johnny

OK, I finally get the motivation to learn to aid climb. My partner and I find a cool, right leaning hand crack (actually a super fun 5.8 lead)and I flop my way up it in the aiders I tied up the night before with much huffing and puffing, learning lots about weight distribution, balance and how to keep the whole magilla from becoming a single large knot at my waist. I lower off and then climb it free to clean my gear. Alan does the same as I next, including placing an old #3 camalot behind a block about 40 feet up just like I had done. Difference is that when he weighted it the block blew out sending him back to the stopper below. The 50 lb block nicked his (thankfully helmeted) head, put a gash in his chin and nearly took me out at the deck. Funny thing happened after that, Alan asked to be lowered after that. OK now to the point. We discussed what had happened and had a few questions. The biggest one involved the physics behind cams. I realize that they work by transfering a downward pull into an opposing lateral force but to what degree? Is it multiplied in any way by being distributed between two directions? How about the size of the cam. Does a larger cam create more outward force than a smaller one? I am wondering if anyone more versed in physics out there can help???

I have noticed around here (NC) that if you like your drawers to remain clean it is a good idea to avoid routes with names referring to the crag or area. "Welcome to Moore's Wall" for instance, or "Surry County Ethics". Every Damn one of 'em seem to be super scary runout leads on marginal gear. These guys were NUTS!!!!! While Becky was flailing through some slide Alder stand (comparison, not condecension,please don't hurt me!), many of these unsung Carolina pioneers were 30 feet above some shitty little nut 4 pitches off the deck. YIKES!!! Also; "Head Jam" at Moore's, it's a big fat offwidth..... and "Shithook" which pretty much speaks for itself.

How's about the venerable truckers hitch??? One never knows when one might have to get hitched to a trucker............ P.S. Really, the Munter hitch, now that I finally know how to use it!!!!

I have a friend (who at her request shall remain nameless) who went to Banff last year to do some ice whith a guy she didn't know too well. They had never really climbed together before and after several days she was beginning to realize why; nothing major, they just weren't getting along too well. She eventually found herself leading midway up a pretty steep pitch with full ice regalia on when some pressing items came to bear. Not really willing to hang on the manky screws and she had in below and lower she had little choice. You add it up; exertion + loose loads = spraypainted drawers . To this day she insists that this incident is likely the single most emberrasing moment of her life to date. She would kick my ass if she knew I am telling you all this.......

One time, in band camp......I was working for the DNR near Colville and living in my van at a campground for the summer. Nice hot summer weather. Nice shag carpet floor in the van. A quart of milk was breifly misplaced under a few other items (dirty clothes if you must know) and subsequently forgotten for several days after having been relieved of its structural integrity. Eventually I found it......... Oh yeah, not exactly a car but...I was kayaking North of Port Hardy BC when a kindly fisherman gave me a couple dozen fresh herring (fry 'em up, they are awsome!!) I had no container so I had him just dump them in my lap for the time being. A few days later I began to get little nose hits while I was paddling but kayaking is usually a damp smelly affair anyway so.....It was a few days after that a stray wave dumped a bit of water in my boat. Much to my delight, the water swished a bunch of maggots out from under my seat. Best part was my being about a half hour from shore. Friendly little fellows they are. Lesson: Always count free herring.

I posted this on the Fossil thread but thought it would be more useful here........ If you go to wilkeson, be sure to park at the OUTSIDE the gate just before the gravel pit. It can be locked and it would suck to be on the wrong side of it! Just walk 100 yards and then right through the pit and find the trail on the far side. Don't underestimate this place, Most of the bolts are new and if you like slabby friction it rocks! The first slab you come to is for the most part pretty easy. The far right line has a cool mantle move, maybe .9 or so and there is a double bulge line smack in the middle of the slab that is really cool. It is only .5 if you go around the bulges but solid .9 or low 10 if you go direct. (Can we call it "Battle of the Bulge"??) The first line you see on the extreme left side of the slab I call "bulletholes" and is great fun, especially if you only use the holes and none of the flakes or crimps. (.7 with, .9+ without) There are a couple of lines on the far end that will make you think. (around .9+ or low .10) The last route just before the big overhang is quite thin and steep, I still have yet to get it. It might go around hard .11. Actually I have never been there......... Long live scabby knees!!!!!

