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MtnHigh

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Everything posted by MtnHigh

  1. Meals gotta be simple on the mountain. Who wants to deal with a gazillion ingredients. I made these on Denali this season. Easy to pack, easy to prepare. All were a big hit. Tuna N Rice -Rice 1 cup/hungry climber -Tuna 3-6 oz/hungry climber (tuna is now available in bags, much better than cans) -Seasoning: either salt, soy sauce, or Nature's Seasoning Cook the rice, throw in the tuna at the end Meat N Potatoes -Potato flakes 1 cup/hungry climber -Summer Sausage 3-6 oz/hungry climber(dice it up) Cook the spuds and throw in the sausage at the end Veggie Soup -Ramon 1-2 bags/hungry climber -Veggies Either F-D or fresh brocolli, carrots, onions
  2. Anyone been up or had a look at Adams Glacier within the past week?
  3. The Good: Mt Baker/Shuksan (Bellingham, Wa) Bob's Burgers (Glacier, Wa) Milano's (italian) Mt Hood (Sandy, Or) Calamity Janes (burgers) The Bad: Mt Hood (Gov't Camp) Huckleberry Inn Greasy food, ignorate service The Ugly: My kitchen, Good food, homemade beer, terrible service
  4. Hey Anna, ole Drul ain't gonna broaden anything but it waistline. If the east Gorge heat is burnin ya up bring those jets over here from some cooling.
  5. DH, if you're crapin 20 times a day how the hell you ever top'ed out or summited anything????? I for one would never belay you thinking that ole' Dennis may just let loose any minute now. Or just follow the brown streak on the snow. DH has wanded the route to the summit with his feces. My reconmendation for you is Depends and bowling.
  6. Yo RURP-ture head, I'm with you on other areas of cc in terms on content. Folks shouldn't spray a bunch of none climbing crap in the Climber's Board or Route Report areas of cc. However, this is the Spray section. Who gives a rats ass if it's climbing related or not. Yo DH, this topic sucks. Don't mix WWF and the Pope. Ya got to do better than this. I know you can. Now let me get back to that case of PBR and COPs on FOX.
  7. I was 16, she was 15. It was in a tent at a lake near my home. Neither of us knew anything, but we knew this was good shit.
  8. ANWR is the perfect battleground between environmentalist and the pro-development groups. It is unfortunate for the environmentalists that a conservative administration is in the White House and both US congressional bodies are Republican controlled. Something to understand: The potential amount of crude that ANWR can produce will hardly put a dent in the US appetite for oil. With or without ANWR oil, the US will still import the majority of it's oil from abroad. The US will suck AK dry of all it's oil with hardly a concern for the impact. You have to ask yourself what is the advantage of it all? Is it really worth the time, money and potential risks.
  9. Not only are the Rainier feds lurking behind every tree, bolder and hut, but now they have infiltrated cc. What's our world coming to
  10. Using the correct size bag is important. If the bag is too small and you fill it to the rim, zipping it shut cleanly is a difficult operation. You wind up with warm goo ozzing out the top. Very messy. Having an accurate aim is important. If the head of your newly created torpedo folds over the top of the bag you really have a problem. Now you're faced with transfering the torpedo from the snow into the bag using available mechanical devices. Now you've messed up more than just the bag. My last bit of advise on this topic is not to eat too much freeze-dried food on your climbing adventures. For many of us freeze-dried food transforms our neatly created torpedos into unconsolidated blobs. Management of unconsolidated material in a zip-lock bag can be very difficult. Viva la blue bag
  11. Originally posted by Dru: The North Face of Shuksan was "put up" in 1923. Who taught you climber slang, stranger? I think the North Face of Shuksan was put up much earily than the 20th century. Over 10 million year ago the Juan de Fuca plate started moving east under the Cascadian plate. The result was a buckling action on the western edge of the Cascadian plate and hence, Shuksan was 'put up'.
  12. MtnHigh

    Mt Jeff TR

    Iain, diddo, it was a great climb. The route offers a variety of challenges. We'll have to hook up again this season. First my heels need to recover. I really messed them up bad. I'm still limpin' around.
  13. MtnHigh

