viktor

There is a new crag to the right of Clem's Holler on the way to the Nut House, Maple Heights. The route there is 5.9, a few bolts and gear to 2". (90' more or less). At the Nut House is a short new sport route, Pistachio Pillar, 5.10c/d, 6 or 7 clips. It follows the greenish rock to the left of State of Delusion. check em out. VK

The stuff on the left are "projects" that no one has been able to do, as far as I know. Been there for years. The bolted crack in question was bolted due to the friable nature of the crack. It's different kind of rock and a touch unstable. Tap it with a hammer and see. Sure it takes gear, but I don't think you want to whip on it. Put your aiders on it and jump on your gear. They are not necessarily "chicken" bolts but were meant to keep the rock from busting apart in the event of a fall.

the tree in question is pretty charred from the '94 fire and I think the sap leakage is a result of that. There sure is a ton of it. PeteA must have meant Barney's, not bruce's.

Some of the anchors at Clamshell have been replaced by generous individuals who have donated time and materials. If you use a huge ass sling on the tree for The Cube, prepare to toss them afterwards. That tree is oozing buckets of sap all around it.

There is another closure in the works. They are considering salvage logging for the 2001 fire that closed portions of Icicle Canyon last year. This will occur in august/september and will close the same areas as before. I spoke with the USFS yesterday and my impression is that they are very cooperative and interested in climber input. The woman I spoke with has been out locating climber's trails, boulders and crags,etc. and was concerned with access issues in other areas, too. Trying to put a positive spin on the logging thing, I suggested it might be a good time to improve the "trail" to Bathtub Dome, which has become popular in recent years and got heavily scorched in the fire. She was most receptive to this and other ideas. I'm not sure where I stand on the logging thing, but if they do it, they do it. I would hold off on the militant attitude for now.

Has anyone out there climbed any of the routes in this area of Snow Creek Wall? I am revising the guidebook and welcome any info on any of the obscure stuff up there. thanks

climbed on Duty Dome yesterday, Tumwater couple weeks ago, warm rock, cold air. I'd be there now if I wasn't doing this.

the tracks (Icicle River Trail)have been open in Leavenworth since the end of Nov. when we got about 30". Been out just about every day since, classic and skating are both in great condition. The local website gives up to the minute grooming news and conditions, etc. http://www.skileavenworth.com/index.htm

the tracks (Icicle River Trail)have been open in Leavenworth since the end of Nov. when we got about 30". Been out just about every day since, classic and skating are both in great condition. The local website gives up to the minute grooming news and conditions, etc. http://www.skileavenworth.com/index.htm

Greetings, I am currently compiling data for a revised guidebook for the Leavenworth area. I'm looking for any tidbits of information anyone can offer to improve the next edition, specifically new route data or any erroneous stuff in the current book. Also looking for worthwhile photos to publish, action shots, historical, bouldering, scenic, etc. I have listed a few specific questions below if anyone can answer: 1. I need an updated topo of Rattlesnake Rock/Piton Tower since bolts have been replaced and the current topo is not quite correct. 2. Need info on the new route(s) on the Drip Wall. 3. Can anyone provide a topo for Mountaineers Dome? Should I bother? 4. Would like to hear from Mike Shaefer in regards to his line at the Pearly Gates. 5. Anyone know anything about the scrubbed line to the left of Edge Rider? 6. Can anyone claim the route noted as Stretcher? 7. Same for the bolted line to the right of Dogleg. 8. Same for the arete on J-Y Crag. 9. Same for the bolted lines on Upper 8-mile Buttress. 10. Bridge Creek Wall-would dearly love to hear from anyone having climbed there recently. The current topo is pretty sketchy. 11. Has anyone actually freed Die Kante? (on TR of course) 12. Would like to hear from Joe Riechart (sp?) in regards to his route on Bathtub Dome. 13. I've hear of a route near Bathtub called Cricket(?) Need more info. I may have more questions later and thanks for any positive responses in advance, Viktor

I agree 100% percent with Darryl. Here's a guy who is actually doing something positive for the benefit of all. I commend his efforts and would encourage everyone to offer their support in whatever capacity is needed. Count me in.