Whoa there! I mistook this thread for the wilkeson one. Oooops!!! Fossil is cool too, if you have lots of forearm strength. Seems like I had more of that when I was single. Hmmmmm..... Carla, If you like Elvis, go to Wilkeson, the problems there are more foot oriented. In climbing, footwork breeds success!!!!!!!

If you go to wilkeson, be sure to park at the OUTSIDE the gate just before the gravel pit. It can be locked and it would suck to be on the wrong side of it! Just walk 100 yards and then right through the pit and find the trail on the far side. Don't underestimate this place, Most of the bolts are new and if you like slabby friction it rocks! The first slab you come to is for the most part pretty easy. The far right line has a cool mantle move, maybe .9 or so and there is a double bulge line smack in the middle of the slab that is really cool. It is only .5 if you go around the bulges but solid .9 or low 10 if you go direct. (Can we call it "Battle of the Bulge"??) The first line you see on the extreme left side of the slab I call "bulletholes" and is great fun, especially if you only use the holes and none of the flakes or crimps. (.7 with, .9+ without) There are a couple of lines on the far end that will make you think. (around .9+ or low .10) The last route just before the big overhang is quite thin and steep, I still have yet to get it. It might go around hard .11. Actually I have never been there.........

Did someone say they were moving to North Carolina? Are you sure you really want to do that? There is some pretty cool stuff to climb around here mtnrgr, maybe we could get together when you land out east.....send me a pm if you are interested, let me know when you are coming. You can also reach me at notquiteasfatascavemanbutstillhopefull@gutwedgedincrack.com

Well, it is not exactly Seattle, but the Tacoma Community College campus near the Narrows Bridge has a ton of cool climbing. All the buildings are finished with approximately 1 inch thick flat stone. It is all pretty solid. The walls themselves are pretty easy as long as your forearms hold out but the coolest bits are the entrances. Many of them are squarish archways that call for some fairly gymnastic manuevers. There is even traversing to be had in said archways in the rain!! Go at night (most of the place is at least partly lit so you can climb pretty easily without a headlamp) or on the weekend though, you WILL be chastized if caught. If you must play during the day/week, check out the back of the gymnasium as noone can really see you there.....

Hey, keep Harry out of this. We all only wish we were as cool as him

In case some of you are not aware, we lost something of a legend yesterday. George Harrison died at a friends home at about 1:30PM (who knows what time zone)after fighting cancer. He was with his wife and son when he went. We all die. Even the beautiful ones.

I just have to say that you all SUCK!!! While you are all trying to ski up each others asses, there is snow falling that cries to be skied on!!!! I could ski circles around all you posers. All I get here is 70 degrees and some drizzle and do you hear me bitchin'?? Hell no cuz I just spent yesterday bouldering at Moore's Wall in the sun (and free-soloing my first 300 foot 5.4. Is 5.4 supposed to be that damn scary???? Someone dig a pit for me before they cross some sketchy slope this weekend will they?? And BE CAREFUL DAMMIT!!!!!!

I um, saw Harry Potter. The movie is actually quite cool. I'm glad there was some hospitable weather out there for you guys!

Thank you Backcountry! Like I said, I have just enough knowledge about internal combustion engines to be dangerous...never said effective. 1700 psi? cut your finger off it would!!! I know this is a climbing site, but what are "glow plugs" if that kind of pressure is enough to "self ignite" the fuel during a compression stroke? What kind of temps does a diesel run at? I have never owned one, just known people who have. Hmmmmm.....

Dru and Caveman; OK Dammit, have you two ever been in the same room together? Ever had sex (consensual or no?) with each other? I'm not coming down on your desires, hey, I have experimented a bit myself. I am concerned however for this feeling of unrequited love I sense in both of you. I think you guys would be happier and sleep much better at night if you would just get it over with. Come-on, Live Life!! Live it to its fullest! Don't hold back!!!

P.S. I think Japanese vehichles absolutely ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (just to avoid the inevitable spray I realized may come from that innocent comment in my last post...) Cavey, how do I import and use all those cool graemlins I keep seeing here. You know, the ones that are not available on the bottom of this page?????

