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GAPERS UNITE!!

http://new.volvocars.com/models/c70coupe/ GRAMS HAS ONE AND IT IS QUITE QUICK.

Personally, I would consider climbing gyms much like the brothels. You can get laid outside in the real world with a little effort. But for those who either have not enough gumption, self-esteem or are just plain ugly there are the brothels/climbing gyms. Why pay for climbing, when there is an abundance of it out there for free! The weather excuse is a poor one, as well! You live in the P.N.W. and you know it is gonna rain and rain alot, adapt and try climbing when it is wet. Your technique will improve more then you could ever know. Now you will focus on your foot work and breathing. Use that over priced coated nylon jacket for somehting other then your stroll down the coffe shop. So if anyone is interested you can buy my book. "The Self-Rightous Climber!"

Crack climbing is the natural line up a mountian, it can be protected without harming the rock and allows elegant smooth upward progress. Each person has their "special" tricks that allow for a efficent ascent of a crack. Thumbs up jams are strongest and llow for longer reaches between the jams. Not always possible, but every chance you get you should try. Mr. Pope is right a solid hand jam is a rest, especially on those harder routes. Soon you will be searching for the hand jam just to de-pump, so you can move throught that rattaly fingers section. Each movement should be upwards, just like ice climbing. If you are constantly shuffling your feet and hands to secure yourself you are losing precious energy. Foot work is also essential, as the order of foot movement really depends on the climb. Finger cracks usually require a high pain tolerance. Basically i try to jam my knuckles behind constrictions and move as fast as possible. Offwidths bear and grin it. Technique depends on the size and oriantation. Hope my ideas help, as they are how I do it. Maybe we can get out soon and i will show you what i mean.

