[Worst picture taken OF you.]

Took it myself, in a storm on the summit of Rainier:

 

 

 

[[TR] Aasgard Pass Sentinel- 9/12/2004]

Cool post too! I've never heard of this climb but it sounds (and looks!) really neat - man it would be nice to see more idea TRs like this one.

[Advice for homeowners]

Well, if only all of us were so lucky to live at your house

[INTEL - things not going well in Iraq]

Hah-haha, there is a quote in there by some Republican lamenting money not being spent fast enough

[Free Advice]

I better not hear you bitching about user fees

 

Better not, or else, right?

[there is a conspiracy --BWAHAHHAHA]

Heeheehee, I can't possibly leave this clowny thread without my avatar pic on it somewhere.

[Climbing Site North Willamette Valley]

Huh, so getting cascadeclimbered is a new phenomenon kind of like getting slashdotted, no? Whodathunkit?

[Bad Style]

Surprising amount of scrutiny. I wrote the TR because I like reading TR's occasionally on this site and have hooked up with some good climbing partners here, and thought I'd contribute something back. As for the TR, I wrote it more to be an entertaining yarn of how we made some mistakes and paid for them. The 20/15 hindsight kicked in pretty quickly afterward. My partners and I learned alot from this trip and likely won't make the same mistakes twice, unless we go insane. Then we probably would.

And rest assured, I'm not breeding. Kids scare me. Small hands and what not.

 

Dude, I don't care what mistakes you made on that climb. It sounds like your execution went fine given some lack of forethought. I bet your planning will be fairly bulletproof for the next few trips.

 

But! If I run into you sometime then I'm buying you a beer for the week of at-work entertainment you provided with the TR and subsequent firestorm

 

Keep'em coming, just don't get yourself hurt alright?

[Snow pickets]

The Yates are not nearly as strong as the MSR. I'd want to have at least one MSR on my pack for crevasse rescue.

 

Huh? I mean, HUH? What sort of snowpack are you placing your pickets in? Gleaming blue snowpack?

 

Proud owner of a couple of those Yateses

 

It doesn't matter one bit what type you get, so just pick the prettiest colors. Mine are orange! They brighten up the gear collection quite a bit, especially since they never leave the house.

 

If you really have to be anal about it, the T shape is classic and does the job, the L shape has a packing benefit and packs the snow diagonally outwards which supposedly helps (but your buddies will place the picket backwards so nevermind), and the guards on the top of the picket actually make it live longer but only if you're hung up on not tearing apart the rest of the gear. Oh, and did I mention the pretty colors? Cost more though...

[Cycling vs Running]

Anybody have an opinion on rollerblading? I started blading to the bus a couple of weeks ago, have no idea if it will keep me fit. Am fairly certain it will keep me covered in scabs though

[[TR] Prusik Peak - West Ridge 9/12/2004]

Let's guess the rest of your gear sizes

 

#6 BD stopper

yellow TCU

#.75 camalot

#1 camalot

 

Did I get it right?

[lazy idiots]

Perhaps superhero of campus instead?

 

He's already the ccp. What more could he want?

 

Of course, duh. Campus cleanup perpetrated in official capacity, no less.

[Big issues?]

Right, work is definitely a big issue.

[Big issues?]

Recipe for adequate, bomber toprope belay: Clip left bolt with draw. Clip right bolt with draw. Magic trick: Oppose gates. Magic magic trick: Use those nifty locking biners.

 

Gate orientation when clipping the lower bolts is not much more complicated. On the whole, leading on bolts *is* a rather trivial exercise. Cleaning the anchors is far more dangerous.

 

Anyways, enough thread derailment.

[Big issues?]

I don't really buy that. Gym-to-crag is a pretty simple transition safety-wise.

 

You're way off-base here, man.

 

Why? You know how to back-thread, tie your knot and belay. A gym climber going cragging doesn't have to lead, or clean the anchors. Learning how to lead on bolts is a rather trivial exercise as well.

[Grip tape for ice tools?]

Try wrapping the tool shafts with hockey tape. Just don't get the tape wet and then plunge the spike into snow.

[[TR] The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!- Easy Route 9/6/2004]

Don't take my word for it but I think those bastards may have used 8 squares of toilet paper down at the restroom w/o replacing it too. What, do they think paper grows on trees? Er, oh wait, it does.

 

Ah, your stormtrooper would have been funnier here.

[Big issues?]

I don't really buy that. Gym-to-crag is a pretty simple transition safety-wise. TR-to-lead and sport-to-trad are far harder, and getting into alpine is the really dangerous bit.

[lazy idiots]

Oh, don't worry, this is already taken care of, at least on campus. Gary always has his green graduation cape close by, and two of his office mates set up a sound system with a web front end to supply the theme music.

 

Perhaps superhero of campus instead?

[lazy idiots]

That stormtrooper seems ready to keep it up all night.

[May I see your papers?]

Since I have no clue what the particulars of the case are, I don't feel qualified to get my panties in a bunch.

 

You'd have to feel qualified to get your panties off Greg_W's head first anyway.

[lazy idiots]

I was walking to the lab today and behind the library was a twelve-foot-wide walkway. A large downed branch lay across the whole walkway. I watched multiple pedestrians step over the limbs and two bicyclists dismount their bikes and walk around.

 

I walked up to the branch and shoved it to the side, removing the obstacle from the walkway.

 

Did you adopt a suitably self-righteous attitude? Reap the admiration of any fair ladies? Did the campus maintenance workers' union come after you with a vengeance?

[[TR] The Tooth - Someone cut a rap anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!- Easy Route 9/6/2004]

so the cut a rap anchor, not ethnics I think anyone here agrees with but it is an alpine climb so you should be prepared to make your own rap anchor, no?

 

As Arnold says "Stop Whining"

 

Oh, I normally carry a roll of about nine dozen new rap rings, but you don't need any new webbing because you can just tie back together the tat left over when the previous set of rap rings was nicked. It's also very handy to have that stuff in place because it helps finding the location for your new anchor.

[lazy idiots]

If you can keep that up for 8 hours I might give you a job.

 

[Bibler i-tent alternatives?]

Fine, screw the other thread

 

It seems the epic tent would make a lighter, less bulky alternative to two bivi bags. That is cool. Who wants to wait out a rainy day in bivi bag

 

But, from what I've seen of silnylon (I have a silponcho) it would be very important to seam-seal carefully. I don't know if the Firstlight is factory seam-sealed.