Thing is that diesels run much tighter than gas engines, higher compression; the result of much smaller tolerances and better part machining. They run best at lower, more controlled rpm's. They work great at consistant stuff like highway driving and pulling houses off of foundations (and hauling loads). Also work great at moving BIGGER vehichles around. It seems to be a matter of scale. Those old VW Rabbit diesels were just too damn small to see any benefit from a diesel (those little powerplants are better off as generators!) Everyone is trained to want to wind out a small car moter (thanks Japan!!) Little benefit and fuel availability make for a very small market for micro-diesel vehichles, hence their slow demise. They work excellent at moving Ford Excursions with 23' Sea Ox's in tow however. Gas engines just cannot compete at that! P.S. Most of that nasty smoke eminating from a diesel is relatively large particulate matter that setles out pretty quick, unlike carbon monoxide and other gasses which are much worse for us!!!!!!! OK so I like talking about cars too even if I know about as much about them as I do climbing: just enough to be dangerous to myself as well as others

You are right Will, they look just plain silly. The scary thing is that with improved technology (ignoring TNF heated seats and official logo floor mats) many of these large SUV's actually get better gas milage than many of the sedans and other passenger cars we all used to drive in the 80's I have a friend who just bought a Ford F250 crew-cab pickup to haul his camper and tow his driftboat. It has a diesel large enough to pull a house off its foundation and still gets 16 mpg in town. Ask the nearest v6 Toyota fourrunner owner what kind of mileage they get. I never want a vehicle that big but there it is! P.S. My groovey new Bronco gets about the same mileage, and I could probably park it in the back of an Excursion. (Which comes with the same diesel if you want it)

SHIT!!! I failed to look in the spray zone and missed out on some pretty cool Dan bashing. (no offence Dan, I wouldn't know you if I saw you) After wading ass deep through this thread I have come up with two things. 1. Watch it Cavey, Krispy Kremes are not to be toyed with. 2. Does anyone thing smoking weed at higher elevations (less oxygen) increases the potency or effect of said weed? Its been a long while since I toked at altitude but I seem to remember thinking that at the time.

Are you going to the Parkway?? Can someone give me a ride there? I live off Peacehaven Rd. It is just west of Winston Salem.......

Not so much Carolyn, the key word with kids seems to be: USED!!!!!! or make it yourself. I kind of liked Hairball's (I think it was you) idea of using ski boots and fitting old crampons on them. tools can be a problem though.... one must be creative!! Sounds like you are having fun on the ice tower thing, I am a little envious....

Hey, someone mentioned Eddie Bauer Edition Fords. I HAVE ONE!!! They are soooooo dang cool!!! OK so mine is a '85 Bronco II with 200K on it that I bought when I moved here for $1700 and had to immediatly put a muffler on, a new battery, a MAJOR tune up, new radial arm bushings, a valve adjustment, coolant flush and thermostat, rear u-jounts, clean the carpets, pressure wash the engine, do the rear brakes....there is more to do still but I have only had it a month. But DAMMIT, it says EDDIE BAUER right on the dash!!!! The coolest part is the inflatable, yes thats right everyone, inflatable lumbar supports. It even has window cranks, no buttons, those are for wussies. Anyone want a ride?????? BTW, Gary seemed cool when I saw him once. And free slide shows rock. TNF was great till Jansport bought 'em and all their good designers went on to create Mountain Hardwear. A little like Harley Davidson in the '80s when AMC took over........... OK, I am done now. Good morning everyone!

Only pussies play tennis?? I bet Dru's Anna could kick all of your overblown testosterone laden asses (even if she never has won any major tourneys and makes more money than any female tennis player on earth right now) Just shows you the TRUE value of a high quality, well marketed ass She is a babe tho............

Do you play golf David? Hmmm, drops you down a notch or two in the karmic scale it does..... They are all exactly right Speed. Good quality, gentle soap, the mondo front-loader at the local laundry-mat, and a tennis ball for drying. Shoes seem a bit too aggressive for me but if you have cushy feet.....I've found it easier to dedicate the time at the laundry-mat that to muck about at home trying to make do with a tub or smaller washer/dryer. Don't get in a hurry to dry it though, use a lower heat if you can get away with it, nylon melts pretty easily!! Pleasant smelling dreams!