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Cpt.Caveman

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Everything posted by Cpt.Caveman

  1. This is almost the exact same line as the topo Spagnut has on his site. See the topo link on the link I posted. So there are what now, THREE "routes" on this arete? [tried posting an image of Spagnut's photo, but it won't link] That line avoids the upper section that I mentioned having the shallow offwidth and stuff (including where the face steepens and climbing is more direct and difficult). Some of the lower to mid sections have certainly been done in past and some bolts pitons etc are in place to my knowledge the lower sections left (steeper rock). I think that also Mr Kearny has been up in there poking around and has a route near or on some of this. I cant verify since I dont know him. I have edited my remarks and included the link Jordon entered after taking a closer look at http://www28.brinkster.com/mspagnut/img/prussik_arete_topo.jpg
  2. Cairns part of that line and maybe all of it are what Erik refers to as the Joust. I know some people on this site Szjykowski and cappellini have been on it numerous times. I dont recall if cappellini finished it but I was up there one time on the mtn with cappellini not on this route and there was some looking going on about the last 200 feet. It was discovered to be a large shallow offwidth that may go at a high standard of free climbing. It was mentioned that pitons in small cracks could have been the best pro. I have not talked to him about it since then but he may have sent it or let one his partners finish it up.
  3. I know of at least 5 routes on the face there. Eric has named a few. But not all I think. I certainly think there is room for more independent lines. I am not certain where this route supposedly goes but I understand that Mr Spagnut has done some mountain climbing a little. However to claim a new route on the face depicted in this vicinity might require a little more research before it might be accepted as fact considering the number of people that scale this rock face each year and many that don't report them all the time.
  4. I fell off the crux of this thing before. I cannot remember who was belaying but I want to say it might have been Charlie GregW or Dan Hughes on belay. My gear held fine but it was precisely placed in what I thought was the best manner. It held. Also I know Dan fell off it once before and was held as well. Fun stuff for drunkards as long as nobody is hurt.
  5. Bears are wild animals. I am not surprised. Darwin award is being mailed. Attached is a photo of David Parker's butt and 2 young grizzly bears we saw a couple of months ago. Don't mess with bears. All these people who research them or get too close are dumb not to have a BFG with them IMHO.
  6. No it's barely about to come in shape or when most consider would be the prime time. Storm cycles with some cooler temps up high might do well. It's a better route than Triple Coolers and the mountains around there are a lot cooler looking IMO. I agree with all of Paco Taco's comments too. I would not let the road closure stop me.
  7. In response to this comment by Drew- The propose name I have is the Turtlehead but it can be identified as a turtlehead poking out of the glacier if you look close from the east. Whether or not I identify it as and or relate it as a reference to you comment could be true or false. One may even identify a turtle's eye. Fishing in Texas bayous might help the mind a bit.
  8. Drew Brayshaw wrote- In a climbing guide there are lots of areas where information is compiled from sources. It is not always feasible to quote sources. Also in Fred's Range of Glaciers he does give credit to Harry Majors. On the other hand - perhaps there is an element of rivalry or play at work. Yes maybe so. I just want to expose this possibility now. I respect, acknowledge and concurr with lots of Mr. Majors reporst and writings. Going back earlier in this thread.. There was some talk about Twin Spires or Twin Peaks.... Do we really consider this situation disdain or disregard? Logically no is my guess. The controversy still exists on the naming at Ragged Ridge and until there are more facts presented the assumptions of disdain etc are really not backed by facts. Although I believe some imply they might or should be clouded in this controversy regarding disrespect of disregard to a first climb... Let's see. Or maybe we will not see. But if we will not see let's also not be forced into assumption equaling fact.
