LUCKY

I prefer not to touch anything old or take from the natural usless it's a trail,DANGER from rock fall or overuse thing at the top and I useually have to be ask and I only use less visual ring anchors. If you want anchors on something hash it out here. Every route should be considered separately. You can count me in for some good karma PR work I am really getting out there with this post....scary

Dude you think Vantage blows but you climb at the mud pile what up with dat? some of those cracks wig me out its like plug'n gear in what looks like mud and the sport climbing... the whole place is a slab The anti smith has some cool stuff off by yourself ... go to the right at the bridge .

Yeah! I think I will pull on some plastic Sunday. Just coming in from outside, it takes a few visits to get that plastic dialed. You know , to the point where I can crank 5.7

Yo Szyjakowski Climbing real rock in December what up with dat! RUMR says that place totaly blows, plastic is way better

Yo JETT all I am talking about is if someone will put out the effort to clean some of the dirty cracks at Vantage and turn them into classics I will buy and install the anchors and if you put out a little blood and sweat you can put your name on them.

Shut up Rudy Put a sock in Rudys mouth Yo RUMR now thats funny

The whole place is a choss pile and I would not even go there if not for the bomber solid stuff on sunshine wall aka: the bowling alley

My sweetie has been at my heals for years , it makes me climb harder A rope gun with a cute butt beats A sausage any day Girls ROCK could you put the rope up for me...my ego can handle it.

This 'community' is overrun by reactionary, knee-jerk, arm chair quarterbacks who fill these threads with pointless drivel. Sure, it's fun to read sometimes, but calling it 'the' climbing community is really a stretch. Now thats a quote I will remember Blackbelt internet keyboard climbers

All the devices you have mentioned I have tried, The Ushba basic ascender is by far the best Tope rope device , the rope slides easly through the device, it does not require a chest sling, it hooks right to a biner in your harness, is rope friendly , light in weight , is also used as an accender, is cheaper than other devices .the biner hole is small so less likely to crosslaod with a pearbiner . I have been using the Ushba for three years putting up new routes with out a problem. DO NOT use it for leading I have a soloist I will sell you, once I got the Ushba I let Yoder use it be careful if you use the soloist it is easy to make mistakes with it.

I have used the rock exotica soloist The ushba basic accender for a top rope but you can't lead with it like the soloist but than again leading with the soloist

The fire pit camping spot known as Elvis rock by the locals was cleaned this weekend, unbelievable the amount of nails around that pit, the trusty big magnet on a rope worked it's magic , if I could just find a way to clean up all that glass. Good party saturday night but we crashed too early from being spanked that day, LW was out to after 10 putting up a route by head lamp .... now thats a bold accent...hardest working dude in climbing

CBS I am willing to buy and install anchors on any crack of value that you or any one will retro clean in the coulee. Good TR

In good faith could the person that bolted on the hold remove it, could the names under the routes in marker be removed,Let the climbers that climb at Dishman decide what stays and what goes as far as bolts, this would make the crag more appealing to most. In good faith could Dane let the access issues that effect ALL of us be worked out by Lane and MattP. Either side that can't handle that has a real EGO problem! Don't shoot I'm an innocent bystander LUCKY

For the past few weekends bags of trash have been removed from the camping area 2 firepits were cleaned out last weekend. When you camp clean up your area , if everyone helps just a little it makes it easy. Way cool party with the canadians last saturday night

Oh Coulee, Oh Coulee, we're finally back...... With chalk bags, rock shoes, and dreams in our packs... Yankin' and Crankin' in the sun with our friends, Oh please dear Rock God bring us lots of new sends. Love the Moon and the stars and partying round the pits, but this political stuff is just simply the shits. poem by Mary Hume Our main concern is that we retain access to the climbing area and our camping. I believe that all climbers that love that area do their best and more to adhere to all climbers values. Pack out more than you bring in. Don't bust the Crust, and Admire and Adhere to what mother nature has behoved us. We love and appreciate the area, and please let us know, how we can continue to enjoy and help keep this area open to climbers, hikers, and folks who are just beginning to love our Washington's beauty. Mary, Lucky's gal.

It actually was a Mr Andy Harrington and his crew I just took the pictures. Mary and I did pick up a couple of bags trash ourselves to take out, I have a magnet on a rope that works great for the never ending nails from the pallet burning.