    Mt Jeff TR

    Give Jefferson a gold star Climbed Jeff Park Gl route 7/7. The glacier, bergschrund crossing and the knife edge ridge are in very good condition. Beyond the ridge including the Pinnacle the snow surface is soft, but in general very doable. Descending the same route cuts a lot of time. Round trip from 6400' camp was just under 9 hours. Lucky for us the rain started as we were driving down the FS road. There was a group of 5 tele-heads just breaking camp as we arrived on Sat. They summited via JPG on 7/5. They were the only people we saw in two days on the mountain. Ah, peace and solituted on a PNW moutain. It's getting rare.
  14. Cheryl I've hiked every trail in the Gorge many times over and here are my favorites. Munra Point: It's short but very interesting if you like to mix easy scrambling in your hikes. Gains about 1800' in 1.5 miles. Great views west down the Columbia. Multnomah Creek: Once you get above the Mult Falls overlook the scenery is wonderful and the crowds disappear. It also has a great finish. Hike it to the top of Larch Mtn by linking with the Oneonta trail. Mt. Defiance: Lots of elevation gain, good trail, great for aerobic minded hikers. Fill the pack with 4 gallons of water and have a ball. Get William L. Sullivan's '100 Hikes in NOrthwest Oregon'. It lists them all.
  15. A bong hit should alter the headly music channel
  16. Guess it's time to flip the calendar from June to July. I'll be on Jeff Sat/Sun 7/6-7. Look for the post in the Oregon Cascades section Sun night.
  17. I'm heading for Jeff on Sat 7/8. Gonna be doing Jeff Park Glacier and the west side of the Pinnacle. I'll let ya know how it goes. Until then I got a case of PBR and a box of 30-30's to polish off.
  18. If you are not comfortable with walking down steep snow two ropes are handy for rapping the couloir. Less stations to set up. Lots of webbing hanging from boths sides of the walls. One rope is suffient on the ridge, so leave the second rope at the start of the west ridge proper. Half of the ridge is 4th classish, so simul downclimbing works best on the moderate terrain. Other than that there's 2 or 3 pitches to rap on the ridge.
  19. Calling all Portland wankers. Is there interest in a gathering of the minds for Tuesday night? My wrists need a workout I'll be drinking regardless by 8 after we get our fill of after work hwy noise cracks and broken glass smears at Rocky Butte.
  20. Hey Harmon if ya don't have anything positive to contribute stay the hell away. Nobody wants to read your negitive crap. Your posts are a waste of space on everyone's monitor.
  21. I just returned from the Alaska Range/Talkeetna and experienced similar delays with the air taxi service we used. However, I am in complete agreement with how the Talkeetna based air taxi services operate. The air taxi services in Talkeetna are like any other commercial business. They got to make a little money and do it within a short business season. Efficently operating their planes by flying scheduled tourists in and out helps them 'meet the bottom line'. Doug Geeting will extend himself to get climbers in and out of the mountains. We waited for a day and a half to get flown in with TAT due to weather. It was not until Geeting boldly landed on the glacier under very limited visabilty conditions that the other air taxi services were compled to give it a go themselves. Doug paved the way. When flying back to Talkeetna coordinate with Lisa or whoever the base camp manager is at the time to fly out first thing the next morning. You don't see any tourists on the glacier at 8am when the sun is below the rigde line and the temp is less then 60 degrees. And like what others have said, be patient, absorb the environment you're in and enjoy the views of Hunter, Foraker and Crossen.
  22. MtnHigh

    Alaska Range TR

    Alaska Range Trip Report The Red Eyed White Boys The original plans: Climb Foraker via the Sultana Ridge. Summit and get acclimized in the process. Rest and climb Denali’s West Rib via the NE Kahiltna fork approach. What actually transpired: 6/2: (7000’ base camp) Flew into the Range and arrived at Kahiltna Glacier 7000’ base camp. The evening weather forecast indicated precipitation and wind for the next 4 days. We decided not to get trapped by weather on the Sultana Ridge, so Foraker is out for now. Repacked our gear and food. We will move up the Kahiltna Glacier and acclimize at the 14,000’ West Buttress camp and make climbing decisions once there. 6/3: (9,000’ camp) Proceed up the Kahiltna Glacier. Made camp at 9000’. Hauling the sleds and big packs was drudgery. Weather was pretty good. What’s up with that report??? 6/4: (11,000’ camp) Moved to the 11,000’ camp. Two consecutive long grueling days. Weather was pretty good again. What’s up with that report??? 6/5: (11,000’ camp) Carried half our gear to the 14,000’ camp. My head was pounding while digging the cache. Descended back to 11,000’ camp for the night. Weather was pretty good again. I’m starting to question the Ranger’s daily weather report broadcast. 6/6: (14,000’ camp) Moved to the 14,000’. It’s great to have a shitter available instead of a plastic bag. 6/7 – 6/8: (14,000’ camp) Two days of crap weather, but we don’t care because we need to hang out and acclimize. Hearts is the most popular tent activity. 6/9: (14,000’ camp) Took an afternoon hike up the WB route to 16,200’. Four parties have come off the West Rib since we arrived at 14,000’, none had summited, and all had disappointing news. We decided to increase our summit chances by sticking with the WB route. 6/10: (17,000’ camp) Packed 4 days of food and fuel and moved to the 17,000’ camp. The ridge between 16,200’ – 17,000’ is great. First sign of rock on the route. 6/11 – 6/12: (17,000’ camp) Shit for weather. Dug the vestibule out from under 3’ of snow one morning. –10 degrees and 30 mph winds the following morning. Rationing food and fuel because we want to avoid having to descend to 14,000’ for more supplies. The Ranger’s weather report calls for high winds above 16,000’ for the next two days. Shortly after the report half the climbers at the 17,000' camp abandon their summit bids and descend to 14,000’. 6/13: (Summit Day) Woke up to blue skies and no wind in camp or above on the ridge lines. It’s –35 degrees as we run the stove and prep for the climb. We summit at noon to warm (45 degrees) blue skies and not a breath of wind. One of the most beautiful summit days I’ve ever experienced. 6/14: (14,000’ camp) It’s a party at our camp. Scotch, Baily’s and coffee, bacon frying in the pan, and lots of bud. The Kentucky Boys team join us in the celebration. 6/14 –6/15: Descended back to the 7000’ base camp. The allure of burgers and beer it too strong. We arrange to be flown back to Talkeetna. All in all it was a great trip. We were incredibly lucky by having good weather when we needed to move, making for a fast ascent. Our plans for Foraker and Denali’s West Rib will have to wait for another day.
  23. Going up Wy'east in slush and mud sounds like someone was jonesin' for a climb. Did you get your fix?
  24. this pc I can attend beware, not only are rock bottom beers marginal but their fries really suck case you didn't know where rock bottom is located 2nd and morrison downtown near the waterfront park see ya
  25. Yocum crossing: I was up there last week and crossed lower down YR. From Illumination follow a 315 degree bearing or if YR is visable simply aim left of where the ridge dissapears below the Reid. 30 minutes from Illumination you will see a broad saddle below YR proper. The saddle is around 8000'. Although you give up 600-700' the climbing is fast and very straight forward. Also, from the saddle the drop onto the Sandy is a cake walk. We camped just below this saddle at a rock outcropping. Excellent spot that's sheltered from the wind. The spot will only hold about 4 bivvies or one tent. Pete
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