Beck

being underemployed right now, i woke up at 330AM and cracked a PBR for all the fallen comrades and partners we all have out there- packed the pipes, quaffed a brew, and really ruminated about all the friends I have lost. *I cry into my beer, the lost friends we never see again* Beck's two cents on love and loss

sorry, marylou, how can we ever forget about the mighty marylou? you are an example of a vociferous cc.com poster who doesn't really climb, girl... did you break your mirror? have you looked at yourself? I don't claim to be a hard man, but have been tying in since 1978.

exactly caveman. That was my point, exactly. but deleted by a "moderator" who knows 'editing your posts bugs you' and then laughed about by Jon, makes me none to confident in the "moderating" ability of this website.... and as to weight to climbers in the NW, this is the PLAB, its the ONLY SITE ON THE WEB! climbers can bitch slap to their hearts content, people who may not even climb, like Marylou or trask or myself?!? huh? not climb? doesn't climb WELL. always off route in the fourth class unprotectible choss pile, looking at my partners, saying 'Well, maybe the face route was a better idea"

Adventure gal, you are so right! did you go swim in the lake today? Surf season should be in full swing on Superior, I'm jealous as to your geographic location!!!

that was a note to Elizabeth Berman about CC.com, and do you notice the comment made by off-white, one of the "moderators" 'it's still nice to know the editing bugs you.' wow mr. moderator, is this what they call "acting like adults?"

i realize now i was posting to the climbers board and not the spray thread about this topic regarding the veracity of Newstips, my apologies... my condolences to the family...

in regards to agendas being set by moderators, I'd say that is clear. do moderators steer commentary to support thier interests? I don't think Mattp would do so. but case in point on the current bolting thread, yesterday I posted a comment made by Royal Robbins, a notoriously clean climber, about why he STOPPED chopping bolts on a hard man route in the sixties Warren Harding had set... it was a comment about a famously clean climber seing bolts as a very small issue, microcosmic against the granite. so he stops chopping bolts.... my post got completly chopped from that thread... whichever moderator thought that was irrevelant to a thread on bolts in the mountains has got their head up someone's ass, and it isn't Mattp as far as I call tell.

can't find my favorite haikus, so I just made one up. But I think my auto sig at the bottom is a haiku of Bassho's, it seperates at the see, and face. Rock calls a siren song. "Will you climb?" she sings out- "Yes!"we shout, "Climbing!"

a royal robbins reference about bolting isn't appropiate here, oh well. my 2 cents- don't place bolts unless you can't protect as trad never met a bolt i didn't like get comfortable with chockstones, carry less gear. my opinion, but i won't quote anyone like Robbins, gosh, it feels like a stalinist purge in here sometimes!

stay away from G3 skins until they prove they know how to make glue- this is the sticking point that makes and breaks glue- and the probe recall was mostly over forgetting to tie a know in the body cord of the avalanche probes, talk about poor QC- and as to ascension skins, both purple and cowprint, the purple has a more durable backing, ther cow print lighter weight- aside from connection, this is largely the difference between the glidelight and the ascension standard

one of the moderators must have a stalinist approach to intelligence on this site, Y.M.A.S.S. I quote Royal Robbins on a post about bolts, and i get chopped. I quote groucho marx about horses ass, and it gets erased by moderators. what is this site, run by anti intellectuals like stalin or pol pot? can't handle intelligent posts? and when Lao Tzu talked about mountains....

like to hang in the 'ablation' zone...

ropes, swami and rap device prerigged as escape device off balcony from crime syndicate clubhouse.

actually, i think i mean the lake on the north side of melawka pass that drains north, sorry

vinylove, baby! get them at the fishermans supply stores. of course, if its warm enough to be raining, you can probably ski barehanded . the russian cross country ski team would make it a point to ski barehanded as much as possible back when i was living at the OTC.