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BOLT MONSTER SITS DOWN WITH “RESPECTED PNW CLIMBER” B.M.- SO HOWS IT GOING LATELY BUDDY? P.N.W- NOT TOO BAD GOT SOME REALLY NICE PROJECTS IN THE WORKS. KIDS ARE DOING GREAT AND I JUST GOT A NEW MIRROR FOR MY HELMET, SO I CAN SEE MY BIGGEST FAN ALL TIME. ME! B.M.- THAT’S GREAT P. YOU MIND LETTING THE REST OF US UNRESPECTED FOOLS INTO YOUR BAG OF PROJECTS. P.N.W.- WELL…ERRRR….AHEM….SURE!? THIS PAST MONTH I HAVE GONE OUT AND CLIMBED ALL THE MAJOR ROADCUTS ALONG I-90. GREAT ROCK, YOU JUST HAVE TO REMOVE ALL THE CHOSS ON TOP. YOU KNOW WITH THE NEW HILTI BOLT GUN, IT MAKES THE GRID BOLTING NOT JUST A DREAM, BUT A REALITY. IT IS A DREAM OF MINE TO MAKE THE IRON HORSE TRAIL A SPORT CLIMB, KIND OF LIKE A MY COUP DE TAT OF RESPECTED P.N.W. CLIMBS. B.M.- JEEZ, THAT SOUND SLIKE A LOT OF WORK THAT MAYBE NOT EVERYONE WILL APPRECIATE. P.N.W.- WHAT DO YOU MEAN? B.M.- WELL…LOOKING AT YOUR PAST RESPECTED RETRO BOLTING OF PUBLIC LAND, THE PUBLIC OUTCRY WAS IMMENSE. IT SEEMED THAT PEOPLE QUITE DIDN’T SHARE THE SAME VIEW WITH YOU. SOME OTHER LOCAL CLIMBERS EVEN WENT AS FAR AS TO THE RESTORE THE ROUTE. HAVE YOU GOTTEN ANY FEED BACK FROM THE PUBLIC ON YOUR NEW PROJECT? P.N.W.- CERTAINLY, I’VE TALKED TO MY BROTHER AND LIKE 5 OF MY CLOSEST FELLOW RESPECTED PNW CLIMBERS. THEY ALL THOUGHT THAT IT WOULD BE GREAT. A ROUTE THAT EVERYONE WHO HAS LITTLE SKILL OR SENSE OF ADVENTURE COULD COMPLETE. THIS WAY, WE BRING THE SPORT THE MASSES. THIS PROJECT IS NOT JUST ROADSIDE, IT IS THE ROAD. I MEAN THE IDEALS ARE GREAT. B.M.- SO, WHAT YOU ARE DOING IS TO MAKE CLIMBING A NEW MARKET, SOMETHING THAT IS SAFE AND FUN AND CARRIES LITTLE OF THE PAST HISTORY AND ADVENTURE OF THE SPORT? P.N.W.- WHAT DO YOU MEAN HISTORY? RETRO-BOLTING HAS BEEN ONLY AROUND SINCE THE 80’S. THERE’S NO HISTORY THERE. AND YES I WANT EVERYONE TO CLIMB. B.M.- DO YOU WORK AT R.E.I.? P.N.W.- maybe B.M.- SO, WHAT ELSE DO YOU HAVE IN THE WORKS? ANY NEW BIG FIRST ASCENTS IN YOUR SIGHTS? P.N.W.- SOME OF US REPSPECTED P.N.W. CLIMBERS HAVE BEEN TOYING WITH IDEA OF DYNAMITING CASTLE ROCK. THAT WAY EVERYONE CAN HAVE A PIECE. WE PLAN TO ATTACH A BOLT TO EACH STONE, SO THEY CAN CLIP IT THEIR KEY CHAINS. WE CAME UP WITH IDEA ONE RAINY DAY. I WAS DRVING PAST CASTLE ROCK IN A DOWN POUR, I LOOKED UP AT THE CRAG AND NO ONE WAS CLIMBING! SO I FIGURED THAT NO ONE WOULD MIND IF I TURNED IT INTO A PILE OF SHIT THAT ALL COULD FELL THEY HAD CONQUERED SOMETHING GREAT. B.M.- SERIOUSLY?! P.N.W.- WHY NOT, ALL MY FRIENDS SAID IT SOUNDED GOOD. B.M.- WHAT OF THE PEOPLE THAT STILL ASPIRE TO CLIMB IT. P.N.W.- COME ON, WHO WOULDN’T WANT A PIECE OF CASTLE, IT’S OLD AND SINCE SOMEONE CHOPPED MY NEW SPORT ROUTE. I GOT THE IDEA THAT NO ONE CLIMBED THERE ANY MORE. JUST LOOK. LITTLE SI, WHAT A HAVEN YOU CAN GO THERE WITH NO ETHICS AND LIMITED TECHNIQUE AND PRACTICALLY CONQUER THE CRAG. THEN THERE IS INDEX, HARDLY ANYONE GOES THERE AND IT TAKES BALLS TO CLIMB THERE. THIS IS THE 21ST CENTURY MAN, WE ARE MASS-COMSUMERISM, LAZY, FAT AND UNISPIRED AMERICANS, DO AWAY WITH YOUR IDEALS AND TURN TO THE SLACK MIND EASE OF SPORT CLIMBING. B.M.- YOU KNOW P.N.W. IT HAS BEEN GREAT TALKING TO YOU, SINCE YOU ARE SOOOOO RESPECTED. BUT THEN AGAIN WHO YOU ARE OR WHAT YOU HAVE DONE, OTHER THEN TO DEFACE WHAT IS ALL OF OURS AND NOT JUST YOUR FELLOW RESPECTED P.N.W. CLIMBERS. REALLY MAKES ME SICK AND HAS NO BEARING ON HOW I CLIMB. SO IN THE END MAYBE YOU SHOULD LOOK BEYOND YOUR OWN SHORTSIDEDNESS AND INCLUDE EVERYONE INTO YOUR LITTLE RESPECTED P.N.W. CLIMBERS CLUB. MORE PEOPLE THEN YOUR FRIENDS MIGHT HAVE SOMETHING TO SAY ABOUT YOUR ACTIONS. HAVE A NICE DAY.

