Jedi

I saw the pair on Ebay. The are a small and I need a large. Thanks for the heads up. Jedi

I have lost my gaitors I need another pair in large. Any of you guys have a buddy selling a used pair (in good shape) or know of a shop having a sale? Jedi

I like the AAJ that I get every year. 400 pages of routes done in counties all over the world. Sometimes, great stories on some of the routes put up. Not full of advertisements like the climbing mag's. I wish I had every journal. Accidents in North America. Another wealth of knowledge. Learn from others mistakes. The insurance, hey I hope I never need it and forget I have it. I don't really care about that. If my membership helps give the AAC a voice in anything that will benefit the climbing community, even just something small, right on. I did go to a meeting a couple years ago and hear many great climbers tell their tales of adventure, sorrow and triumph. It was worth every penny. Just sitting around watch cool slide shows talking with the likes of Tom Frost, Joe Terravecchia, Conrad Anker, etc... Living on the east coast, I am going to bump into this guys often. This board is great and I enjoy reading what you guys write. Good source of info but the AAC is another resource for climbing inside and outside of the Northwest. Jedi

Jared, So you just went back to using the larger classic style of goggles?? Trask, what is the "Birchmark". Do you have a pair? Jedi

Have any of you guys ever tried these and if so, what did you think of them. I have a big pair of Oakley goggles but they usually stay in my pack. They are there for "just in case" the shit hits the fan while booting up a peak. I am looking for a smaller and lighter pair of quality goggles that perform just about as well as regular goggles. The Viperz look like the ticket, any input or suggestions?? Jedi

Matt, So ice is in along the Banff Jasper highway? Any recommended routes off the top of your head?? Matt, you should post the other good shot from that same trip. The North Face is stunning is both shots. I hope we have that kind of weather. I heard there was 1 summit in June and 2 in July. They had a meter of snow last week (in one dump), I think. TG, We hope to be standing at Berg Lake the afternoon of Sept 10th. We have to fly out the 16th, so unfortunately, it looks like we will miss meeting you. Dag, we could give you the heads up on conditions if we did see you. Let me know if you go any earlier. Jedi

Thanks fella's. Good info indeed. I have climbed the North Face of Athabasca and descended the AA Col but it was in March so there was mosty snow in the col. There was a little rock above the col but it was all frozen and low angle. I am unsure if I have ever climbed anything like the rock section on Robson. But you guys have convinced me that it will be loose and I should go ready to rope up and place gear. Thanks for info on KB's as the most useful pins. I'll be sure to have some on hand with a few other pieces. The only recent climbing with a pack & crampons I have done was in the Ruth Gorge this past May. The rock was mostly frozen in place and pretty good in quality. I did climb Mt Temple in the Sierra's. I was surprised how much loose rock was on those "highly recommended" routes but that was with climbing shoes. Sounds like I should expect the unexpected and less reliable rock. Thanks guys! Jedi

Climbmachine; I am not concerned about the difficulty of this section as far as being "too difficult". In wanting to climb the mountain in the best and fastest (fast being a relative term) style possible, I was interested in other peoples 1st hand experiences. It is the only place rock gear might be used. I hope so climb the upper 2600' as light as possible as not to work my wimpy calves any more than needed. I was hoping someone was going to say that it is mostly a steep scramble and maybe a couple stoppers would suffice. Man, how was the Emperor Face? A stunning face in the pictures I have seen. Yeah, I am not use to 3rd or 5th class approaches here on the East Coast so I am still not sure what they are. I guess it is different difficulties of scrambling which I do not see warranting a rope or gear (must easier than YDS 5.0 or it would be rated so). Is that about right Matt? If there is 5.6, I am guessing it is a 5.6 move or two move while scrambling. I kinda pictured hiking up the rock behind the Emmons glaicer ranger hut to the Inter Glaier (which was easy). I guess I'll try to call a ranger to get a little info. I read in Climbing issue 172 where the author (in 1979) and hoofed Mist Glacier but with the constant changing conditions of glaciers, I did not know if this was possible and a good option. I never thought about trying that Haireball but with us making a short trip up, We are hoping too limit the number of days on route. Thanks for you input though. Did you guys enjoy the route?? Jedi [ 08-12-2002, 05:07 AM: Message edited by: Jedi ]