A flatbed truck full of Dave Matthews Band trash was taken out of the camping area by a group of climbers this weekend, these are the real hero's of climbing As always the climbers that camp at the coulee take out more than they bring and clean up whenever we camp there. Unbelievable what that 3 day DMB concert did to the camping area

I am hard of hearing, that makes me talk louder for emphasis at key points in a conversation

My sweetie got me a copy of THE ROCK WARRIOR'S WAY by Arno Ilgner for my birth day, It was suggested by a good climbing friend. When I first saw the cover and read under the title MENTAL TRAINING FOR CLIMBERS I kinda went oh no I found it to be more of a philosphy of life and climbing than mental training, still one of the more enjoyable books I have read. I found THE ROCK WARRIOR'S WAY reinforced and put into prespective my beliefs about EGO, SELF WORTH AND SAVORING THE JOURNEY OF THE PRESENT The Rat Race from THE ROCK WARRIOR'S WAY Early in our lives we are taught to be competitive and value achievement and results. We are encouraged to "make something of ourselves" or to "get ahead" the emphasis is on a future destination, for which we will sacrifice the satisfaction of the present. Ironically, once we arrive at a destination ... landing that sought after job, climbing 5.12 grade.. we find it's not a final destination at all. we aren't satisfied to stay there. We may even look back nostalgically to the passion we possessed when we considered that destination a magical promised land, before we realized it was simply the end of the jorurney. inevitably we begin a new journey, and a new one after that. in fact, our entire lives are spent journeying. The warrior is the ultimate realist. He knows that life is a journey, and rather than rushing blindly toward the next destination, he appreciates the journey itself and consciously lives within it.

Yakimuchacho, You and your partner can tie in with us any time and this board has you to thank for getting me stoked to post the bata for the routes

New routes at Lava Point Deadhead wall, the first climb coming in from the east. Steal your face 5.10-C named after the lighting bolt skull emblem of the dead FA Lucky and Mary Dream wall, to find this wall continue west along the top of the cliff till you find a karn on top of a stump and the descent gully. This wall has the biggest Lava jugs you have ever seen The second climb as you head west, Imbibing Neon Dream Emerging Ever Despondent( INDEED ) 5.10-B the name was inspired by LW, climbs jugs of frothy lava rock to thin power move FA Lucky and Yoder. Further west toward the end of the wall the route going out the largest roof NOTHING ELSE MATTERS 5.11-B climb straight out the roof to a bolt on the lip, has been led clipping the bolt on lead but unless your solid on horizontal 11-B moves or wired it on top rope like I did, I would advise a stick clip, ring anchors down from cliff top FA Lucky Mary and Rusty. Way steep and way fun this route At the west end of the wall you find a set of chains (Marys project)the second climb to the right is Lava Sundae 5.10-A ,the first climb put up on this wall, start with a bolt on a large black face continue up past two closely spaced bolts than to a black lieback corner ,up to a bolt on a small roof, up to ring anchors and a comfortable belay. This area has seen a lot of routes lately and for more beta you will have buy the new Tieton River Canyon guide coming out soon .

I have to wear a helmet all day at work but very seldom wear one when climbing.A helmet can be false security and will not save you from bad decisions , standing in the rock fall zone at the crag(the trail under sushine wall ) Falling without pro, climbing a route that is known for loose rock under another party and the most offen made mistake (like RUMR said)is having that rope behind your leg, when ever I even feel the slightest touch of the rope behind my leg I get tweeked and my only though is to fix it before I make another move. We all make mistakes, STACK THE ODDS

oh yeah! some feedback you actually drive down the Vantage road on top of the mesa above Frenchman's Coulee past the climbing than into the coulee. So what name do you like best, I hear both being used?

I was hang'n and drink'n at the local pub with a few of the locals and was doing quite well coming from a logging/ construction worker back ground. When I mentioned Frenchman's Coulee one of them said are you a KCB, when I ask what a KCB was, his reply was that only a King Co Bitch refers to the old Vantage road as Frenchman's Coulee So after going over the maps, I realized that most of the climbing is in Echo basin or the mesa top and very little is in Frenchman's coulee. So was Matt Stanly's guide Vantage Rock copyright 1995 a better or more proper name for the area ? Most climbers think it's a cooler name! I find both names being used,i'm sure there is some back ground history. So Frenchman's Coulee or Vantage?