ScottP

Matt, IMO Darrington is the finest climbing area in the state, equalled only by WA Pass and the Enchantments for ambience and character. I sincerely appreciate the activism you have bestowed on the area. Thanks. Scott Presho

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: Yeah, but you guys are forgetting the video. I think it clearly shows that, at the moment of impact, his head jerks backward. But you know what? When I watched it again, I thought that perhaps it was a recoil, which would justify the government's position. I took a lot of flak for this conclusion, but heck, I had to say what I believed. If you watch closely, you will see that there is actually a pause between the forward motion and the backward motion. also, how do you explain the skull fragments moving toward the back...?

quote: Originally posted by chucK: Went and climbed the Tooth in the warm sunshine. Nobody was around. I do think I spotted ScottP up dancing naked on Chair though. Glad I didn't have my binocs. Chuck It would have been a truly ugly site, indeed. (I almost shit my pants climbing over a wet streak on the NE Butt once. If it hadn't been for some stout branches, I would have been nothing but a grease stain down the East face.)

I've climbed the Tooth on several occasions where I was the only person in site. One time I danced naked on the summit just for the hell of it.

"but isn't artificially heating your body's core a bit much?" Is it that much different than using a box on one's desk to find out the conditions/gear list/beta of a route one intends to do so as to improve the chances of success?

I once shared belay stances with Krakauer on Centerfold at Index. From this perception, he is as humble and pleasant as everyone else who has met him has mentioned here. Defining someone based on their writing style seems pretty myopic to me.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I put Jon Krakauer in the Outside School of Journalism with guys like Tim Cahill that can't write three sentences without mentioning themselves. You notice they don't ever write "The landscape was beautiful and desolate", they write "I saw the landscape as beautiful and desolate." Unending me me me me me all thru every book. Is this really a good reason to despise someone?

"pounding the porceline" "hunch and scrunch" "squeezing of a maltese"

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: OK, not the Cascades but a classic nonetheless, the saddle privy between the Grand and Middle Teton. I'll second that...coiling a cobra while the sun sets over the Sawtooths in Idaho and people are sitting on the boulder over your left shoulder enjoying the same view is hard to beat.

quote: Originally posted by OfficeSpace: ScottP, Do you expect us to believe that you succumbed to your partners begging if he was belaying from the ground? I would find it hard to believe that your partner would be begging while sitting on the flats. Tell us to how much of a hard man you are. So what's got your undies in a bunch spaceboy? I guess he didn't want to see me rip my gear and hit the ground. I wanted to see if it would go without clipping the bolts, but used the chicken bolts after 5 or 6 placements. Not quite the hard man material you're looking for, I suppose. I do find it interesting how you read that into my post. Inference can be a bitch sometimes. [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 10-15-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Matt: How many of you who have aided this crack have clipped the bolts? Just curious. I remember lots of creaky hook moves... I remember using lots of tiny rp's and thinking that I would rip them all if one came out. Several placements up I succumbed to my partners begging that I clip one of the bolts.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: So now we got S&M - meteorological vinculation is starting to sound like "golden showers". You guys can sure name your routes down there at Index! Read some Freud into this one: "Brad Discoll Outnumbered His Guests By One, But A Good Time Was Had By All."

quote: Originally posted by Dru: what is meteorological vinculation anyways? sounds like SPRAY to me. "vinculation" is a bonding or tieing together. What it has to do with meteorology and why only 10%, I don't know.

quote: Originally posted by Matt: Dru, you are right. Amandala is the arete. Is the crack directly to the right of the Amandala arete called Ten Percent? I'm not sure what it is. I think it is the second pitch of Iron Horse.

That's a mighty big area you are asking about. If you are visiting the North Coast (Humboldt County), there is: http://www.cranc.com/index.html Good luck Jim.

quote: Originally posted by Rafael H: OK, now list them. Seriously. Only please leave the Vantage Choss alone. I know this is going to get some hackles up, but there was a time when Little Si wasn't a sport climbing area. A couple of friends and I climbed the crack routes there before the place was mobbed. Anyway, at Little Si, Amphetamines and Reptiles can be well protected without the bolts.

The first pitch of the Golden Arch at Index (the one off the ground) is a good, fairly easy aid pitch. Has good placements, a camhook move or two, and more good placements. Try to avoid free routes that get a lot of traffic. (Godzilla, Thin Fingers, Davis Holland, etc.) [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 10-05-2001).]

The following comment is the perfect example of why beginners should be wary of what they read on such resources as this website. "If a 'biner snaps, your fall increases, but you still live." I'd add to that a strong "maybe". [This message has been edited by ScottP (edited 10-08-2001).]

quote: Originally posted by EddieE: So here's a question: What do you guys do when someone yells "Rock!" Do you: 1) Look up to see if you can avoid it, and catch it in the teeth? 2) Duck your head knowing that the single baseball sized rock that's Plinko-ing down the gully will land right where you're standing...but on top of your helmet? [This message has been edited by EddieE (edited 10-02-2001).] I tend to look up. Probably not a good idea, but then a baseball sized rock travelling at, or near, terminal velocity is probably not going to be stopped by the top of a helment.

The first time I went into Boston Basin, we arrived at the trail head after dark, so decided to sleep there. Sometime during the night I was awakened by the sound of the world coming to the end. By the time it was over, I was standing in the middle of the road with my headlamp sweeping about trying to find out what it was that was about to bury me. It wasn't until the sun came up (after not sleeping for the rest of the night) that I looked up to see the source of the midnight terror.

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: damn you guys for reoppening this thread, im trying to forget about it. scott- you know exactly what the caveman meant(a 5.8 at those places is of similar difficulty as one in yosemite) stop antagonizing him. I did not know what he meant and I'm not antogaonizing anybody. Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I found a lot of the ratings are pretty close at Lworth and Index as well as Tieton since they match Yosemite. The ratings at those three areas are similar because they match Yosemite? That didn't make sense to me so I asked for clarification. If I wanted to antagonize I would have said something like, "Yeah, right. Show me a 5.6 chimney pitch at any of those locations that is of the same difficulty as those on the upper DNB." But I didn't.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I found a lot of the ratings are pretty close at Lworth and Index as well as Tieton since they match Yosemite. I'm curious as to what you mean by "since they match Yosemite".

slander n. 1.Oral communication of false statements injurious to a person's reputation. libel n. 1. A false publication in writing, printing, or typewriting or in signs or pictures that maliciously damages a person's reputation.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Scottp who cares what he was toproping. B] I was merely putting the meetings in context. What routes were being done had nothing to do with my comment.

quote: Originally posted by Alpine Tom: I don't think that Mallory was being facetious with his "because it's there" justification for climbing Mt. Everest. The full context of the remark begins with him saying, (to paraphrase) "We justify the desire to climb Everest in terms of gaining scientific knowledge about physiology and geology and try to find fossils high in the rock. But we know that’s a ruse, we want to climb it simply because it's there." B] I've read an account that is somewhat different than yours. Mallory was on a lecture tour after the 1922 expedition, trying to raise money for the 1924 attempt. Everywhere he went, he was asked mundane questions like: Was it cold? Where is Tibet? Why do you want to climb Everest? In exasperation, and not meaning to be taken seriously, he replied to the latter, "Because it is there." Perhaps your quote comes form subsequent attempts to explain himself. I don't know, I wasn't there.