willstrickland

GTG Giggling at The Guys Girls in Tight Gorts? Good To Go? Gucci To Gianni? Grabbin the goods? Guzzling the gimlets? WTF?

And the NPS knows exactly where the fixed ropes on the approach to Leaning Tower, Lurking Fear/West Face, on the East ledges raps, on the Half Dome slabs approach, and to Heart Ledges are, yet they choose to leave them in place because they are frequently used by climbers, the guide company, and YOSAR. The rangers there told me it was a "spirit of the law" versus "letter of the law" situation, and that if you are fixing on a route, 24 hours is the guideline but they aren't going to give you flack if you decide to take a rest day after fixing, or it rains for a few days or whatever. The spirit of the law is to prevent abuse of the priviledge of fixing lines. On heavily used spots like these, I don't think it's an issue. Whether the traffic this route will see justifies fixed lines remains to be seen. Being a new route, I don't see how it could justify them, but if these guys are going to be guiding it 3 times a week, maybe it does. The "eyesore/wilderness experience" argument could be valid. The "lowering the bar/luring gumbies onto the route" argument is weak. Just MHO.

I prefer Maxim Tech cord a 5.5mil (which is also the same thing as BD Gemini 2...not to be confused with the original Gemini cord, which was a diff material). The relative strengths of common cordage materials will probably surprise you. Moyer did extensive testing several years ago. Here's a link to his site, look under the older tests section for a report called "Comparative Testing of High Strength Cord". Fish also has a copy of the results on his site somewhere. http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/

It was supposed to hit 102F in PDX today. I imagine the south side is a big, slushy, bowling alley.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm looking, and the replaceable batts is what's holding me back right now. I'd really prefer to have one that just takes AAs, but I love the Mac interface. I can imagine a spare li-ion recharagable is gonna be pricy. I keep hoping Apple will reca-nize, and represent for all the playas in the street. Yo Steve....two words holmes: Doubleayes Beyotch!!

Sept 35th? Muffy lives outside the space-time continuum .

EDITED to remove the picture of me in my big wall thong with built-in double rack because people started whining.

"Would you drive any better with that cell phone stuck up your ass?" "Hang up and drive" "Your wife says hi...Your daughter says OOOHHH OOOOHH!" "If guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns"

A "Mountie-load" of climbers.

Mountain Gear has a bunch of Anasazi slippers for $60. These are the new blue synthetic leather ones, not the red mocasyms...although it's the same shoe with less stretch. They are "seconds" because 5.10 forgot to sew on the second pull-on loop on the heel (so there is only one loop on the heel instead of two). They have every size in stock from a 3 to a 13 with the exception of 5.5 I just picked up a couple of pairs Here's a link: Anasazi Slipper seconds

One more indication that Kerry is tougher than Bush: The Associated Press Updated: 6:22 p.m. ET May 22, 2004CRAWFORD, Texas - President Bush suffered cuts and bruises early Saturday afternoon when he fell while mountain biking on his ranch, White House spokesman Trent Duffy said. Bush was on the 16th mile of a 17-mile ride when he fell, Duffy said. “He had minor abrasions and scratches on his chin, upper lip, nose, right hand and both knees,” Duffy said. Bush was wearing his bike helmet and a mouth guard when the mishap occurred. Duffy said he didn’t know exactly how the accident happened. “It’s been raining a lot and the topsoil is loose,” the spokesman said. “You know this president. He likes to go all out. Suffice it to say he wasn’t whistling show tunes.” Earlier this month, Democratic presidential candidate John Kerry took a spill from his bicycle while riding with Secret Service agents through Concord, N.H., about 18 miles north of Boston. Kerry fell when his bike hit a patch of sand. He was not injured.

Lumberg Says

Yes it is. If we made it easier for everyone there would be a fucking wheelchair ramp on el cap by now. Ooooh, can we have a wheelchair ramp to the top of the Ice Cliff glacier too while we're at it? Hmm, does that also apply to routes as well, or is the GP exempt from being climbed "on its terms". Hey, maybe I'll see ya there! Layton:

I think Dane is justifiably upset because those responsible for the actions that EVERYONE HERE has agreed are unacceptable...i.e. the route name grafitti and bolt-on holds, do not acknowledge that there is anything wrong those actions. This, IMO, is the very root of the problem. Regardless of how you feel about retro-bolting, convienience bolting, glue-reinforcement of suspect flakes, or chipping, I think 99% of the climbing community would agree that there is no place for bolted on gym holds or river rocks, nor graffitti at the crags. I may be wrong about that, but all the climbers I know would view these actions as unacceptable. What will it take for those reposnsible to recognize that these actions are unacceptable? Bolt wars ARE lame. We could also have a long discussion on who actually starts the bolt war...the person who places it or the person who removes it. In retro-jobs you probably know where I stand. But that is another issue for another time. I personally do not support convenience retro-bolting for "leading" when it is easily TR'ed. But that is my own opinion and I don't make any claim that the majority feel this way (unfortunately, IMO). I ask you this: How many beginners and fairly new climbers end up climbing in a place like this? What impression do these actions give to them as far as what is the "standard" and what is acceptable. These practices (bolted on holds, grafitti, chipping), regardless of whether you embrace them or loathe them, ARE out of the ordinary and not generally accepted. The first step in remedying this situation is an acceptance of that fact by those responsible.

