slaphappy

My lady and I go on a "suckfest" now and then. Your right it is truly a rewarding experience!

quote: Originally posted by nerdom: Chop every bolt on every route capable of being climbed clean. Leave the bolting to the choss piles. my $.02 Nerdom who decides what is capable and what is not? Retro-sore-ass with his handful of magic wire nuts? I have a friend who is comfortable soloing at a very high level, does that mean that every climb below his soloable grade (10+ish) should not be bolted?

No Mr. Sore-ass I do not go to the Vertical World or frequent Exit 38, although the opinions of the people that use those areas, as well as Leavenworth, are every bit as important as yours or mine. We are all part of the same community.

Argue? I don't see my comments as argumentative.

Only out of the 10 or so people who post on this thread, not the community in a whole.

I'm rather sick to my stomach over this whole topic, but does it bother anyone else that a guy from Utah now living in Portland drove to Leavenworth to chop a route? [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 07-23-2001).]

For a guy asking for help "empty space" you sure have a piss poor attitude! Have fun Lambone!

Aquaseal makes a product called "Mirazyme", a microbial odor eliminator. It is made for the elimination of funk in sports/outdoor gear. (and is biodegradable, for those who care) I don't know for fact it will eliminate the stains, but it does work relatively well on the odor. You should have no problem eliminating any stains with Nikwax's Tech Wash, a Gore-Tex safe stripper. The shit takes out most anything. (work some in before the wash full strength) Tech Wash is available at most outdoor shops locally, but the Mirazyme I have not noticed anywhere. Good Luck! [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 07-22-2001).]

Ditto Ray! and borrow Mitch's crowbar. (you will probably need the four footer.)

Disgusting Mitch! You should have just left it alone. (especially if your not going to step up to the plate and lead it) I don't know why they bolted it, there is plenty of new lines to be done, but I definitely don't feel it should have been chopped! Keep your crowbar, you can use it to pry your head out of your ass!

Little bastards stole my bud once!

I hate those trundling, piss licking bastard goats!

CCH ALIENS rock! (all sizes) Full set of BD's. (down to .5, no micros) Metolious 0 and 00. (various duplicates, good to leave in a pinch)

I have always relied heavily on my Petzl Zoom. Recently I have been using the Tikka, and have become quite fond of it, choosing it over the Zoom for obvious size and weight differences. I am headed out for an extended trip involving your typical alpine start. Until now I have not "trusted" the Tikka for this use. Packing my pack I would sure like to huck my Zoom in the scree,(relax I'm not gonna litter) and take the tikka. Has anyone done any moderate route finding and glacier travel with this gem? Is the light sufficient? Would you recomend it, or should I stick with my trusted Zoom? I appreciate any help.

It's bad enough to listen to people bitch about a line of bolts, but now someone climbing a line of bolts is bitchin about a line of seeds!?! Come on!!!

BCDog why do you want to use wire bindings? In most circumstances, with plate bindings, you must run with the binding pointed so far forward you lose the stability achieved with a near 90 degree stance. If you turn them towards 90 degrees the heel and toe drag will screw yah.(If you have huge feet you will probably have toe drag anyhow) Although I do not use a split board, (I prefer snowshoes and a different board) I am familiar with the system, and would suggest using a standard strap binding, preferably an aluminum baseplate. Due to the stiff mountaineering boots, it is not difficult to achieve enough torque to brake a plastic baseplate. The strap bindings allow you to enjoy a freeride stance thus maintaining better control. Were you to use plate bindings, you would run into the same problem as skiing, too short of a boot with way too little forward lean. If you had another reason for the question, I apoligize for wasting your time. Colin I am impressed with your solution to the forward lean problem while skiing with mountain boots. Have you ever been concerned about damage to your knees in the event of a spill? I will likely try this the next time skis are warranted. Although I doubt I will buy shorter skis, which would help. Thanks again for sharing a fine idea. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 07-05-2001).]