Is there anyone here that has attempted The North Face of Robson? I am curious about the rock section above Berg Lake, left of Mist Glacier. I have only read brief descriptions like: "Crumbly buttress of typical Canadian Rockies limestone & shale that require care". In another article about the climb: "5.4 to 5.6 climbing." And "expect 3rd to 5th class". What is 3rd to 5th class like? Thanks for any insight or info on this route. Jedi

Soloing on glaciers definitely ups the stakes. This year in Alaska, I fell in chest deep with feet dangling. I was looking at a small hole we made when we found a hidden crevasse on the way up Mt Dickie. The leader (190 lbs) had already jumped the hole. I was about to step/jump over the hole when I made a new hole myself. The crevasse was much bigger than we thought. He already had the rope tight and just dragged my little 145lb ass out (downhill). Just never know. On another trip, we had a 4 man rope team. I was the 3rd and lightest. After the 200lb guy crossed, I went next and took the whole bridge with me. Would not have survived without a rope. Best of luck to you and let us know how it works out. Jedi

Yeah, let's do it. Jedi

When the bugs get bad, I find that screaming, running in circles, waving arms frantically helps keep the bug bites down. Crying and begging once you tire doesn't work too well. Sobbing makes the bugs laugh before they bite. Bribeing the bugs works as they can't hold the money and fly. Quarters work best for those big ass skeeters in the PNW. If things get bad, some gas and a match keeps them at bay until you come to a smolder. Then the proceed to nibble again. Bastsard! Jedi

2 easy routes at Seneca WV in the pouring rain. Never climbed in full on rain and I have to say I did not mind. Soaking wet, water running down arm, rain in eyes every time I looked up, wrinkled fingers, etc... Friction was better than I thought it would be. I hope the sun is out next time. I would like to get on something harder than 5.4 Jedi

My Mom climbed Rainier and gave birth to me on the summit. I started with the North Face Everest at age 2, K2 2 months later, and the rest of the 8000 meter peaks by the time I was 5. I soon found ice climbing fun and put up a M10, WI8 as my 1st lead. It was called Jedi Leads. Then I saw a picture of someone climbing in a place called Baffin. Hell, at age 10, I had nothing better to do so I soloed a bunch of routes there. I called them Jedi Leads Again, And Again. I soon tired and did some top roping on a 5.4 called Mud Gulley. The name fit the route. Really though, I climbed a boulder in central Viginia, in jeans, wearing leather dress shoes, and a button down shirt. Just a rock on the bank of a river. Taught myself top roping from a European climbing book from the library. Girlfriend belayed. Went to Seneca with a guy who had some gear. I asked "what is this?" He said "a nut and it goes in a crack". I asked "what is this?" He said it is a cam, it goes in a crack too". I through on my 20lb pack full of all kinds of crap I did not need. Pulled on my Five Ten Summits and lead Banana 5.6. The guy cleaned it and told me I would have died if I had fallen. But I got better. Rainier was my 1st mountain and did not see a cloud the 5 days I was there. Top roped ice the 1st weekend trip to New England. My second trip yeilded many nice routes. Most on my 1st routes on rock & ice, I was very cautious while learning because I was teaching myself (no one to ask if I was doing it right). These routes were short, easy and not memoriable. The 2nd outting usually was more exciting. The sharp end is where my memories are. Jedi

I have been pretty luckly with my knees. A couple months ago, I rotated my body to the left while my left foot stayed planted. I had a sharp pain on the medial side (the side that touches the right knee) of my left knee. The pain is still that same. If I push on a certain spot, it is still a somewhat sharp pain. The injury appears to be on the outside of the joint. Any of you guys had the same symptoms?? Jedi

Right on! Nice pic's. Thanks for sharing Jedi

I hear ya TG. Living where I live makes the pickings slim. Virginia Beach, Virginia does not produce many climbers and those typically are not interested in mountains with snow. I have had a couple fun partners but they all lacked the motivation I have. They have all moved west and taken up other interests. You definitely have to have the same general goals and ideals. I have done a little soloing but it is definitely limiting and more risky. I enjoy the conversations after a day of climbing also. Nothing like talking about the goals reached that day, the adventures along the way and the more grand routes to be attempted. Just yesterday, I was looking through guide books & magazines. Routes in the Canadain Rockies (Robson), the North East (ice routes for this coming season), AK (Huntington, Deborah and Denali among others) and wondering who in the heck I am going to attempt all these mountains with in the next couple years. All these dream routes and not a clue if I will able to find a partner. A partner with the same drive, ability and goals that is reliable and compatable. Yeah, a little frustrating to say the least. I just had a friend and partner decide to take up sailing. Geeze Jedi

