ScottP

Have you considered the Sawtooth range in Idaho? There are some really nice places to go and routes to climb. Elephants Perch and Finger of Fate are worthy objectives.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: (snip) they can probably make no-trace, stick -on, removable bolts out of this stuff too. the old era of drilled holes may end and make all our ethics obsolete!![/b] Reminds me of my first trip to the Valley in the early 80's... there was a ladder of loops of quarter inch webbing superglued up the back side of the Columbia Boulder in Camp 4. Those guys sure were hard core about body weight placements.

quote: Originally posted by pope: Hey Hemlock, I knew you'd make it. Nice place here. Didn't you just love the Neutered Prince quiz question? "Who did the first ascent of blah blah blah?" Answer: "I did." Does somebody need a pat on the back? No pat needed, thanks (though I do think you are being overly sensitive about the whole thing). I asked the question to see if anybody else was claiming the first ascent. I find it interesting that I sent a letter to Smoot about it with the same name change only days after I climbed it. If Massey says he got it first, that's fine with me. I would still like to hear how he did it without disturbing any of the dirt on the holds.

My friend Rob was at the top of Davis Holland (base of Lovin Arms). He says the Upper Wall shook like Jello. There was big stuff dropping all around them, but not so much as a grain of sand fell on them.

quote: Originally posted by pope: My memories pretty hazy, but I could sware that Mike told me he was there when the block fell...right under it! He apparently got the end of his rope cut, but then turned around and climbed it before the dust settled. Sometime during the week of October 13th-18th, 1991 that block fell off. I was out there on the 13th and again on the 18th where my partner and I saw that it had come off. I led up the lower part just to see what it looked like only to find that every conceiveable edge (including the mantle into the depression left by the block) that could hold dirt was undisturbed. The crack behind the block that took a yellow tcu to protect the moves from the depression to the traverse was completely filled with dirt. I unearthed a placement, swept off some more holds and proceeded into the traverse and the rest of the pitch. I later spoke to some guys who say they were there and that a part of their rope is under the debris, but they never said a word about climbing it. I also later heard rumor that Fred Grafton got the first ascent, though from the completely undisturbed nature of the rock uncovered by the block falling off, I believe that I got there first. It would be fun to talk to Mike about this.

It wasn't Mike Massey, unless he missed crucial holds and bypassed obvious gear placements (the latter possibly being the case if Mike's reputation is what I hear it is.). [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 05-15-2001).]

It wasn't Al. BTW, for another $200.00 and what's behind the curtain, who did the first ascent of Princely Ambitions after the block fell off?

My source said Fred threatened to punch out the lights of a guy named "Shop Boy". Is this Big John? (He didn't divulge Shop Boy's true identity.)

More Index trivia: What is the nickname of the person largely responsible for hanging the boarshead from bolts on Model Worker AND why was the tradition finally stopped?

I'm surprised no one has mentioned the ride from the top of the basin under the east face of Chair Peak. Not a long one, but you definately get some speed up. I second the Interglacier on Rainier, the Sitkum Glacier on Glacier Peak and Colchuck Glacier. Another short and steep is the drop from Headlee Pass below Sperry Peak.

Scott, I imagined you'd take a hint and some constructive criticism and learn from it rather than getting your drawers in a bunch. I posted a response for just that reason. Nothing macho about it. Goodbye.

>have you climbed this route? No. >what are the objective hazards? Falling rock, falling ice, hidden crevasses, gravity. >can it be done in two days in early season? Depends >what are snow conditions like back there? Cold, wet, white. >avalanches? Probably

Come on Scott, you weren't asking for beta, you were asking for a forecast. My point being that if you want useful beta, ask questions more specific than "what are the objective hazards?", "what are snow conditions like back there?" and the painfully vague "avalanches?" >in any case- contrast your response with the >others- can you see any difference? The post by "W" right after mine... look closely and you'll see many similarities. He just used more words. >just how specific should the questions be? Specific enough that someone like me won't have fuel to burn you with. Something more like, "Is there any entrance onto the glacier that is better than any other to avoid getting chopped by falling stuff?" or, as you asked on your second attempt, " 'has anyone found soft, wet snow' recently?" Then there is always the time-tested method of walking in there to see if the route is in condition, and, if it isn't, have a secondary objective in mind. ps >has anyone found soft, wet snow or has this week of mostly sunny skies firmed things up a bit? have the recent warm temps caused lots of large slides? IS there something a tad contradictory in these two sentences? (insert winkysmiley here)

Charlie wrote: >You guys need to get out more You've got that right...

