mmcmurra

"Them" at Wall of 10,000 Insects, Index (even featured in photo form on this site!). You have to say it right to get the right effect... THEM.

I like this thread, and I don't want to post off-topic, but this got me thinking...Are there any places in town (Seattle) that have "publicly accessible" cracks with which you could practice placing gear? I'm imagining a small wall (artificial or natural) with a bunch of cracks of various sizes -- doesn't even have to be tall or climbable, just something you could plug some pieces in and equalize 'em, yank on 'em, hang off 'em, etc. I can actually think of a place that has almost all of the desired qualities: in Phinney Ridge, on the north side of NW Market St just before it becomes N 46thSt is a short retaining wall built of large rocks. It has cracks o' plenty, and is on public property, but it's also right by a pretty major street.Anyone know of anything else like this but more secluded? Obviously, if I had the time I'd drive out to a crag, but it sure would be nice to have some urban cracks I can plug for practice. Michael [ 01-12-2002: Message edited by: mmcmurra ]

This thread made me wonder: what are the legal issues regarding buildering in Seattle? Trespassing is an obvious one on private property or "after hours" in a public park, but let's use the Alaskan Way/I-5 columns as an example: what law would you be breaking by monkeying around? Reckless endangerment?I know there are some lawyer-types out there -- what do you guys think? (A friend of mine was arrested for rappelling off the Montlake bridge, but the "charge" was that where he landed was a public park but was "closed" because it was late at night. Jail time ensued and equipment was confiscated! )

ScottP mentioned the hand cracks on the Alaskan Way viaduct; I thought I'd mention the equally excellent cracks on the I-5 supports just north of REI (Mercer St. off-ramp). There are trails crisscrossing the area underneath the on/off-ramps (large homeless population), so approaches are easy and you can get out of sight pretty quickly. There are perfect hand cracks of various lengths up support columns, and some tough-looking fist cracks I haven't checked out yet.Also, when you're downtown, there's the short wide hands cracks in the pedestrian mall on 5th and Pine.Finally, more perfect hands on support columns for pedestrian overpass (above bus stop) on NE Pacific St on UW campus between the Health Sciences Center and main campus. These top out on the overpass, so easy walk-off. Have fun,Michael

Around 2 - 3 pm Sat. 6/23 we noticed a helicopter come up from out of the river side of the coulee and over the parking lot/camping area, then stopped and came in low over the Feathers, then did something out of view and left. Anyone know if this was related to an accident/injury? (BTW, I wouldn't have minded inducing some injuries myself on the group playing drums all Friday night, by their open fire... )

That's the name, BS! Now it's all beginning to make sense... 5.6? Bullshit! Seriously, though: what did you think of the rating, Dru? I usually don't worry too much about numbers, only when I have to cheat off the bolt to get by! It certainly does get a high score on the sand index; that's the only route I've ever done where I had to unearth the belay bolts -- I'm still only assuming they're actually into rock somewhere underneath all that sand. Maybe Viktor could be of some assistance here... quote: Originally posted by Dru: You mean "BS"? They should have named that thing "Dune" - I kept waiting for the giant sandworm to attack while I was climbing that (and that was a few years ago when it was cleaner...?). There's more sand on that pitch than there is at the whole of Peshastin. What gives?? P.S. Pope, I checked Viktor's guidebook the other day and it shows the route going up the slab right past the bolt, so I don't think it's a case of a bolt placed on rappel that is a little off route, "route" being the path of least resistance. It's also a pretty old bolt, placed at what would have been a very good stance to place on lead. [This message has been edited by mmcmurra (edited 06-14-2001).]

Forgive me, Father, for I have sinned, in many ways. This is a combined confession and a question, so bear with me... Last summer I found myself in Leavenworth with a few hours to kill, my girlfriend, and a sport rack. Using Smoot's "Rock Climbing in Washington" (Sin #1) I decided to go for Overachiever (5.8), including the "approach" pitch (I forget the name) 5.6 sandy slab below. The short story is that I led it without gear, but had to aid past the "5.6" crux (yarding on the quickdraw; Sin #2). Then at the next pitch I got a decent way up the flakes toward the first bolt (which is at 40'?) and decided I'd had enough and retreated (Sin #3). Then a few weeks ago I decided to bring the rack this time and try again. On the 5.6 pitch, I only placed one hex below the bolt but then was stymied again getting past it. I had just led Groping for Oprah's Navel an hour or so before without problems, but I was stuck here again. So I finally went way left and found a knob to gain some mungy creases and a weak alien placement, then to the top. This felt like solid 5.8, and I'm sure I was off route (Sin #4). Finally, after passing the flakes of Overachiever and reaching the first bolt, I skipped it, because I didn't trust the flaring nut placements and the little tree I'd slung below and was intimidated by the remaining 5.8+ face climbing required to reach the first bolt (Sin #5). Instead, I went up some sandy pockets to the left, then scooted over and clipped the second bolt, to end the runout. Is there any hope for redemption, pope? Also, what's up with that 5.6 pitch? Can I ever hope to send it? I await my penance... mmcmurra [This message has been edited by mmcmurra (edited 06-13-2001).]

On good ol' Q13 Reports last night they seemed to give a pretty even cast to the story; while the climbers definitely came off as tired and maybe a little resentful of all the media, the report made sure to mention that, as stated in the P-I's article, the park rangers thought they did everything right, and also that the climbers personally thanked the rescuers afterwards and were very grateful.

This was discussed on rec.climbing not too long ago; here's a long link to the thread: http://groups.google.com/groups?hl=en&lr=&safe=off&ic=1&th=d83c5ef0ddbc1112&seekd=950219941#950219941 The consensus seemed to be that they were a great deal on sound gear. I'm thinking Rock Empire is to Trango what Clog Cam is to Wild Country. Michael

I found reference to this Index route in the "New Route Log" section of the Rock & Ice web site. The description is tantalizing (I'll include it below), and I'm curious to know a little more about it. Does anyone know what kind of pro it takes and where to get that topo? I apologize if the route is listed in the new "Sky Valley Rock" guide -- I haven't checked it out yet. Thanks, Michael From http://www.rockandice.com/index.phtml?section=new_route_category&route_cat_id=41&category=Washington 5.10 crack 500 yds west of Rattle tale wall. "A modern classic(in my opinion) it goes from hand crack to offwidth back to hand crack to chimmney to slab to overhanging jugs. How was this one missed till now? Pro is excellent. Topo available. Hardest move is exiting the chimmeny(don't stem tree)." Mike Schaefer, Erik Snyder & Allen Leber

Two weeks ago I ordered a pair of Mythos. $65 + $10 shipping plus possibly some duty that I haven't found out about yet (I expect no more than 10%). Got here in 5 days. Hard to beat that price! Good luck, Michael