I made the mistake of asking a worker/scientist who was eating his lunch out in front of the tunnel a few years ago, and I heard the same thing Erik heard for way longer than I cared too. I'm sure I had the "deer in the headlight look" going on!

Ray, Is this not your original comments about DDD? What gives? Why don't you just leave it be? "DDD route is bolted but oh well I guess that is what happens when the thing sees a handful ascents in 15 years (or so I hear). Apparently someone decided they wanted to climb it and be somewhat safe about it. Not to argue that I agree with bolting it because I feel in the middle about it. Face it, now it is a great line that will be climbed by more than a handful in the next 15 yrs. Doh !! Let me see hit the deck for some climb or be safe they must have thought. I think the arrogance and machismo was downgraded on one half of me to be honest. The other side says damn there are plenty of other routes to get on too. As far as overbolting I dont think it falls into this category myself. If you dont like it go chop em. To call it Bolt Mania may be a little overboard too?" [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 05-17-2001).] [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 07-05-2001).]

A number of times I see coments such as "Anyway, it sounds like everyone's more or less on the same page on this, so no point in arguing." Who is every one? The 10 or so same people commenting repeatedly? I'm not on that page, and my opinion counts just as much as any one of yours. You people do not voice the opinion of the majority of the climbing community! Are you going to call the "first ascentionist" and ask him if it's cool to chop the route that was recently retroed? I believe the bolters did before they drilled. I also heard they asked publicly for comments before doing it. You don't even know who they are! (Falsely accusing people seems to be a habit from some!) You should certainly talk to them before any action is taken, as Victor suggested. I do not think you should chop the bolts on DDD! [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 07-03-2001).]

Good point Will! I am now primarily a snow boarder and have ridden in nothing but plastic boots for the past five seasons.(even at the areas) That is a combo that works well! Warmer dryer feet, better hiking, and way more control on the carves than lame ass snowboard boots! The only hinderance is if your into that "jib" crap. Climbing boots don't offer enough flex for that funk. That shits for posers anywho.

They do work although there are a lot of factors that come into play that may discourage you from using them often. I have done it only a few times and mostly just to save time not for the "run". I used a pair of Asolo 101's (The old gray/orange AFS model) which although they are stiff, the uppers are short and not nearly stiff enough to obtain optimum control of your skis. The length and type of ski you use may help here considerably. The shorter and softer the better.(to an extent) I have Fischer Tour Alpin's 190 cm with Fritchi Automatic bindings. These things are pretty big and heavy, and I'm not, so controling them with a SOFT boot is challenging at best especially if the snow is the typical crud we frequently encounter. The other very real possibility is literaly breaking your plastic boot. These boots are not designed to withstand the torque used while skiing. I have seen the toe of a plastic mountaineering boot crack open completely during a crash. Which brings up one last point, if your bindings have a "din" settable release, your mountain boots may not release correctly possibly causing serious bodily injury! They do work, but they're not ideal.

If you use 1/2" rawl 5-piece sleeve anchors (far stronger than expansion studs), you don't need 1/2" hangers. The sleeve is 1/2" in diameter, but the bolt is 3/8" in diameter. Be sure to put the hanger on the bolt before pounding it in. If you don't there is a good possibility of losing the threaded end in the hole.

NO! NO! Mr Pope not your big head, Erik's HUGE head! I thought maybe we could all toprope a face climb together! And yes most of it is meant in good humor!

Hey Dan, Instead of climbing with Erik maybe Pope will let us toss a couple of anchor bolts in Erik's forehead and we can toprope his inflated head! Oh and thank you Erik, if it was in fact you, for making Washington climbers look so "reasonable" in the latest issue of Rock and Slice, Letters, page 15. Arsehole! [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 06-12-2001).]

You are correct, we are way off subject, my apologies to the readers. One last clarification, I did not EXACTLY mean chop a retroed climb you feel is stupid. I meant more of a "clean-up of unfinished buisness", unless, (of course) it's your own route. [This message has been edited by slaphappy (edited 06-12-2001).]