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Beck

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Everything posted by Beck

  1. Matt P and myself were talking about this at the Pub Club last night and think there have been no reports of spectra sling failure in Accidents in NA Mountaineering; it's all based on the relative brittle nature of kevlar used in spectra slings. Maybe we can get an industry rep response on this, I don't have any solid beta, just anecdotal. Also, that most slings are rated 16-22 Knewtons so even a 50 percent reduction in strenght is still pretty burly. [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 07-25-2001).]
  2. Indeed a rightous gathering of Cascade Climbers in the pub club last night , a rousing hurrah to all that made it such a stunning success! I will be at the crags on the 31st! If any Seattlites want to carpool, I'll be leaving about six. Shoot me an email.
  3. Regarding spectra vs. nylon, some guys I know that attended this years' Rigging for Rescue course in BC last month came back with new results that spectra slings and runners fail considerably below their kilonewton rating when even a small dynamic fall is induced on them. Don't know all the specifics, maybe is not so big a deal, but I went and replaced my spectra daisy with a fresh nylon one. Also, C&S (some WACKY manufacturer in Marysville ) makes some way burly daisy chains and other bomber gear.
  4. Thanks, Ibex, exactly. I'm just passing along the beta that spectra is best suited to use on belay stances, loaded/tensioned anchors and the like, the new data shows the stuff fails under short shock loads at less than rated strength.
  5. dropping more than just rope stretch/ runner stretch, any fall that generates any movement prior to loading is a dynamic fall. the rigger mentioned a fall of 1 foot as a test drop length on some spectra runners they did. (If I'm remembering this all correctly)
  6. Thank you Dwayner, I am just the facilitator of these drinking yoohahs, I sure wouldn't want to be in CHARGE of you miscreants!! The next meeting of the Cascade Climbers "We're drinking now" Pub Club is called for Tuesday July 24th, at the Ballard Alehouse, 4300 leary Way.(directions on last thread about Pub Club) Some people will be showing at six,looks like, but seven seems to be a more acceptable start time for everyone out there. Hope a few of you can make it, bring pictures, stories, a pile of BS, whatever... look for the least behaved table in the place!
  7. We need to pick a forum/location/time for next weeks meeting, July 31- I beleive the North End has not been adequately represented with a locale, and i ask any northerly types to pick a spot. Flying Pig in Everett? Mccabes? music cafe right at US2/I-5 intersection(that brick building on the east side of I-5 as you merge onto US2?
  8. Climber type or dirtbag culture attire preffered, I'll be wearing a shirt with figure eights rampant.
  9. Prescription sunglasses can be had for less than 175.00 US just buy a set of Julbo round frames and ask your optitian to get you some glass high altitude lenses- made at one lab in US, cleveland I think, and those run about 90-120 US. Will last for a long time, when you need a backup sunglass go with the fitovers or dark goggles w/ your regular glasses and you'll be backed up for less than 200 bills.
  10. to J fisher- double and add 30 will give innacuracies for 40 C it's 6 degrees off 18/10 + 32 is the ratio
  11. Any good ideas on where the next Cascade Climbers "We're Drinking Now" Pub Club meeting should be held? Some possibilities tossed about- Alki Tavern? Blue Star in Wallingford Flying Pig? brewery in Everett The greater Ballard Area? Any ideas from the group?
  12. Beck

