bigbro

Thanks for the stoke PU. It's been too long.

I did the Regular Route in August 2005, and can vouch for the 2pm'ish time frame for the sun hitting the wall. We made it to the chimneys by this time and the temps were very comfortable. Also, that year the spring at the base was still flowing. Finally, If you plan to bivy try to avoid hauling.

I've used the sp a lot as well . . . agreed that one backup not works well and is mandatory if you are not caring the rope (the weight of the rope cinches the clove hitch). I usually use about a 30-50ft loop between the knot and the device. I prefer to flake the rope on the ground if doing single pitch (less weight) and carefully stack it in a sling/bucket if doing multi-pitch. 10.5 has worked well for me in the past. I have used it for lowering as well, although not ideal, it does have enough friction, for short lower outs. If rapping a full pitch, I'd recommend a Gri-gri single line (assuming multi-pitch climbing). Also . . . don't know if they're still made or not but 2 Petzl williams spin ball biners, connected through your tie-in point works well. Screw gates loosen up as they rub together and auto-lockers are a pain. With spin balls both gates open in unison and they stay locked. Finally . . . regarding the 2mm, (assuming I am understanding you(spotly)). . . just tie a butterfly or figure eight into several pieces as you move up. That way you are constantly building a bomb proof anchor as well as reducing the chance of slack building up on the anchor side. The catch is pretty soft with the sp, I don't know the KN, but it feels pretty soft, not sure a screamer would be that beneficial. Oh ya, don't grab the rope if you fall, you will fall a lot farther and probably get some nice rope burn.

I have yet to get a clear answer on the access issues for Rocks of Sharon. However, I do know that Bob Ordner and Eric Barrett have worked very hard to put a lot of the new lines in, particularly on the Big Rock. Some of the best lines up there, in my opinion. Thank guys! Marty's directions are still valid, to my knowledge.

At one time there were five bolts on top of Dihedral (3 near the edge and two 10-15 feet back). I believe there are at least four that remain, which is too many. Anyway, my previous point was simply that there is a lot of hardware on top of the Main Wall @ Minni. Rather than slapping more bolts in, the impact to other climbers and recreators should be considered. Dude, your own buddy is the guy rippin out the bolts! I'm just saying a little less exposure/impact is a reasonable objective.

What happened to low impact climbing? Five bolted anchors for one climb is excessive. When are the handrails, fixed safety lines, and ladders being installed? Obviously, there are people on this site that do not want the bolts replaced. Maybe this is something to think about before more holes are drilled.

Your Ninja memory must be failing you, that 3/8in hole has been there for years! If you want to stir up some shit with guys that like to drill useless holes, go talk to the "kootenai climber coalition".

The rocker vs. crampon issue has not been a problem with the Kaylands. My Grivel 2F's fit like a glove. They don't have a lot of "rocker" and the 2F pivots differently than other crampons. I know that a lot of boot-makers currently use the "rocker" type. It seems to be more and more common. It's a great idea but maybe they should have consulted the crampon makers. I know this has been a headache for at least one crampon company. I don't really have a solution other than a few love taps with a hammer. Some of the Petzl/Charlet crampons bend/comform pretty easily. Good luck!

The gullies will most likely be boiler plate ice all the way. I have climbed U notch in September with Kayland Multi-Tractions and had no problem frontpointing. The Trango Evos have a similar flex, as I recall. Having some flex is nice for the approach and talus field. FYI, I have seen guys up there in september, in plastics!

Dirt bikes in wilderness areas make great target practice!!

Depends on the boot. If your looking to buy, try your boot out on several brands. Some will fit better than others. FYI my partner had an issue with fitting an older set of sabertooths to Trango Ice boots.

Has anyone used the CAMP Lift? It seems very similar to the USHBA basic but about half the price ~$36.

FYI Yakima systems work better on American and Japanese cars(generally speaking). Unless you already have some components, this is the way to go.

Are you talking about Slick Rock of McCall?