Clamshell Cave. Bring hangers.

I have seen the exact same thing happen at least 3 times on that route as have others. Some locals call the route "Slab Slapper" for that reason.

You guys are right about one thing - it is a great crag. I have a preliminary topo in the works, if anyone wants one, send me an email. This is not my "secret crag". I have only been involved with 3 or 4 of the 30 new routes this year. Many others have contributed a lot of energy to develop these climbs for everyone to enjoy. There is a mix of good cracks from 5.8 to 5.11, and some bolted lines in the same range. The majority are gear routes.

I was there. I spoke with your pals and exchanged a few pleasantries. They seemed OK to me. Dave said he talked to them too. Where you there? What is your complaint exactly? Huh? Do you just like to stir up shit for no reason? So someone threatened to kick your ass? I find this hard to comprehend since you WERE NOT THERE! Don't miss your next anger management class, loser.

Cpt. is correct. Park on the roadway and you won't get hassled. That's what I do.

The Duolith has a one-pitch crack on the south side around 5.10, I think. Orange colored rock and obvious. The first rap off the Mole will reach a slopey gravelly ledge with a 50, I think. You'll have to funk your way down to the next station. Not hard but scary. I'd pack the 60 if I were you. 3 rappels. Or bring a 3rd person, 2 ropes, and you rap off in 2. Good luck with water.

I'd like to know if any bolts were actually pulled or just the hangers removed. I placed the station on GRTC myself and I recall they were Rawl 1/2"ers. These bolts can be unscrewed and removed easily, leaving the sleeve behind. It sounds like we're dealing with ordinary thieves who pocket community property just because they can. These guys are not "chopping" to make a statement. I can almost guarantee those hangers will not reappear on any new routes around here or anywhere. Anyone that low isn't about to "recycle" hangers elsewhere for the benefit of others.

I saw a large camo army truck at both Barneys and parked by clamshell in the last week. There was a bunch of commando types in camo outfits at Barneys. I wonder if our comrades-in-arms know something. Maybe they're gonna rappel into Afghanistan. Whoever is responsible is either a total moron or just an asshole, or both.

I saw 3 small fires start back up again on sunday on the slopes of Mt. Cashmere. There are a few firefighters around and an occasional chopper flight but I think its all under control. Just to clarify the closures, Icicle Buttress and everything downstream is open but up from there on the right side (as fred points out) is closed. 8-mile rock (classic crack) is open.

http://www.shorelinemtn.com/ These guys have 5/16" buttonheads for 1.80 each

strange topic, but I'd like to point out that bouldering is hardly "environmentally friendly" Around here, boulderers are like the mountaineers. They travel in numbers and pummel the meadows to dust. Yea, I know, at least they don't drill holes in the rock. It seems to me that land managers are getting more focused on bouldering's impact. Regardless, there are more important issues to dwell on these days.

must have been the late 80's in Joshua Tree, went over to Jimmy Cliff to do Friendly Hands (10b) This guy ahead of us was following and struggling a bit but not as much as I did. This silver-haired dude said he was 79 and from Tacoma. I was most impressed.

I'm stuck at work on a saturday morning so I'll throw ut this amusing tale: once upon a time a buddy and his wife were climbing the crack at index by the RR bolts. she couldn't get this cam out so he told her to leave it til they rapped by. another party came up, he yelled to them to leave the piece, etc, the other guy arrived at the belay with the cam in his pocket. When my pal rapped down and the piece was gone he lost his mind. meanwhile, the other guys moved on the Breakfast of Champions or something. My pal was still raging at the base when his pal, Kit Lewis, came by. Kit, as you may know, has an affinity for armaments and was packing his black powder rifle which he was blasting down the road a piece. I guess it took about 10 seconds for that cam to appear on the end of a rope after the warning shot.

I would suggest using the 5/16" buttonheads for hand drilling. They are 4 times stronger than 1/4" and don't take any longer to place, 10 to 20 minutes depending on the sharpness of the bit (and the drlller)