"Scott" wrote: thanks w. scott p- ooh look, you made a witty! clever, clever! Actually Scott, the purpose of my post was to make a point about the general nature of your request: You ask about objective hazards on an alpine route. How much more detailed can one get than stuff falls on you or you fall into stuff? (I didn't mention possible weather hazards or any of a number of the other objective hazards that might be encountered when doing any alpine route.) You ask about snow conditions and avalanches as if these were static things. It is a glacier for god's sake; changes occur quickly. You ask if it can be done in two days: depends on your physical condition and route conditions, both of which nobody else is absolutely sure of. You asked for generalities and I gave you generalities.

The west buttress of Blueberry Hill in Darrington is multipitch, has one move of 5.8 (the rest being 4th to 5.7), fantastic views, and an approach that is almost entirely 3rd class granite slabs.

A few years ago while climbing the Dark Crystal, I found a #3 friend on the route. It took a little fiddling , but eventually came out. It had remnants of blue spray paint on it (which I scraped off.) The next season while bouldering at Bruce's Boulder, I saw a guy with a rack of gear painted the same color. I asked him if he had ever done the Dark Crystal route. He eyed me suspiciously for a moment and then responded with "Did you get that Friend out?" I told him I had. He just shrugged and went back tyo belaying his partner. His partner seemed rather perturbed that I knew who's gear it was and didn't offer to give it back. The owner KNEW that it was no longer his gear. He abandoned it. I found and retrieved it. If I had found that Friend in the parking lot I would have seen it as lost, not abandoned and would have offered it to him.

Originally posted by ScottP: I wear a pair of 20 year old Raichle Montagna's under a pair of Yeti SuperGaitors. My feet stay warm and dry but for some sweat now and then.[/b] Dru replied: "just think, if you had plastic boots you wouldn't have to wear supergaitors to keep your feet dry" Yes, but I would have to wear gaitors anyway to keep snow out of the tops, leather is more versatile, and supergaitors look so cool

Dru wrote: "IMHO when it comes to slogging through the slush all day NO leather boot out there keeps your feet warm or dry. leather is great for rock and/or mixed, where it's dry, but for wet snow, so common hereabouts, plastic is the way to go." I wear a pair of 20 year old Raichle Montagna's under a pair of Yeti SuperGaitors. My feet stay warm and dry but for some sweat now and then.

Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is a pretty cool place, as is Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. From the latter, you can drive out to the coast to a place called Fern Canyon. It is out of the way, but worth the trip. The breakfast at the Samoa Cookhouse in Arcata (actually out on the north jetty at Samoa)is worthy also. If you want to do some good bouldering, check out Moonstone and Lufenholtz Beaches between Trinidad and Arcata. Check out: http://www.cranc.com/ and http://www.holdit.com/doug/climbing.html

Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park is a pretty cool place, as is Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. From the latter, you can drive out to the coast to a place called Fern Canyon. It is out of the way, but worth the trip. The breakfast at the Samoa Cookhouse in Arcata (actually out on the north jetty at Samoa)is worthy also.

Speaking of Liquid Nitrogen... Does anyone know if it has ever been onsighted? Scott

Peter Puget wrote: >FYI: Dick Cilley is just a guidebook >invention when the FA party was unknown. That's pretty funny.

Erik, You imagine incorrectly...no wait... yes, Canis Crag IS in the vicinity of Darrington. Actually, there are a couple of good crack lines I want to do before I relinquish the crag to people with more time than I currently have (read two small children).

http://home.att.net/~preshos