Jens

What's the cheapest goose down jacket anyone has seen that is under 2 pounds?

I'm currently running "B" rated picks on my quarks and am dry tooling the shit out of em' (torques, steinpulls, and the like. Do I need to switch em' out for when the waterfall season starts (before I'm sketchin' out on some pillar or something?).. Anotherwards, how tough are Charlet "B" rated picks? I've been on BD for the last 10 seasons and have switched brands so I have no clue. Please help.

You know you are truly a sport climber when you can do more pull-ups than push-ups.

Does any shop in the area still put fresh glue on ski skins? I've never had good luck doing it myself and make a mess. I'll pay a shop to do it. Marmot and REI said that they both have discontinued the service (they used to glue em').

What's the earliest waterfall ice you've ever climbed in OR, WA, or BC that wasn't in the mountains? (You don't have to remember the year). I remember TR'ing ice in October at the Mount Baker ski area.

For Sale Black Diamond Black Prophet bent shaft (the black ones) ice tools. They are in good shape. They have the steep ice picks on them. They are great for ice and mixed routes from beginner to world class they are also great for summer alpine routes in the cascades. 1 is a hammer & 1 is an adze. They come with an extra hammer head if you want to run 2 hammers. They also come with a wrench $85 each or $160 for both. ____ FS Black Diamond Stinger (steep ice replacement picks)- they work on all BD tools. 13 used ones. Some are nearly new others can be like new with a bit of filing. $7 each 3 brand spanking new ones $12 each would prefer to sell the picks in bunches or all together but am flexible ___ call Jens @ work @ 425-204-2870 if interested

It would be nice if you could bring a big chain saw. You'll need a long bar though

You are right about the approach. ------ Midnight has never seen lots of traffic (Some weekends during prime season it doesn't see a single party).

Thanks for doing this service to what I believe is WA finest crag. The yellow bird bolts should be replaced. Please Replace the Dagobah system bolts, it's been a long time since I've been on it, but remember it to be one of the coolest sport routes anywhere. Did somebody put some new hardware on top of Spellbound? It is surprinsing Midnight doesn't get much traffic. It has much better trad climbing than index in my humble opinion.

Neat to see CWU climbers. As an alum, CWU has produced a lot of climbers over the years.

As was said, the health club has a tower. Also as has been discusse before their is stuff off the SR900 renton-issaquah highway but no granite though.

Good points. Lots of strong climbers never check this site or report repeats. __ As for supercrack, I Tr'd the thing with hangs when I was aout 20 pounds lighter. As for lots of people around here being able to climb it, If you don't have HUGE hands, you have to climb the final arching section by leading with your feet.

