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fleblebleb

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Posts posted by fleblebleb

    Big issues?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    Trail erosion at popular crags?

     

    Stupid @#$% permit system for Stuart range: Can't do permit lottery Friday night after leaving work, can't do permit lottery Saturday morning before leaving trailhead. This at the one place where the weather is most predictable.

    [TR] The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!- Easy Route 9/6/2004

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    I think it sounds like they are talking about the gulley to the northeast of pineapple pass which is not necessary to rappel.

     

    Nope, not that - rap anchors higher up on the route.

     

    I was there with enem, we weren't exactly impressed with that party of three.

     

    They dislodged a cantelope-sized rock when throwing rap ropes, it missed us by a yard or two. This was completely unnecessary, a wait of another 3-5 minutes would have had us clear out of the way.

     

    We also watched them cut the anchors, although we thought they were just replacing old slings. But... the slings were in fine shape, I had just checked them before rapping.

     

    So, yup, I think those guys are total tools. There were plenty of inexperienced folks there that day - one party had an anchor consisting of a dead tree clipped to a gear loop - but those guys had well worn gear and knew how to use it. No excuse, just bad style and lousy ethics. Feel free to move this thread to spray too, whatever grin.gif

    Yos Sept/Oct

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    I was there that time last year and it didn't seem like much trouble finding a partner... I'd like to find someone to ride with though...

     

    I don't know if I can pull out in mid-Sept, I think it will have to be the last week/first week of Oct.

    Yos Sept/Oct

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    So, who's going to the valley in late September through early October? I want to go... I'm trying to piece it together... put in a reply post if you're going and don't mind the world knowing about it grin.gif

    Yet another Lib Ridge accident

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    On a route like liberty wouldnt it be better to travel unroped in poor conditions if you are not going to use fixed protection? It seems that a fall that is not self-arrested is just going to pull your partner down with you.
    You said something that I was afraid to say, but I have to agree. Sometimes though you get past a hard part, the slope eases off, and you let down your guard and decide not to put another picket in. But with more steepness coming up you stay roped. I can totally see how it could have happened. All you can do on routes like this is to never let down your guard.

    What route is it better to travel roped w/o pro?

     

    Two weeks ago I was hit by an ice chunk, swept off the slope and would have fallen several hundred feet if I hadn't been roped to wayne1112, whose self-belay held. There was no pro. I'll post the story eventually. Meanwhile drink a brew bigdrink.gif for our buddy, who I heard just fractured a wrist in a non-climbing accident.

     

    Sorry about the off-topic stuff. But, there are no rules.

    What can I do to avoid/minimize accidents?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    • Listen to that little voice in your head. It's wise. I've turned around on otherwise perfect days because of an overwhelming feeling of dread.

     

    Huh, I think I recall turning around on an otherwise perfect day because of an overwhelming desire for pancakes. Wise little voice in stomach grin.gif

     

    Seriously though, that was a good list up there.

    Liberty Ridge Deaths

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Breez, get a copy of Accidents in North American Mountaineering or browse in the bookstore. It's good to skim through an issue semi-regularly. Sobering, sort of. The stuff in there is basically what accident threads on cc.com eventually become, only condensed to a minimum. Much better signal-to-noise ratio. That said, the accident discussions here are important, at least to me.

    Crampons for Tele boots?

    in the *freshiezone*

    Posted

    I have the Garmont synergy boots, I believe they're made with the same mold.

     

    My two pairs of Stubais don't fit because the front crampon attachment is too narrow for the duckbills. I just borrowed a pair of sabretooths, they fit perfectly. The wide Grivels should also fit, but I haven't tried those.

    Recent Sahale Reports?

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    I was there yesterday. The weather crapped out and we bailed from our ski plans madgo_ron.gif

     

    The road is closed at milepost 21 and will be for awhile - it's completely cut apart in multiple places in the two remaining miles.

     

    The slabby cliff bands above the valley bottom are somewhat melted out but you can probably still go up that way without major difficulty.

     

    There was a nice coating of fresh starting at ca. 5500'.

    Integral Design's Primaloft Bags - Pros/Cons?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I've got one of those things. I'll spout some nonsense for you, no problem grin.gif

     

    My bag has the epic cover. It tears somewhat easily. Just remember to take your crampons off.

     

    Water repellency is OK. Forget about standing water, you need a full-on hardshell to beat that. I use a bivi bag when concerned about things getting wet.

     

    One thing I've really liked about this bag is that I never notice whether it's damp or dry until I start checking for it. Same thing with my primaloft jacket, works in a downpour despite not being "waterproof" at all. Cool.

     

    I think Fear might be onto something with the compression comment. I use a very large pack for most overnight trips, but the sleeping bag often takes almost half the space - so I hardly ever compress it much.

     

    I haven't noticed a loft decrease after two years of sporadic use, but I do most stuff in a day and I use my grunge bag for car-camping and trailhead bivis.

     

    I bought mine in a hurry and was a little annoyed that the only one available was the wide version. Then later I realized I can combine the primaloft bag with a superlight downbag for an arctic-worthy system, and the primaloft will suck moisture away from the down. Or body heat pumps it outwards or whatever.

     

    I'd tell you something negative about it, except I guess I'm pretty much an all-around happy buyer. The way the bag deals with moisture outweighs the weight and volume gains you'd get with a down bag. A superlight downbag like one of those Western Mountaineering bags Jim sells would be quite a bit lighter and smaller though.

     

    I sleep warm, YMMV.

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