the pussified generation! as i grow old, i head back to the mountains to wander the crags of my youth. these places that i hold secret and special to my heart. the fresh air, the clean hard rock and the friends...... pristine enviroments, they allowed for escapism from the hurried and dirty life that entails dwelling in the city. not one bit escapes my eye, from cracks and edges to the fine lichen that slowly decomposes the rock. the natural state. peace and enjoyment. countless days and months i have spent here challengeing myself, pushing to become stronger and to hone my abilities to deal with the difficult sections that i come to, while climbing and in life. a worthless pursuit none the less, as i have no positive impact on the society that swarms about me. but does that hurt or even rub like an uncomfortable pack? no! and the reason why? the more of the world i travel through and leave untrammled, the better person i am. if you can experience so much without ever turning it into you, the better we all are. as i approach the bend in the trail that gives me the first glimpse of the musuem that is my favrotie crag, i catch a sparkle on the cliff...... what tha................................. ^&*^*&(^%&(^(*^&^(^&*^(^&&(_)^$%^#$%@!#!_^%&*$%$!@~%%":":?{)O&*&%^%^$$&$^$*%(%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&%(&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_)*(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@*$($^#$!@~?><{)_*(*%^$^ &%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&%(&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_)*(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@*$($^#$!@~?><{)_*(*%^$^&%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&%(&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_)*(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@* $($^#$!@~?><{)_*(*%^$^&%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&%(&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_)*(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@*$($^#$!@~?><{)_*(*%^$^&%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&%(&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_) *(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@*$($^#$!@~?><{)_*(*%^$^&%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&%(&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_)*(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@*$($^#$!@~?><{)_*(*%^$^&%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&% (&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_)*(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@*$($^#$!@~?><{)_*(*%^$^&%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&%(&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_)*(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@*$($^#$!@~?><{) _*(*%^$^&%%*(^&*&)(*___+*_&%(&*^*)%^$%@!~~#@!$$*^*)&(*_)*(?>?_((*%&*%&%&*$%$@#~@*$($^#$!@~?><{)_*(*%^$^& son of a bitch is all i can mudder out loud, that won't wake my mother' soul. my pace and pulse quickens i scramble closer to the devistation. thoughts of of industrial crag comes to mind, all those eysores that litter the crags that abutt the city. have know crept into my little world of tranquility. only after 60 yrs of climbing at this beautiful spot, has man now violated this cliff with his mark of weakenss. bolts! the years of countless arguments against bolting arise to the top of my mind. and questions start to form. who did this? why? what happend to their balls and spine? do i get reimbursed for the destroyed memories? can i kill these people legally? are they aware of their acts of vandalism? what gym do they frequent? as i roam the base of the cliff, i start to notice not just the odd first asscentionist bolt or fixed pin, hand drilled on lead in mountain boots. but new shiney marks littering the cliff face. almost anywhere one could place a bolt, WHAM! this sad spectecle of mankinds theroticial dominance over the natural, does not relay the message of most responsible climbers. just the selfish few who look at themselves as great conquerers helping the masses better understand THEIR sport. sadly enough these short sided individuals have done nothing to help climbing, only hurt it by firing up the dialuoge of climbers impact. we are many users all with different intentions. after an exhaustive search for answers, i leave the cliff dragging my ailing heart behind. i can feel a part of it missing. never again can i consider this sacred cliff heaven, only a whore house to unadventuresome individuals with no foresight. [This message has been edited by bolt monster (edited 07-23-2001).] [This message has been edited by bolt monster (edited 07-23-2001).]

A Word The 1960s marked an awakening in American climbing characterized by a vast increase in climbing activity closely paralleled by a corresponding improvement in technique and equipment. Significant climbing advances have resulted. On the other hand, this combination is producing a serious problem — deterioration of the climbing environment. The deterioration is two-fold, involving the physical aspect of the mountains and the moral integrity of the climbers. No longer can we assume the Earth's resources are limitless; that there are ranges of unclimbed peaks extending endlessly beyond the horizon. Mountains are finite, and despite their massive appearance, they are fragile. Although alpine tundra, meadows, trees, lakes and streams are all endangered, our primary concern here is with deterioration of the rock itself. Granite is delicate and soft — much softer than the alloy steel pitons being hammered into it. On popular routes in Yosemite and elsewhere, the cracks are degenerating into series of piton holes. Flakes and slabs are being pried loose and broken off as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard pitons. We can offer a few immediate solutions. Stay off climbs you do not intend to finish. Don't climb up to Sickle Ledge unless you plan to do the entire Nose. Do not use artificial aid on free climbs. But most of all, start using chocks. Chocks and runners are not damaging to the rock and provide a pleasurable and practical alternative to pitons on most free, and many artificial climbs. Do not use pitons on established clean routes. Where a piton is necessary, a fixed piton should be considered and documented in local guidebooks. Routes of 5.7 difficulty were climbed 60 years ago in England. Today the footholds on these routes are well polished, but because pitons have not been used, the protection cracks are still in mint condition. Equally serious is a moral deterioration. Armed with ever more advanced gadgetry and techniques, the style of technical climbing is gradually becoming so degraded that elements vital to the climbing experience — adventure and appreciation of the mountain environment itself — are being submerged. Siege tactics, bolt ladders, bat hooks, bash chocks, detailed topos and equipment lists, plus a guaranteed rescue, diminish rather than enhance a climb. Even now, existing techniques and technology are so powerful that almost any climb imaginable can be realized, and the fear of the unknown reduced to rote exercise. Mad bolters are among the worst offenders of the alpine environment. Young climbers must learn that bolting is done as a substitute for climbing. Guides, climbing schools and established climbers have a heavy responsibility here. We believe the only way to ensure the climbing experience for ourselves and future generations is to preserve (1) the vertical wilderness, and (2) the adventure inherent in the experience. Really, the only insurance to guarantee this adventure and the safest insurance to maintain it is exercise of moral restraint and individual responsibility. Thus, it is the style of the climb, not the attainment of the summit, which is the measure of personal success. Traditionally stated, each of us must consider whether the end is more important than the means. Given the vital importance of style, we suggest that the keynote is simplicity. The fewer gadgets between the climber and the climb, the greater the chance to attain the desired communication with oneself — and nature. As we enter this new era of mountaineering, re-examine your motives for climbing. Employ restraint and good judgment. Remember the rock, the other climbers — climb clean. -YVON CHOUINARD THIS IS FINE ARTICLE, I THINK IT ALL STILL STANDS TRUE TODAY. [This message has been edited by bolt monster (edited 07-06-2001).]

