Lambone

Ok officespace, obviously you have absolutely no sense of humor. I never insulted or threatened you whatsoever, you are just taking a bunch of sarcastic remarks personaly. Why don't you just stay in you cubicle where you will be nice and safe, and GET OVER IT. Dru, did chongo haul the Asian girl up the route!?

Good question Yossarian, yes it is something to be worried about! First, a static fall on to a daisy generates at least a factor 2 fall if not greater. Which is enough to severly tweak your back, and sends the impact forces on to your piece through the roof. The real problem comes when you daisy fall on a hard aid climb, you risk ripping the pitch. What can you do about it? I get my daisy off ASAP. After I bounce the piece above, and commit to it, I unclip my last daisy and flip the rope in. Once the rope is in you are golden. I have heard (from petzl rep) that spectra daisies are more static than regular nylon. Adjustable daisys may slip under a factor 2 fall. And yates now makes a daisy with a mini screamer built in. The best thing, get the rope in and your daisy off!

I second that. The PMI rep. said sharpies are fine.

Erik, Who upgraded it? It is still 5.9 in every guide book I've seen. And if they up grade that route, they'll have to upgrade every 5.9 squeez in Yosemite! But really fellas this is spacey's thread, quit intruding!

Hey spacey take it easy! I wasn't implying anything. I just thought it was a little odd that you would even compare climbing 5.9 at Little Si to an alpine route like the North Ridge. My fiancee can climb 10c at Little Si... but she wouldn't even think about doing the North Ridge. See what I mean? Its like apples and oranges. Don't get so defensive. P.S. Marshall at Feathered Friends has a good topo of the lower section. If all goes as planned I should be rolling out of my bivi sac before you make it to the bottom of the ridge. Will you catch me...? I think not. But good luck. If you do I will shake your hand. Peace. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

We are thinking about starting the ridge at the halfway point via. the coulior from Stuart Glacier. Does anybody out there know if it is icy in that coulior? I'd really prefer to leave the crampons in the closet! Hey officespace, I hate to say it, but I hope you've done something a bit more alpine than Little Si... Good luck. We should be a day ahead of you. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

Hey officespace, I am really sorry I intruded on YOUR thread. I didn't realize it was yours. I thought maybe anyone could post on it. That is just how this website has worked in the past. I will be sure to remmber not to post on YOUR threads again... Also, I really hope I don't get in YOUR way on YOUR climb. In fact, I will be real carefull not to knock any rocks of of YOUR mountain onto YOUR head. Since you claim to be a 5.9 hardman, who can climb any 5.9 anywhere. I would assume you could offer some beta on the Steck-Salathe route in the Valley. It is one of my "projects." Anyway, now that we all know you can climb any 5.9 at Little Si, you can relax. No need to impress any of us PNW hardmen anymore... Come on dude, by claiming that you think you are ready for the North Ridge because you you can climb 5.9 at Little Si, you are just begging for spray! I am not an evil person, I just couldn't resist. This is all just fun and games, relax... All sarcasm aside, the boys at Feathered Friends have some good beta on the Lower Ridge. They should be nice enough to help you out. If you pass me on the route I hope you have time to stop and puff a bowl! Peace Dog. [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

Whatever dude, good for you. And yes, I will have fun biving on the route. Have fun on your sufferfest!

Is this a T-Klan only event, or are all welcome?

Cool, thanks Kyle!

Last time I was down we bivied under the walls after fixing ropes. I hear its illegal, but I've never seen Rangers up there. Maybe we were just lucky. If the rangers start to recognize you in C4, just go climb a wall, they'll forget after a few days!

Direct sun kills mildew. But I have never heard of anything that can kill the smell!

At least people won't be board at work tommorow. Namaste...

I see your point. I have never placed a bolt, rivit, or chipped a hold in my life. I am not interested in dangerous crag routes, or ones that are way above my limit. I don't go there, please don't start threatening me. (that goes for you caveman) My opinion is this: people shouldn't bolt routes only to suite their needs. They are basicaly commiting an act of vandalism on public or private land as it is. Therefore, they should bolt a route in a manner that is safe for everyone that has to look at them. I'm not talking about Vantage 2ft spreads. I'm talking about not hitting the ground. It is selfish, and wrong to do otherwise. Ok, sure... puting a bolt next to a crack is a different issue. It's lame, enough said. But in my opinion, if someone goes out and retrobolts a route, the damage is done. The scar is there. You might as well make the best out of it. What the hell good does it do to go out and chop a route leaving a gnarly hunk of metal in the rock, just to prove your point. If you say that bolts shouldn't be placed when you can toprope a route, well then hell you'd better buy alot of crowbars! You'll be up in the Icicle for months.

Burdo has told me that he's working on a project up there. But thats about all he said. The information might be confidential...

Fuck tests!

Slow and heavy, thats my moto, especialy on walls.

You know what, Jim is right. I don't even really care about the stupid route, or the whole bolting controversy. Bolts next to cracks piss me off too. It's your freakin' attitude that gets my goat, I mean Lamb... I bet you feel as self rightious as that french guy Luc, who put a chisel to some of the best boulder problems in the world just to prove a point. I'd just like to see any of you guys get up on DDD now that its restored. I'll give ya a good belay, I promise... [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-20-2001).]

Stick it up your ass!

What, you want to make this some kind of war? You think you deserve a medal? Maybe I should go rally up a posse and go put bolts up next to Godzilla. Then I'll rap down and strip 'em with a crowbar. I'd do it just to piss you lame asses off. I'd be following in Hardings footsteps. The fact is that what you did is'nt really going to make a difference to anyone. All that it means is one less safe lead climb at Castle Rock. I am sure every climber that passes by that spot is really going to appreciate your handiwork, sure... Why don't you go pull off all those rusty old bolts all over the Lower wall while your at it. No one does those climbs anyway. Your fighting a pointless battle Retro. Face it man, your ethic is dead in this day and age. Get over it. Let people climb safely and be happy. If you don't like the bolts, don't clip 'em. There are plenty of other climbs with ground fall potential, go find one and get on it. Good luck...

Wil, in my experience: sometimes- burly climbing = loud mouth assholiness sometimes- burly climbing = quiet compassion Point is it can definately go both ways, it depends on the persons ego. Some of the greatest people-men and women- I have met are incredible climbers and some have made me want to puke... Bottom line is leave the stereotypes to golfers. Unless you are talking about the Klan that is!

Yeah, I'd rather not know who Dwayner is. His mystery intrigues me. It would figure that he studies old bones and fossils though! First hand experience would make him an expert on the subject ... I am sure he just loves the fact that there are people on the internet trying to figure out who he really is. My opinion...who cares! [This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-19-2001).]

Erik, you have three hands? That must be exiting!! Bet it helps you get the job done faster, before your boss peeks over the cubicle!

Oh yeah, "the untouchables". Thats some crazy shit... Erik and Dru sittin' in a tree, KISSING, firt comes love, then comes...

Whatch it Sp.Ed, just remember what happened last time. You come up on me too quik and I'll just have to let 'um fly!!!