I'm not going this year, but I was working at the event last year. There is free camping at the group site at the bridge creek campground. I think directions are on the feathered friends web site. If you plan on partying into the early am, this is a good place to be, if not, you'll want to be well away from the area because of the music. It is a really good/fun event and easy to meet people to climb with. I wish I could go this year but, I have other obligations. Have fun!

The book is out of print and it's pretty hard to find a used copy. Unless you can find someone to let you copy the book, you're on your own. The regular route is the obvious weakness on the right side of the face. The gear is plentiful (normal rack mostly finger to hand size). Most of the climbing is in the 5.6 realm aside from one move at the lieback which is well protected. Walk off. As PU mentioned, it is probably too early to gain easy access to the climb.

I was bouldering at Mini on 5/10/06 above the secondary face. It appears someone went crazy with an axe and chopped down about six trees(maybe more); one being about two feet in diameter. Someone had a lot of time on their hands. Not only do we have to contend with fires, broken glass, and graffiti but also rogue lumberjacks.

I equiped the route that pulls the big obvious roof several years ago. It has not been freed yet to my knowledge. It looks like it will go, my guess is in the moderate 5.12 range(Although easier up to the crux). Anyone is welcome to it, I have sort of lost interest after getting spanked on it too many times. It is not a good tope rope route. As for the other routes out there I think it was Grady Roberts or Bill Centinari who put them up, although not 100% sure on that.

Sorry, I have been out of town!!! Sent PM to gosolo.

Mythos are a good shoe for moderate multi-pitch trad. However, I have had some issues w/them. First, there are two metal grommets that act as the fist lace eyelets. If you are stuffing you toes in cracks, the grommets quickly saw through the laces (Mythos are a bitch to relace). Also if you tend to have wide feet, as I do, the toe rand tends to buldge out, making it more difficult to place your foot on small edges (granted, it is not marketed as an edging shoe). Anyway, I know several people that have had good luck with the Trad Masters.

Selling a TNF A5 portaledge with the fly (poly-coated). It's never been used! $250 Selling Metolius El Cap Haul Bag. Slightly Used, but in really good shape. $140 Selling Atomic TM 18 190cm Teli skis w/skyhoy binding + brake. Great racing setup! The skis are several years old but have only seen about 7 days, mostly on piste. Bases are perfect. $120+shipping. (SOLD) Selling Patagonia Ice Nine Gore-tex Suit size Medium, red,good condition. snap on leg needs replacing. $120

The route is on the peninsula on the west side of Banks Lake slightly north of Steamboat Rock. There are a # of route out there. For Info, check out "Rock Climbs of Central Washington" by Rick La Belle. It finally came out last week. Mountain Gear is the publisher so I assume it has many copies. Also, a book I believe is called Weekend Rock, by ???? mentions one or two routes in the area. La Belle's guide is probably the most comprehensive. Sorry no pics. The camera was unused, just like all the other 60lb of shit we hauled out there.

Climb: Banks Lake: Orange Walls-Muddy Waters Date of Climb: 4/7/2006 Trip Report: Went to the peninsula area on friday, good weather, no snakes, and lots of ticks. We attempted to drive out there however our efforts were halted by a nasting 100ft mud bog. We hiked from here. We climbed Muddy Waters, which is probably worth the effort if you're in the area. the first two pitches have some decomposing granite, but are realatively cruizer and well protected. The last two pitches are on fairly good rock and fun. We spent most of our time exploring the area so this was the only route we did. Gear Notes: Quickdraws are all that are need for this route. Quick links/chains/webbing are recommended as the rap anchors are not well equiped. Also a 70m rope is recommended to link the raps. A 60m requires nasty, exposed down-climbing. Approach Notes: The approach is a pain in the ass if done by land. A boat is highly recommended. The dirt road may be better in the fall if the water dries up but right now it is not an option.

The reference to the quickdraw issue was to suggest that maybe it was not actual a climber that destroyed the bolt.

Post deleted by bigbro