Marty

Lovely site. More photos please and where the hell is Sultan, WA?

Terminal, Where is the Wallowas and is there rock climbing there too in the summer? If so then what type of stone?

got it Dr E. Do we ever climb together?

12-9-2001 Banks Lake, There was no ice at Banks yesterday.

A person that I know has equipped a lot of routes at Skaha has had this same problem of hangar theft and route chopping. He tried the standard Petzl type glue ins but you can turn them out with a long bar. His expensive solution was a glue in "U" where the two legs of the "U" were glued into the rock (Check out the anchors on "Churning in the Wake" at Smith Rock). You can't turn this anchor and you have to hack saw the two legs to get it out of the rock. His cheap solution was to purchase a box of stainless steel wedge anchors. He then boiled them in water till the oil was no longer coating the surface of the stainless steel. He then placed them into the rock, and used the heavy duty lock tight on the nut. When the route terrorist arrives with his wratchet wrench, the bolt will only spin, (the nut and shaft as one, spinning inside the cone) when he/she tries to remove the hangar. Of course you can hack saw this set up too but its going to be difficult (Knuckle busting hopefully). I've climbed at Vantage and find it to be some of the best moderate sport climbing in the Northwest. It would be heroic for someone to step up and glue in the bolts or somehow remedy the situation.

Freak, (Is this Nick Rosser) Turn in on the road to the Golf course but take a left instead of going to the course. Skirt the side of the golf course till it ends. You'll be at an old cattle loading zone or something like that. Park there and walk strait up the hill in a pseudo gully. On the left there are some obvious routes on the slabs but continue to the top of the hill where the boulder rests. It actually faces west. Hope that helps. Also go check out the boulders (you'll see chalk on a lot of the problems) in the rocks of Gibralter medow. There's some good problems there too. Most of the bouldering is unexplored there so bring brushes and who knows what you'll find. Good Luck.

So Perk, Are you in Pullman or Seattle these days? We haven't seen you around for a while (not at Riggins or the Creek or anything)so are you not climbing or just in love these days? As for the Paluse, I quit puttin routes up there. That dust on the basalt is impossible to clean up. When you brush it, it just billows up and sits itself right back on the rock. It's a shame since those routes would be many and good to climb. Check out my website. I just put a bunch of new photos up. They are slow to load but I think they will intrest you. Got a bunch from Europe and stuff too now. Check it out and tell me how long it takes to load on your machine.

I think I'm guilty too, because this one time, at climbing camp, I tried this route over and over cause I just kept falling, and I left black spots on the route from my shoes.

Didn't know that. I talked to him at Smith about a year ago and he said he was hooked up with some chick. Didn't know it was that serious though. I'll pass the news on. Good to know Andy can find love. There's hope for us all now. P.S. This isn't Andy is it?

A web page with photos, new ascents, and guide book info for the rockclimbing venues around Spokane. web page [ 11-10-2001: Message edited by: Marty ]

Kevin, I think you mean Post Falls. Go to www.inlandnwclimb.homestead.com/inlandnwclimb.html (excuse the long address but its a free site) and click on the news button. I arrived just after it happened. Marty

Is the hanger still on that chunk of rock? If so could you guys mail it to Spokane cause we'll use it here. Thanks, Marty