Beck

Trask, so venomous, wow, must be tough getting through your day! As for Krak, he's a good writer, Eiger Dreams is a fine example of his earlier works, his later stuff, well, he's good enough the big boy publisher houses love em', same with Morman Nailer, Tom Wolfe, Stephen King and whoever else has been writing best sellers lately- And, although never having met the man Dru has my respect and commendation for his erudition and prose, seems like a bright bulb amongst the rest of the Tikkas out here!

Gaston Rebauffet "On Snow Ice and Rock" is a beautiful book, Rene Daumal's "Mount Analogue" is a total gem! Wasn't "Eiger Dreams" a Krakauer book? pretty good book, that. anything about avalanches and snow science I can get my paws on- not climbing related books? gosh, where to start...although I'd recommend staying away from pulp and reading the classics, I'm rather fond of French surrealists, Russian Industrialists, Marquez, Kundera, John McPhee for non fiction.. oh yeah, and COSMO when I'm in the mood LOL

As in the case of recent bolt chopping on sport routes at Frenchman's Coulee, it is indeed shown that climbing areas will be managed, it is up to climbers to unite in a voice that will help maintain access, improve relations with land owners/ managers, and preserve the vertical environment for future generations of climbers. Ropegun has some well thought out questions, I don't know the answers but am willing to work toward the solutions.

On our heads, usually, Trask, it's how you can recognize us at Pub Clubs.

I'll see you guys in T-Town, hope you can make it!

ANDY FISK WHERE ARE YOU???

I'll pick you up right around 6:30, Caveman, Look for the blue subaru outback - Beck

Usually, my girlfriends are saying "My oh my!" or "Oh my goodness!", at certain moments...

Cave, I can pick you up if you can meet at the I-90/405 park n ride, I'll try not to drink as much as you to ensure relative driving safety! Beck

SomeWhere Beyond Comprehension, a lesser known route up the middle buttress of Mount Analogue!

For any Seattlites wanting to do some schmoozin' and boozin' tomorrow at the Swiss, I'm driving, leaving town 6:30, will pick up if you're south of the ship canal or Ballard Fre Wall U dist- give me a page 253-274-3963- Beck

Looks like Teddy Ruxpin's next "first ascent!!" Wwwrrrow!

I was up at Snoq pass yesterday, the not necessarily accurate beta I got was he slipped traversing on smooth slap going underneath middle peak towards north peak, snow slush on slab a contributing factor.

Dwayner, how'd you do in the Ironman?

I'm there dudes, where?

Uh, is Darhma right about sitting in front of his computer on a weekend mentally masturbating about climbing? Or about being frustrated and spewing vile invective at other well structured posts on this thread? (I'm working, don't even own one of this infernal time wasters, but it's on company time so...) whoops, this thread's degenerating quick!!

I believe one of the reasons Petzl introduced the Reverso was to accomodate and encourage belaying off the anchors for people unfamiliar with a munter hitch and removing the belayer from the anchor "chain" setup; also, to assist gym climbers to make the transition to cragging and outdoor climbing safer...it is a way SAFER device than a munter hitch,inasmuch as safety can be inherent in the design of a belay device...

"Back when I lived in the Great Basin of the American West, going out on a double date meant four cowboys in a pickup." "Back when I was a young climber, we thought getting into a diaper seat meant attaching webbing to a set of pampers." Beck

Sorry, duplicate post- [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 10-13-2001).]

Freeheeling allows for touring in mixed terrain without changing ANYTHING with your setup. No clipping in to turn down an 80ft bump in the terrain. You can parallel turn in tele gear, you cannot tele in Rando gear(for any length of time/torque) In addition, the spped of touring on freeheel equipment is unmatched by any AT or snowboard/snowshoe setup- Also the weight factor. I ski in medium weight leather boots and don't have any problem cutting turns down from Camp Muir or shredding 40 degree slopes or skiing crud/ice- I still haven't gone to plastic boots, but I don't ski lift, Does this make tele BETTER? No. I believe it is the most asthetically pure mode of winter transport around.

"If we had some ham, we could have some ham and eggs, if we had some eggs."

Chounard toepiece was designed for approaches, not tele descents. Make one out of wood, can't be that difficult.

Thanks for checking it out Bronco, I'm just spewing my rational against using daisys in a belay anchor setup, I know lots of people do it and take falls on them, I'm just way cautious- by the way, does anyone see beta from manufacturers, not REI salesdudes, that a daisy is recommended in a belay anchor? /as an edit, I must have confused in my memory individual loops @3kn approx 800 lbs as total daisy chain strength, not total strength of daisy as runner,my mistake [This message has been edited by Beck (edited 10-12-2001).]

Take a short prussik, wrap loaded end of rope, clip to anchor point and lower load onto prussik to anchor. This will free up Reverso and give you rope slack to rig proper lower.

A daisy chain shouldn't be used in any part of an anchor setup as daisy chains rate at 6-800 lb breaking strength-will not take eeven 10 kiloneutons in a dynamic event- webbolette, cordalette, long runners or rope is preferred. Use of Daisys should be limited to body weight hangs off anchor points with seperate belay setup, aiding or clipping gear in at belay stance. My 2 tarnished cents.