COLD DAYS & 4X4 YOU CAN GET TO THE ESMERELDA TRAILHEAD.

http://hilti.20m.com/index.html#main IT IS FINALLY HERE. I LOVE AMERICA AND THOSE GUYS FROM LICHTENSTEIN. I AM HEADED UP TO WASHINGTON PASS. AS I TYPE! SO YOU IN HELL!

OH MY GOSH! THAT ISN'T DRUL. YOU CAN TELL BY THE LACK OF TUTU AND PURPLE HAIRS, AND THE CANAJUN FLAG TATOOED TO HIS FOREHEAD. THOUGH I DO BELIEVE THAT YOU HAVE A KILLED A DEMOCRAT. SO CAREFUL OLE BILLY CLINTON MIGHT COME AFTER YOU FOR SHOOTIN' HILARY. THEN AGAIN HE MIGHT NOT.

HE'S NAMED AFTER MY FAVORITE CANAJUN' MAYBE EVEN RELATED.

CPT. CAVEMAN, BELOW S MY RETURN ADDRESS. THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR HELP! 3212 W. Spelmore Ave C-attle, WA 98199 LOST AND LOVE IN SEATTLE BOLT MONSTER

I HAVE TO BEG! HAS ANYONE SEEN MY MAGICAL GOAT DRUL? HE HAS WONDERED FROM HIS RUN OUT IN FRONT OF THE TRAILER. YOU GOTTA UNDERSTAND US DOWN HEAR IN SEATTLE REALLY WORSHIP OUR SHAVED PET GOATS. THIS GOAT IS SPECIAL AS HE CAN RAP BOLT AND OPERATE THE FUSION POWERED BUSCH DRILL. HE HAS PENCHENT FOR PLASTIC CLIMBING HOLDS. HE IS ALSO VERY COM-PET-ITIVE IN THE GYM. HE CRANKS! PLUS HE COOKS A MEAN CAT. EVER HAD CAT WITH AN ORANGE GLAZE SLOW ROASTED OVER A BURNING TIRE..AHHHH HEAVEN. SO PLEASE IF YOU HAVE SEEN DRUL PLEASE SEND HIM HOME WITH AS FEW LIBERTIES TAKEN AS POSSIBLE. I KNOW HOW DIFFICULT THAT WILL BE, BUT PLEASE HE IS EXTREMLY SENSITIVE. THANK YOU! THE BOLT MONSTER P.S. DOES ANYONE WANT HELP ON THEIR PROJECTS. I CAN SHIP WITH THE BEST OF THEM!

ahhh looks like my cave boy and a lil' nucker are gettin' into it. how cute! all this shit talkin is makin' me thirsty! dru have one of your finest wenches bring me uni-brow! and a fire roasted spotted owl. hoot hoot....

I ALWAYS KNEW RAY SMELT LIKE FISH, I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST HIS HYGINE. NOT THAT HE REALLY IS ONE.

DOES ANYONE OBJECT TO ME CHIPPING THE FACE NEXT TO LIB CRACK I JUST SAW THE SWEETEST SERIS OF MOVES. ABOUT 400FT UP I HAVE RENTED THE CHOPPER ALREADY. I PLAN ON AUSSIE RAPPLIN' WITH MY FUSION POWERED BOLT LAZER. THEN GRID BOLTING THE ENITRE FACE. THEN I WANT TO TOP ROPE THE WHOLE THING WITH MY NEW SLACK DIAMOND 400M 3MIL SUPER ROPE SO I KNOW I CAN DO THE MOVES CLEAN SEE YA OUT THERE [This message has been edited by bolt monster (edited 04-13-2001).] [This message has been edited by bolt monster (edited 04-13-2001).]

HOPE NOT

LITLE GIRLS YOU ALL ARE! I WILL EAT YOU LIKE TIFFANY CAMPBELL EATS PERSCRIBED HORMONES IF AIN'T A BOLT THEN YOU AIN'T GOT NO PLACE TO BE. HEAVEN IS CHIPPED POCKET AND SCULTED HOLD