willstrickland

Ho mahn, so beautiful, yet so chossy. Nice work fellas.

Dastardly isn't particularly hard for 5.9 You boys just need to get out and live a little. It'd be 5.8 at Index...and 11b at Squamish ;^)

Yep, Scott is right. I was talking about the Deep south Climbers Companion or whatever it was called(my copy is sitting in my dad's place in Athens,GA not exactly handy for reference here in SoCal). It was what then became the DCA, Watford was a coauthor of DSCC and sole author of DCA as I recall.

That's one helluva trip!

The original Dixie Cragger's Atlas (single vol) was the source of much frustration and cursing for me any my buddies as n00bs. The info is strangely vague and lacking for how verbose some of the descriptions were. A good example is Heaven and Hell at Tallulah, a 2 pitch line with a fairly serious "R" rated first pitch, but the guide doesn't give individual pitch ratings. The route is 12a, but with only the guide you'd have no idea if the R section was on 5.12 ground or 5.6 ground (p1 is 5.10R for the curious). For Yonah, it is horrible outdated because at the time it came out, you could still drive the road to the top. At some point a gated community acquired some property and the road closed (I found this out the hard way many years ago on a brief visit back to GA to see the folks), no idea on current access. The two-vol DCA seemed a bit better, but I don't have tons of hands-on use of it as I'd already moved west when it came out. I think Chris wrote that one solo, where the first edition was with Rob as co-author. For the OP, Yonah is good stone, but not a particularly good climbing area unless you're into easy low angle slab. Tallulah Gorge is the premier climbing in North GA, multipitch trad lines on bullet quartzite. The main area bakes in the sun, and the quantity of routes isn't extensive, but the quality is pretty high. The Lost Wall/Rocktown combo (along with several caves, if you're into caving) on Pigeon Mtn near Lafayette is pretty choice. Great bouldering, a good quantity of trad cragging at a wide range of difficulties (good spread between 5.6-5.12), free camping, ripe persimmons in early fall. The real goods for a North GA climber through are in TN, AL, and NC. The T-Wall and HP40 are still two of my favorite areas. A little further afield, the NRG is as good as any cragging in North America in my book.

This is a fantastic route, and one of the better slab routes I've ever done. I think Fern linked p1&2 when we did it with a 70m and a little simul climbing. Hopefully one day I can get back up to D-town, Matt is a great host and tour guide.

How come people keep talking about "soloing" a 22' boulder problem?

Sorry boys, the whiners were via personal e-mail. Seems that in their opinion the TR was not worthy of posting since I ultimately failed to send in the TR and have an overly large ego. So I killed it. There's plenty of TRs here though, you can go read the 400th one about the Dissapointment Cleaver instead.

Watts was the man, but if you didn't send, doesn't really count. Hell, I've "lead" the thing...it was 5.10 C1+ for me. But you do a great disservice to Mike Shaeffer, who got the second redpoint, by leaving him off your list. Skinner did not climb the full line, detouring around some .11 in the upper half...survey says, no send or send of easier variation at best. IMO, your list should go something like: Skinner: freed cruxes, failed to redpoint. Watts: freed cruxes, failed to redpoint. Hugh Herr: Sent, but controversy over prosthetic feet used. Shaeffer: First send with no controvesy.

Feelgood had some pretty shitty looking hardware when we looked at it years ago (or was that Green Dragon?). I've done both the Apron Jam and the 4th class corner to the left to get to Mr Nat. Both have their merits (Apron Jam is scary as hell with only one 4" piece but fun if you take enough gear and aren't effectively soloing). However you get there, Mr. Natural is probably the best fingercrack of the grade I've done anywhere. Bony Fingers at the Portal is close though.

It's a good tool, when used sparingly. I go through 2-4 hangboard cycles per year, always with 2 full days rest between and with NO other climbing/climbing training aside from warmup and cooldown (don't consider cardio or core work "climbing training", just stuff that stresses fingers/shoulder/back). I do between 8-12 workouts in a cycle and just completed my last cycle on Sat. Gains are usually about 5lb per week on each grip and usually about 50lb for the cycle. Returning to the board after a full training cycle, I have been starting with what I'd used in workout#3 from the previous cycle. SO expect to lose some pure strength as you train through power, PE, and rest phases. I've found that less volume (literally the only climbing related thing I do during my hangboard phase is hangboard) is crucial for proper recovery and injury avoidance. I might go solo 5.easys or something on an off day, but nothing resembling training. My workout is roughly the same, the grips and weights will change, but the bulk is this: 4-8 grip positions, 1 set for each grip. A set consists of 5 repetitions of 10sec hang/5 sec rest. Two minutes rest between sets. I've also done it multiple sets for each grip, gradually increasing the weight for each set, usuing 7x 7sec on/3sec off, then 6x 7/3, then 5x 7/3. these days I'm back on the 1 set of 10/5. Works great, 50lb stronger over this cycle and no nagging bodyparts. I can't take any credit for this workout, it is almost verbatim from Mike Anderson's "Making of a RockProdigy" training article. Which, btw, is the best short piece on climbing training I've seen.

Hard routes at Ozone is an oxymoron.

Ahh, got ya. Figured maybe I'd just overlooked stuff, never climbed there alot. Yeah, did Wrong Gull a long time ago..2001 maybe?

Damn son. Put some carriage returns between those side-by-side pics and you might be able to actually read this thread.

Really? What else is there? Say real 5.10 or harder (i.e. not a .10c stemming route with a 10' 5.7 wide section or an overrated 5.8 pitch that people call 5.10 cause they don't know how to climb wide cracks.) Hit me with a tick list.