"Is this skinstore dot com?" "Yes sir, how may I help you" "I'm wondering if you might have a product to help with my condition." "What type of product are you looking for sir?" "Well to treat my condition." "and what condition is that?" "Well I have this...uh, well. Um, well my genetalia is discolored" ----silence from other end---- "I know this is unusual and I don't mean to make you uncomfortable, but this is really an embarassing condition." "Yes sir, I don't know that we have anything for a condition like that." "Well, my girlfriend is really distrubed by the color. Do you think some kind of make-up would work?" "Sir I'm not really comfortable talking about this" "Yes ma'am, and my girlfriend isn't comfortable looking at my HC when it's all spotted and purple" ----silence---- "Do you sell any kind of cosmetics formulated specifically for sensitive genetalia?" "Sir I would recommend you see your doctor, I don't think I can help you." "But my doctor is out of town, my girlfriend likes it with the lights on, and I can't plant my H-C until I take care of this problem. I'm getting a GU back-up" "Sir I am ending this phone call" "Wait! Before you go..." "Yes sir?" "show me them tittayz, 'cause I'm RICK JAMES BITCH!!!"

That is mostly correct. The Mega and Cliff are built on the same last (RN50), but the Mythos last(RN25) is slightly more rounded than the Focus last(PN25). It's very hard to compare fit between the Mythos and Focus though, because the Focus will barely stretch at all (it's lined) and the Mythos stretches ALOT. I can't get Mythos to fit me right, but the Focus does pretty well. If they stood up to resoling better, I'd be loading up on the Focus right now.

I'll take this one step further. I see alot of people who just tie a quick overhand and clip it to a gear loop. I always clip it to my belay or tie-in loop. Then untie, thread, re-tie, then unclip the bight. If for some reason your connection to the anchor failed...or even the anchor itself failed, while you were untying/threading/retying, your ass would be saved. If it's clipped to your gear loop...splat. Also, I'm with Dru on the personal anchor sitchmo. I do, however, still tie into two bolt anchors with an atomic clip (aka 2 leg bowline on a bight) if I'm swinging leads on a long multi-pitch. I also clove into the anchor with the rope while using the daisy. Snowbyrd, I would pick up a rope, John Long's "Climbing Anchors" book, a couple of over the shoulder sewn slings (which will serve multiple purposes such as a "personal anchor", rigging toprope anchors, extendable quickdraw, etc), and some 1" tubular webbing which can serve almost any purpose under the sun...you can rig TR anchors with it, tie it into slings, tie it into a makeshift harness, use it for raps, and on and on.

Thanks Matt. I believe those are actually relevant reasons to question the establishment of this area as designated wilderness...as opposed to the deranged musings above. Sailboi, don't misunderestimate me , I'm neither for ,nor against, this proposal. I want answers to the revelant questions such as Matt posed. I believe there is reason to oppose this, but not those you cite. Adopting the rightwing extremist tripe that you cite as the reasons for your opposition, only hurts your (i.e. anyone who jumps on this landgrab/taxrolls/evils of the ESA bandwagon) credibility among moderates.

Focus are great....until you re-sole. The midsole is some type of shitty bonded paperboard, and once they are re-soled, they lose alot of stiffness. The rest of the shoe is made pretty well (leather/lining/etc), which makes me wonder WTF Sportiva was thinking the shitty midsole. With the original sole, they are good crack shoes, and great edging shoes. Megas are essentially the same shoe in a high-top.

Tweave is a manufacturer, not a fabric. You are probably talking about Tweave's Durastretch used in a few Arc'teryx garments (Gamma LT), or their Durastretch light, used in the Switchback pant. (guess who's been looking at new 3 season softshells? )

But Sailboi, I am not looking for more hyperbolic quotes and certainly not 9000 pages of them, I am looking for a straightforward answer to the question(s) I posed. I do, however, find it slightly ironic that the "Shattered Dreams" document you link was produced by the John P. McGovern MD Center for Environmental and Regulatory Affairs...which advocates "free market solutions to today's environmental challenges". I assume you also found this document at Miss Smithson's site? Funny how someone like Miss Smithson supports free markets when it suits her agenda, but opposes free trade in her rant-letter from your original post. I say again: What percent of the proposed Wild Sky wilderness is privately held, and how much tax revenue does it generate? Certainly a better plan would be to log the shit out of it, so that we can continue to subsidize the logging industry...that will certainly lower our tax burden God forbid the timber industry be subjected to some downsizing and have to compete on the "free market".

It's up northeast of Green Peter lake. I believe that is "Rocky Top", but it could be on the ridge a little farther north/east from there, or even in the drainage of Four Bit Cr. (which is a trib to Quartzite). Shouldn't be too hard to locate. Find a map with the USFS roads on it and find it. Or just call or e-mail the dude.

Here is what I consider a legitimate question: What portion of the proposed Wild Sky wilderness area is currently public land, and what portion (percentage wise) is privately held? Similarly, what is the total tax revenue from that privately held land? This nutjob hyperbolist "Miss Julie Kay Smithson", who's letter you hold up as an example, cites removing land from the tax rolls on several occasions as a reason for her opposition. To my knowledge, areas designated wilderness are typically public lands with perhaps a few small privately held parcels. They aren't exactly generating any appreciable amount of tax income from property taxes. Now I'm sure Miss Smithson would rather those lands be developed, mined, drilled, cut, and sold to home developers to lower her tax bill; but I'm not sure we would all agree. Particularly when the current pattern of development is unmitigated urban sprawl (see Phoenix, Las Vegas, or Atlanta for prime examples). I sympathize with the Dosewallips Rd issue, and I actually did write a letter in support of repairing the road. I also routinely deal with disingenous, fringe, extremist, environmentalist crusaders who use frivolous lawsuits as a delaying and harrassement tactic when they don't agree with an issue. Nevertheless, if you are going to blindly oppose every issue on the slippery slope argument, you are no better than they are. Why would you even quote such a Limbaugh-wannabe jackass like " Miss Mary Kay Truckdriver" if you are trying to win people to your side?

Looks fantastic! Very impressive layout, photos, & breadth of content. Congrats on a fine first issue.