the long way around just might be quicker as the gradient is much easier and the terrain is pretty clear right up to melakwa pass. a sustainable running pace for sure. Me and some buddies skied from the denny creek trailhead to alpental via this route in July 1, 2001 and found excellent open terrain all the way. work climbers right of the waterfall coming out of melawka lake and you arrive on some benches 300 vert below melawka. I'm not sure you can maneuver to granite via the pass unless you drop back to bend around Kaleetnan, maybe the descent from melawka/kaleetnan is a good way to go, i seem to think it would run for some odd reason...

i'd recommend bivying more than fifty yards from your cars. what are you, a bunch of mounties? walk uphill for a half an hour or find a cave you can grovel in. Even though the tool has night vision now, he won't walk 600 vert to give you a ticket in the middle of the night. of course, i don't officially endorse any unauthorized bivying of course, NEWSTIPS, this illegal bivying is only theoretical mafeasance by climbers on FS lands, and in no way do any of us on this board engage in any types of despicable behavior like the reprehensible habit of "unauthorized bivying"...

...just quoting figures. and the way to get this thing off the ground financially would be to build strong relationships with the commercial interests in climbing... for example, the CEO of Trango, founding member of the Access Fund. CEO of Cascade Designs, leader of the OIA. industry teaming to promote climbing issues is the way to spin this. my paper goes in a seattlewide, 50,000 copy 40 pager Nov 16th, let me know if you need any price quotes from inside the publishing arena. and as to Alex's comments no, Lowell, it's probably better if you don't actually get involved with publishing this thing (huh? Alex? are you drunk?) just don't affiliate it to a website, this needs broader support than any stand alone website would get you. you want to be a journal with an online component, not the other way around!

now THATS an interesting story IM editorial O. LEOs giving tickets while cars get broken into response "our primary LEO responsability to the users of public lands is giving tickets to people not using the parking lots correctly." which I presume, would also include car breakins, but if indeed it is not that way, that's news.

news media doesnt often do stories about "dickhead authority" figures, but good luck, gents... my experience in Lwurst is always a positive one. then again, I have a parking pass. too bad I don't own a timber company or I bet I could get some roads built right to the good "vert" wether it was wood or rock... hmm, a timber company...

actually, Jon, I disagree. My newspaper pulls in almost 4,000 dollars a month from many small businessmen, not a corporate ad in the entire paper, and it still grosses 4K. print it up, make it available as a rag and on the web, and give it away free. don't charge for climbers beta , leave that up to the AAJ. Plus, Lowell, I am confident the CAJ would garner significant support if it was spun in the right direction to the right people with the corect spin...and funding that would be the EASIEST side of the project, not the tough part...

kitten, the only question I have for you is, are they black?

I was in Leavenworth yesterday doing some Access Fund outreach at the Ranger Service office, and one of the lead rangers there, he is a climber from the old school and mentioned going to festivals in Wyoming when he was younger because "that's where all the climbers had the most going on" and "they had the biggest shindigs" maybe there is a misimpression about rangers and climbers that needs to be covered as a story newstips... what's also interesting is they don't have a big problem with user established treads being developed in the wilderness, as long as they don't impact threatened species and are low impact... interesting, fresh perspectives even I didn't know the Leavenworth RS possessed...

Lowell, I will PM you or we should talk about this. I have the ability to desktop publish tabloid type papers or bound copies on a short press run capability, including true dot matrix photo reproduction quality, so b&W photos reproduce fully in print...and indesign lets you create pages for the web with the same format quite easily... additionally, a 15,000 newsprint weight press run of a paper like OffPiste in 16page format should only cost about 1,200 dollars and we could definetly make that from one ad. a glossy pub, a bit more, but still able to cover cost thru advertising... I am editor in chief of a community newspaper here in Seattle, and lend my whole hearted support behind publishing an annual CAJ.

Andy Fitz sent pistachio pillar and said it was real enjoyable. Oh, and props on the way it was set, good positioning of the anchors... I as rehabbing a broken thumb and double bruised ribs this summer so i was climbing more 5.8ish and checking out my grippers at clamshell. Andy really liked it, and the crag development looked excellent. There's probably nothing else much up there anyone needs to develop up there oh, and Viktor, props on the guidebook, it makes my head spin