Jump to content

rat

Members
  • Posts

    666
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

rat last won the day on December 18 2024

rat had the most liked content!

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

rat's Achievements

Explorer

Explorer (4/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare
  • One Month Later Rare

Recent Badges

47

Reputation

  1. That's quite a set of perched blocks along the side and top of that lower, scimitar-like feature. Maybe solid for now...
  2. John, Yep, I saw that photo when looking for lines other than the first ascent. If the summit register is to be believed, the Plumb Line Buttress is probably the, in my flea-bitten opinion, less aesthetic buttress starting from the right edge of the leftmost snow patch. We initially had our sights on the thinner rib west of our central buttress but there appeared to be a section of rot where it first gets steep and another below the top so we opted for the safer option. It's anyone's guess where Roger Jung went but I wouldn't be surprised if he climbed roughly the same line as us. I would call ours a "possible" rather than "probable" first ascent. To add to Eric's list of stats: We took about 6 hours on the route but that's 'cause one of us is "old and in the way".
  3. Dedication. Beaks are aid. You need some wart hogs and snargs.
  4. rat

    Generational talent?

    Not necessarily best-of but still damn fine all-arounders: Wojciech Kurtyka ('70's). Silvo Karo ('80's-'90's). Mick Fowler (arguably still in his prime, even w/ a colostomy bag).
  5. Probably worth your time: https://watch.sdpb.org/video/the-ups-and-downs-of-herb-and-jan-conn-iatiny/
      • 2
      • Like
  6. In addition, if that's a picture of the actual bolt, I would be suspicious for 2 reasons: 1. It appears under-drilled because the eye isn't flush w/ the rock let alone notched in. 2. There is zero epoxy showing around the outer perimeter of the hole.
  7. Stainless steel glue-in. Many manufacturers require them to be notched in. Info if needed: https://hownot2.com/blogs/bolting-bible
  8. This might be useful for some of you: https://roadstatus.searchthesummits.com/
  9. Way to (Allen) Carpe diem on a beautiful line.
  10. Yes, fascinating. The potential duplicity, not the potential acts themselves, is still seems less than flattering in my opinion regardless of the military policy at the time. I was disappointed not to have made it to the other "controversial" section about the Everest expedition.
  11. "Well, this is gonna be interesting.... The website is https://statisticalclimbingguideforfredbeckey.webador.com/articles and was also posted then deleted on NWHikers.net. The links to the articles don't work for me now. Prior to the abrupt about-face, I skimmed through Chapter 18 regarding his Army service & discharge. It painted a less than flattering portrait but seemed to have plenty of documentation. Mr. Creeden has also posted other interesting historical info on NWHikers. AI spoof (seems unlikely but wtf knows these days), the heavy hand of moderation, legal threats, and/or just second thoughts and wanting to save it all for the definitely "not published by the Mountaineers" book? Inquiring minds want to know." Fred Beckey(TM) https://www.fredbeckeyllc.com/ UBI: 604-172-710. "Governing people": Megan Bond. Just so it's all in one place for posterity and such...
  12. Fred Beckey(TM) https://www.fredbeckeyllc.com/ The licensing opportunities boggle the mind. Who woulda thunk it.
  13. Nice find & thanks for the road info. I was a volunteer USFS wilderness ranger for the Entiat district in 1988 and spent a lot of time soloing peaks back there as part of my "work". The relatively prominent W to SW ridge was ~5.7 on nice rock. Correct me if I'm wrong but Choral seems to be part of the Cardinal pluton. Unfortunately most of the other rock in the upper reaches of the Entiat isn't as good.
  14. Thanks for the takeaways tbickford. For those interested, the public comments are posted here: https://cara.fs2c.usda.gov/Public//ReadingRoom?Project=65559
  15. rat

    topic deleted

    Well, this is gonna be interesting.... The website is https://statisticalclimbingguideforfredbeckey.webador.com/articles and was also posted then deleted on NWHikers.net. The links to the articles don't work for me now. Prior to the abrupt about-face, I skimmed through Chapter 18 regarding his Army service & discharge. It painted a less than flattering portrait but seemed to have plenty of documentation. Mr. Creeden has also posted other interesting historical info on NWHikers. AI spoof (seems unlikely but wtf knows these days), the heavy hand of moderation, legal threats, and/or just second thoughts and wanting to save it all for the definitely "not published by the Mountaineers" book? Inquiring minds want to know.
×
×
  • Create New...