  9. John Roper wrote- Yes I believe this to be also correct. I also understand that the relation to names on Ragged Ridge is not necessarily related to this at all. On that note it is too easy to assume in a forum where FB is not available to debate that he disregarded naming conventions inspired by Mr Roper as seemingly suggested until we have some facts and or more information to base that upon. -RB
  10. I filled out the survey and quoted some of TG's remarks as well as commented on the whole "dry rope" deal.
  11. Yes they just want to know who the dumb climbers are I guess.
  12. No, just had a partner who preferred to hit Squamish, it's closer, and we were looking for lots of long cracks. Besides, you're the ultimate in climber-cool, Matt. Matt saved me from a small slide on icy terrain in the Coast Range this year with the all standard old school hip belay with no anchor perched on some rocks. That WAS cool. Although he claims his memory does not recall mine did. Reasoning behing me being the front man finding the greens and passing them on. A small price to pay.
  13. I agree. And since I am closer to seattle than dru I will gladly take anyone's unwanted tri cams for transfer to dru
  14. GIRL YOU DON"T KNOW WHAT YOU'RE MISSIN!! oh wait... me too. all but the last one Hahha marylou, you definitely dont seem like the dirty sort of hippy that does not shower. But SOME jobs do let the employees have a little while on company time. It's great
  15. Harry Majors said the following quotes- Yes Fred has personally acknowledge you as a good researcher and historian. In fact he brought your name to light without any inquiry on my part when we were in the Monarch Icefields this summer. He really did not have much to say about it other than wondering if you were still around. It was a neat coincidence that just prior to our trip you started posting historical information. I don't want you to be "silent" but I just wanted to be sure that I understand you are not making politically correct attacks and instead making valid conflicts as you have presented well. Yes his books have errors and we all know this. Although some can easily call this the job of the author... Climbing is a unique thing and gathering the amount of facts that he has presented\published with respect to coordination with numerous editor mistakes that I have seen him catch and review we should also keep this in mind. Thanks for contributing Harry. I still enjoy your info and do like to poke into your writings that you have sent me and I am happy to read every now and then. -RB
  16. The best option. I leave mine on and go to the lab just like you mentioned. But I dont work in a cubicle so it's not bothering others as much as mentioned. Only snoops or people looking to make an excuse to get bothered.
  17. Yes they can be. They are good pieces to supplement a rack at a lower price than a normal caming unit. Some of my partners complain about them being such. But with a little more care, experience in use, and a little more eyeballing they are a great addition to a rack sometimes. They fit into the rock a couple of different ways and if you get one in well they can be "a no worry piece of pro". Try out the pink and red a little more and you might get some. They are also excellend in horizontal cracks. I seem to be able to trust them more than a regular camming unit many times in this situation.
  18. NO WAY!!!!??? the news media misleading the public!!!!!!!!!!! This is news
  19. When using microshaft os go to start run Type in mspaint then select enter Then file open - open your file then to the image and sketch/skew Specify size in percentage until it is smaller than or = to the necessary size.
  20. I am also a fan of the pink and red. I also like having the dark and regular blue as backups for thin hands and hands. THanks for the note. Mine still look good. Peter Pubic although we may disagree on most everything except scaling things thank you.
  21. THat doesnt jive with what I have heard from rumors. I heard that TC was attempted but whatever.
  22. Town Crier.
  23. Ray said, "Whether there is some animosity or difference you two may have is up to you. I dont really care." Well, you must care because you felt the need to stick up for your idol and personal friend in your last post. I guess you are right. However Fred is not here to defend himself while discussion goes on and assumptions are made that may not necessarily be true. I agree with your other comments.
  24. Harry, When you refer to my comments you have made several assumptions. The peaks I propose names for are not in the Cascades as mentioned above. Also - when I say arrogant I did not alienate anyone. I am using in the term not calling the climbers arrogant. I think you have read into it a bit. There is nothing for me to discuss. As far as the corrections for fred's work that seems important. But let's not be so charging and defiant about his progress in compiling what is in fact an in depth guidebook for our range. Give the man some respect. You seem to be at the ready to make critical jabs without care. Whether there is some animosity or difference you two may have is up to you. I dont really care. -RB
  25. note the farfrompuken shirt
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