    Tacoma Pub Night

    Sorry I miised it, gents, got back late from the North Cascades. Does anyone have a great spot for tuesday the twenty fourth? I like the Ballard idea...
  13. No, caveman, in some of your last posts it sounds like you'll be coming in fists flying at these other guys and I don't feel that 's the spirit of camaradarie. If you recall you got a recent post locked because of your inflamatory comments. the cuffs were to lock you to someone's bumper if you started acting up- I'm not in charge of this thing , i'm just trying to keep these gatherings from becoming some wierd cyber personality slug fest. If all this spray about kicking ass is just Bullshit among friends, do the the people who don't know you might be joking a favor and go spray on the spray board. If it really is a grudge match, go meet at "the first cascade climbers "we're fighting now" grudge match and start your own thread. So, to, get off my soapbox, and back into the drinking spirit, Where do we meet to drink?
  14. To keep the CC Pub Club in the spirit of shared good times, I respectfully request that Captain Caveman keep his unstable self out of it. Jules, if you want to set it at the Old time Alehouse,or the Triangle, let's do it, just looking for some more feedback from everybody, I too, want concensus and not one person running it, I'm just trying to keep the syzygy going on getting togther with other Cascade Climbers from this site. Captain Caveman, don't make me bring the handcuffs so the rest of us can have a good time, we don't need a steroid popping homophobic closet homo malcontent coming in and hoisting his shitty attitude onto the rest of us, hope to keep the good times rollin' !!! Beck [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 07-18-2001).]
  15. Just some follow ups on this, I've been gone in the mtns and just got back. The National Parks are "natural preserves" that need to be maintained for future generations, not some "I want to use it now" access-demanding outdoorspeople.It has been difficult for MORA to keep the westside road open; it gets washed out in the spring. Decision? Close road. I may make an assumption and suppose the NPS wants the road open for emergency access and rangers but not the public. Sure, environmentalists get in the way of trail maintinence and development in wilderness areas. A case in point: the Enchanted valley in the Olympics has been cut off from easy access from both the E and W from bridges being washed out from the winter of 1998. Even last summer ( I haven't checked this season) The bridges were not getting rebuilt because the helicopters needed to fly supplies have the potential for spooking some species of grouse that live oer there. canb't rebuild the bridges with the helicopters, might SCARE THE BIRDS! All that aside, the park is there for the birds, not the hikers, so i'm willing to wait or hike thirty extra miles if i want to climb Mount Anderson. To Brian Rybolt, sir, you sound distictly pro logging and pro development in your stance on wilderness use. Wilderness is just that, Wilderness. Some preservationists believe in less trail maintence, less trailheads, more for nature, because, Mother nature'll be aroung long after the readers on this site are history, the principle on less development is more preservation.
  16. Ratio of 18f/10c plus the 32 degree base difference. example- 5degrees C. = 9 degrees Far+ 32= 41 degrees 18/10+ 32
  17. Did you go, dwayner?
  18. I was up in the North Cascades late yesterday and missed the Tacoma Pub Club meeting, wondering if there is a spot decided on for the 24th yet. Beck
  19. From my understanding, MORA's use plan for Westside road has gone to the "let's not plan to use it" because of it historically getting washed out every so often. With the new Bush adminstration's plan to"streamline" the "backlog" of maintence projects in the Nat'l Parks, having MORA admin plan to fix it up enough for public use is probably a long shot. The new draft plan for use in MORA shows shuttles being implemented for guests of RMI and guided climbs, possibly Paradise Inn guests, NOT dayhikers(as of the last planning documents I saw from MORA)for the Paradise Area.
  20. "reduce, reduce until there is nothing else that can be left behind." or somesuch from Y. Chouinard
  21. Lisa, how about you pick a spot for the following Tuesday? July 24th? I think there's already a consensus on the Parkway Tavern (313 North I st Tacoma) for this upcoming Tuesday.
  22. The first meeting of the CC "we're drinking now" Pub Club was attended by exactly two of us- My buddy Mike U. and myself- we both rode our bikes, him from Bellevue and me from downtown Seattle. We took the corner table on the deck and enjoyed a cool breeze wafting over the trees from Lake Washington. Pitchers of Alaskan Amber quenched our thirsts. Very attractive housewives flug their chests about the deck like status symbols, and we enjoyed the show. We drank, laughed, shared photos, ogled the ladies, intimidated the locals, swaggered, swore, chowed down and left, all without spotting a single other climber type. It took me less than twenty five minutes to bike from downtown Seattle to MI, I'm really suprised no one else in the area came down. it makes me wonder if I show up at the Parkland on Tuesday, do I need to bring someone else, so I'm not drinking alone?
  23. How ELSE do you go swimmin out in the wilderness? who cares if you're nekkid, Mama Nature? Speaking of great places to go for a dip, Has anyone been all the way into Gamma hot springs off the N side of Glacier Peak?
  24. Saturday ropes training With Mountain Rescue, Sun/Mon-Tues am Chiwawa/ Fortress or something closer maybe Columbia or Kyes up by Monte Cristo if the weather doesn't go foul- bringing a friend,going to be nice and relaxing. [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 07-13-2001).]
  25. Beck

    work!?

    Shylock,and amateur gynecologist. Winter weekends I help run the BC ski patrol program at MORA. Just got onto one of the mountain rescue units. Used to be a luger in Lake Placid.
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