, but that's only an improvement. Get the right length in the store, if that pair is too wide or significantly too narrow then you need another brand (prolly 5.10 or Boreals, respectively?). I think I'm going to get a half-size larger pair next time since I'm mostly using them for multi-pitch stuff now.

     

    The other two pairs haven't stretched yet, but it's too early to tell so I basically don't know. My buddy has Cobras that he's used quite a bit, he tells me they didn't stretch length-wise nearly as much as he expected - whatever that means.

     

    I think the Miuras will only last another couple of resoles. There are big pockets beneath the toes where the shoe is wearing down from the inside. They're my favorite shoes, it's pretty amazing how long they've last considering I used them for everything all the time. They're not even funky yet, the lining material seems nice that way. My old Aces got pretty foul...

     

     

  7. So, you have to work over the weekend, and it's a suck ass job, and you want us to fuck you. I think I've figured this out - you work in a whorehouse, right?

  8. Pshah, you've had your gear for so long you don't even want to admit to it anymore yellaf.gif

     

    Cavey said it well.

     

    Index rack:

    - One full set BD stoppers (kind of suck)

    - Another set of passives (HB offsets through knuckle-sized DMM wallnutz to pink, red tricams and couple of off-fingers/off-hands hexes)

    - Double set of cams from blue Metolius TCU to #2 Camalot, plus bigger as needed

    - Slings slings slings enough slings to tie a horse down

    - Plus biners and lockers and, godsaveusall, maybe some draws?

     

  9. Are the SRSP/Skull Hollow campgrounds going to be chock full this weekend? Anybody have a clue?

     

    The wife and I are driving to California and want to stop at Smith for a night, either Sunday or Monday night. I figure Monday night wouldn't be a problem, but showing up in the early afternoon on Sunday Labor Day weekend might not work out that well?

     

    I'll appreciate any helpful hints, pretty please, and undoubtedly find the necessary teasing and trash talk quite funny as well smirk.gif

  10. Gary_Yngve said:

     

    The biggest skills I've noticed Mountaineers basic students as lacking are:

     

    1) Packing light. The idea that you should pack to survive should shit happen, not pack to be comfortable should shit happen. This mainly just takes time... climbing for a year or two and noticing what you use, don't use.

     

    2) Fast travel through rugged terrain. Bushwhacking, stream crossing, talus hopping... again, this takes time.

     

    3) Being efficient with breaks. Don't put on all your warm crap at the TH because you're cold... you'll have to stop and take it off 15 min later. Plan your breaks... during this break, I will filter water and eat a snack. And my filter and snack are at the top of my pack. I then will be able to go another hour without an extended break. Again, this comes from experience, especially experience with smaller parties.

     

    A year ago you were still working on all these problems. It's been a good summer eh?

     

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