Statistical, when is the best month to give Robson a shot. The North Face route has always looked beautiful to me but I understand the weather can be a little......unseattled at times Jedi

Now SK, you know that Twight is married and his wife is no pushover

Man, I wish I had started climbing at 18!!! I was not lucky enough to start that early. No clue until I was 25 and at 34 I am still as jazzed about it. The Cassin............aahhhhhh.......the Cassin. I hope to find a partner willing to attempt in in a couple years. Maybe by then I will be worthy enough. The West Butt, I was an old fart at 28 when i climbed it. Great route to learn about Alaska. It might be a trade route but it still whips over 50% of the people who try it every year. Jedi

Alright, I think Jobe has gotten the point and was man enough to admit that he overeacted. I'm sure he is sorry he brought, what he thought was an issue, up. He has been punished. Careful not to beat people up too bad for bringing issues to everyones attention. Anyway, Jobe did you have fun on Denali? What route? Headed back in the future to try anything else? Jedi

Annie retired. Lisa Roderick (sp?), Paul's (TAT) sister is Annie's replacement. Lisa used to work for Feathered Friend's in Seattle years back and is Westman's girl. Jens, hah, who buries it? I thought you were suppose to take it with you up and down the mountain My two partners brought 1/5 of Tequila (sp?), 1/5 of 15 year old scotch and 1/5 of Rum. Not being a liqior drinker, I opted for the 1/2 case of beer for those tent bound days. The beer was gone after the 1st week (I had help) so we got Paul to fly in 18 beers and 3 bags of chips. Those damn Navy SEALS can drink! Jedi [ 06-28-2002, 08:59 PM: Message edited by: Jedi ]

TAT and Geeting will also put you in where no other services dare to land. I do appreciate it. Jedi

Jobe, I know what you are saying but that is the way it works. I have flown in & out with Hudson. Weather made it hard getting in and out. I just used TAT. Paul did not want to fly into the West Fork of the Ruth do to the recent snow fall. We opted to wait til the next morning for firmer conditions. He said he did not want to fly in but would if we really wanted too but really did not want to. He told the folks at the flight service he was probably going to "stick a plane on the West Fork". He hesitantly took up, did a light test landing to pack the run way and test the snow and then set the plane smooth as silk. 14 days later, we were at the Mountain House landing strip. we had told them on Thursday that we wanted out Saturday morning if possible. We hoped for 1st thing in the moring before they started flying tourist in. We watched TAT bring in tourist all day. I asked the pilot when we were schedualed to fly out. I then found out they had just flipped on of their newest planes on the West Fork of the Kahiltna. They were flying 3 climbers out at 11pm when it happened. $200,000 plane nearly totaled. Anyway, they were short a plane. Another flight service offered to help get us our. I flew out with another service willing to help TAT out. TAT got my partners out moments later. Later that day, Geeting let Paul borrow his Beaver to help get some of his clients off the mountain. It is hard to be patient when you are looking forward to a West Rib Summit Burger and a couple cowboy sodas and you ready to get off. Seeing the "tourist" flying in frustrated us also but it just part of the game. Jedi

Rich, you are a fool, how could you try to gain experience with a guide service. RMI, o gee wiz! You deserve a horsecock or something.... I am just joshing with you in trying to keep in the spirit on many contribitors on the board and so you would not be disappointed that you were not harrassed. ANYWAY, right on! Sounds like you had a good experience. My 1st mountain was Rainier in 1995 with RMI. 5 day seminar. Being that the closest mountain with a glacier on it is over 2000 miles away, I figured a guide service was the fastest & safest way to gain knowledge. You get to cover great deal. What might have taken you several trips into what can be a dangerous environment, you get to do in one trip. I was one of 15 clients and 7 guides. 4 guides had been to Everest, 3 had summited. I was the only client that was a rock climber, the rest were hikers. Most of our party summited in stellar weather. I felt I learned a great deal. There is nothing wrong with learning the proper way to do things in the mountains from those with a great deal of experience. Then tweek your style after that. At least you have an idea what is right and wrong. I also wished we had spent more time on crevasse rescue. Luckly since then, I have able to get myself out of the crevasses I have gone into. Build on the information RMI has given you by reading and getting out there. "The body can achieve what the mind can conceive." Climb on. Jedi