Climb: TR- Johannesburg Mt. -CK route F.A. Grade V, 5.10b, AI 3+ Date of Climb: 8/27/2005 Trip Report: I figured I'd take my first stab at a trip report with this format: Several summers ago Loren Campbell and I attempted a direct line on the North Face of Johannesburg but had to retreat due to steep blank sections of rock. After some planning, we went back for round two with the same line. Johannesburg has always been a favorite mountain of mine to climb because on each trip J-burg seems to pull out something new from up its sleeve. In addition, the approach is perfect for someone as lazy as myself. The trend in the last couple of years has been to traverse lots of peaks or run routes together to get one big "climb". For those looking for a good adventure, Johannesburg delivers plus I was told that the North aspect has the greatest vertical rise in one horizontal mile anywhere in the U.S. outside of Alaska? --- Last Saturday I picked Loren up at 1:00am in Issaquah, and after packing gear we left the cascade pass parking lot at approx. 4:30a.m. We traversed below the fan and the beautiful steep red wall that I always thought would make a great sport wall and passed several more sections of rock until we got to our start. We climbed through various pitches up to 5.8 until we were cliffed out by an World Wall 1-"esque" overhanging wall that ran all the way right to a waterfall. (The 1985 Kloke route takes slabby ramps to the right of the falls and goes up and onto the other side of a huge prow). After tryiing three different options we were ready to throw in the towell. I felt stupid because I'd promised Loren we'd make it through this section even if meant aiding through with pins, hooks, mashies, or whatever other monkey business was required- At the lot, I just packed a free rack. I decided to give on last overhanging chimney that was just left of a 15 foot horitzontal ceiling a try. I started up a face and then cut into the mossy chimney. Luckily it was late August and the moss was dry. Any earlier in the summer it would have been wet and unclimbable. I pulled through and let out a whoop of joy. The packs hauled easily out in space for the pitch. The belay would allow a base jumper a clean jump all the way to the talus. It wasn't like penguins in bondage at squamish or anything but the pitch was solid "index" 5.10. We scrambled up the slabs with the huge snout of the glacier looming above us. We were going to climb the left of the two beautiful hanging glaciers. The 1985 route was on the other side of a huge butress and pulls on to the right of the two hanging glaciers. We scrambled up 1,000 feet of low to mid fifth class rock.until we came to a prow of rock to the right of the start of the left hanging glacier. Just then, a huge section the size of 3 houses of the glacier calved off and scoured excatly over the rock we'd just climbed. Then as we were uncoling the rope, another mini willis wall size section cut loose. We were scared shitless. Had we stopped for 5 extra minutes lower on the route we'd have been toast. The snout of the glacier was overhung and onion peeling away. We agreed we'd have to get up a little ways on the rock and then climb onto the glacier. The snout of the thing looks small from the road, but when you are by it it makes the ice cliff glacier on Stuart look like snqoqualmie's bunny hill. We climbed about 200 feet of 5.7 rock untill we were able to downclimb onto the glacier. As soon as I saw the upper glacier, I was afraid that we were stuck and would have to traverse onto the slabby wooded ridge route that is in the Nelson Volume 2 guide. We figuered we'd give the glacier a go. Loren masterfull led off and we were using two tools right from the get go. We spent hours climbing in and out of crevasses trying to pick a line through. It was the most monkey business I'd ever done on a glacier in my whole life. Near the top, our hearts sank as we found oursleves dead ended. One crevasse that overhung a whole pitch blocked our path. We found a moat wall to the right that we were able to climb. Loren masterfully led a beautiful vertical AI3+ pitch to pull us through. We were thankfull for spending the last five winters doing a lot of waterfalls. We reached the top and traversed onto ramp where an ice wall brought us to the end of the snow arete of the before mentioned select climbs route. We trudged on to the summit. The glacier was like climbing up the ice cliff glacier on Mt. Stuart in mid summer two or three times. I was beat. We topped out and decided to descend beacuse the weather forcast for Sunday was poor. We descended and reached the CJ col at 2:30am and bivied. We'd been climbing for 22 hours except for the 1 hour of hiking across the talus. Next morning we hiked out Doug's Direct. The route was by far more committing than any of the numerous grade V's I've done in the Cascades. Pictures to come. Go do it! I'll give you a topo. Gear Notes: full rock rack, rock shoes, 2 ice tools each, ice screws packs were hand hauled on vertical and overhanging pitches. Approach Notes: easy 1 hour approach

actually shot at. -richochets off the dihedral if I remember the story right. What about the mythical lost hot springs that are a one hour hike from the top of the upper wall? A 70's hardman described them to me when I was a kid.

At the rap from the base of the gendarme, how hard would it be to downclimb that section if travelling alone-- (5.7ish?) Any running water or ice in the gully right now? I remember climbing through it in mid August years ago and running into pure verglass.

I talked a dude who said he was once shot at while aiding the golden arch. He said the shooter was from above. ____________________________________________ Also, shiny hangers with bullet impacts look weird.

I find clipping twins into one biner on a pumpy rock route tricky. I even don't like clipping em' on sport-ice mixed routes near my limit.

I know it has been discussed on this board before, but why as of late are more folks grabbing summit reigisters and either pitching them off a cliff or just stealing them? I know some of us don't like to sign them but they are important for historical reasons. In the last 2 years a lot of them are disappearing.

is the runout with a safe but big air if you fall (OK) 0r land on a ledge if you bail? this one is on my list for this sept. hopefully

Ben Manfredi skiied from the top.

The swimming hole under the bridge is cool (like you are heading to gritscone). Traverse complete -north underside of bridge V0+ Traverse scomplete south underside of bridge V0- Bridge jump into water is cool! Rope swings are cool. ____ Tressel climb at 38 is cool

There is a great beach at murrin park with a lake for swimming. Lots of soccer moms reading while their kids swim. The bouldering in the woods below the chief might be OK as well as some of the stuff at the little smoke bluffs. .

If somone ferret's out some limestone and opens some routes that would be cool. Marcus is a looong drive.

I plan to climb the buttress -leaving tomorrow.

I'll be out at the Goldbar bouldering tomorrow if anybody wants to work some problems with a fat mountain climber type. I should be out there around 12:30ish. It's gonna be nice and you know all those index cracks are gonna be seepin' water like they always do! Before the long straightaway turn left onto Reiter Road. Follow Reiter go on gravel go under the powerlines and make another left on a gravel side road. The logging road switches back up the hill. The boulders are unmissable in the clear-cut. Some of them are big enough for roped climbs. See you there.