Bronco
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Posts posted by Bronco
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30 could be a little high but we were at the approach ledge at 9:30 and there were already multiple groups on the face that probably summited by 11:00. I assume a bunch of folks camped out at the lake Friday night and were climbing shortly after dawn. We counted approximately a dozen different parties, some with 3 climbers. Certainly not the place to be if you're looking for solace.
I do agree with Jason, there are a lot more folks out climbing these days.
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Climbed this yesterday, what a fun route! There were probably 30 climbers sharing the stoke on Ragged Edge and True Grit with a gaggle of international tourists at the top applauding as we summited.
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19 hours ago, JasonG said:
I don't get skipping the top pocket, nor those ridiculous fabrics that don't last.
If you're a desk jockey with too much time to "research" the latest and greatest, they can be appealing.
I have a the 40l HMG Icepack I found on Craigslist a few months ago and paid about 50% of the new price. I generally leave the brain off my other packs anyway in favor of stuff sacks inside the pack and a hip pocket for readily accessed small items. The HMG pack does carry better than my other packs in the 40-60l size but, as the OP suspects, it's pretty sweaty and warm on your back. It is pretty much waterproof, which has been nice for SAR missions in the rain.
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I agree with Jason, you won't be front pointing anything in approach shoes so the nanotech's are probably a waste of $ for that purpose.
These work pretty well with stiffer approach shoes and fold up nicely for the 99% of the time you're carrying them in your pack for route's you've mentioned:
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Did you see this? http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8029895
Was up at Cascade Pass on Fathers Day and snow was still covering the ground.
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Pretty neat that you guys ran into Alex Honnold!
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Looks to be confirmed! Awesome! : https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/liberty-ridge-sar-6-6-2019.htm
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3 days exposed at that location is pretty tough. Hope they hang in there.
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12 hours ago, glassgowkiss said:
I think the only way to do it is being acclimatized and fit, and do it in one push, minimizing risks.
While I agree this is a practical approach in many alpine climbs, I also think taking advantage of the early AM temperatures on the ascent from the Carbon Glacier, take a long rest break at Thumb Rock and get moving again once it's cooled down overnight for the ascent to the summit is the generally accepted "best practice". This also allows for some recovery and acclimation to take place to help move quickly on the upper part of the route. I know anyone who was much above Thumb Rock on the afternoon we were there would've been swept off by a giant serac calving event in the heat of the day. Any way you do it, you have to accept that you're rolling the dice on this route.
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Pretty tenuous spot to camp with lots of objective risk. Rock fall, serac collapse, avalanche, falling off the west side of the ridge to name a few.
That is one route you don't hear many people climbing more than once for good reason.
RIP to the fallen climber.
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I think it's SOP for Buckner's North Face to climb unroped after exiting the Boston Glacier. It's too steep to arrest a rope mate's fall and aren't any (many?) crevasses once across the bergschrund. Sounds like Alisse just discovered a random thin spot where a moat was lurking.
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Me and a buddy did Mt. Baring main peak and then south peak in the fall of 2002 but I don't remember anything more than scrambling around on the SW aspect. Looks better with some snow on it.
I was recently thinking of the Skykomish Valley version of the "North Bend Triple" and think a fit scrambler could do Gunn-Merchant-Baring in a day. You could be set up to re-supply at a vehicle between peaks. Approximately 22 miles and 12,000' vert, probably doable in a day but I'd take a headlamp for sure. Someone has probably done it.
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They all show up nicely for me!
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I'm not 100% sure this is the one DPS refers to but there's a good possibility it is:
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Still above .500!
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I believe the point is still valid (upgrading your old beacon) but if you want to remove the post or links, feel free.
I try to be consistent with providing a link to the source if I'm copy and pasting something. Is this a breach of internet protocol? I seriously don't know.
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from here: https://www.adventure-journal.com/2019/04/might-it-be-time-to-replace-your-old-avy-beacon/
How long have you had your cell phone? Probably less three years, statistically speaking. Tech changes so you change your phone. Simple enough. But if you’re a backcountry skier or snowshoer, or otherwise venture into avalanche zones—what about your avalanche beacon? How often do you replace that? Technology changes quickly in those units too. Dual-antennae beacons were widely used in for years, but now three-antennae are the standard. Take it from the Canadian Avalanche Association: “Dual antenna digital transceivers aren’t obsolete, but they’re dated. The current crop of three antenna digital transceivers supersedes them and provides clear advantages over previous generations…
Through May 1, if you want to trade up to the most modern avy beacons on the market, at least those made by Ortovox, any Ortovox dealer will accept an old beacon, no matter who made it, for $75 credit toward their new Ortovox 3+ beacon. Unsure if your beacon is starting to be outdated? The Canadian Avalanche Association has a checklist of reasons to update here.
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Great story!
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Shirtless Tech bro sighting
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I have a wide, high volume foot and the Salewa boots are my new favorite, better fit for me than the Scarpa Charmoz. I have put a bunch of miles on the Rapace which hikes great and climbs ok since it's a 3/4 shank. I also have the Vultur boot that I picked up cheap off of Ebay last fall and really like them as well but they are overkill for anything but cold weather. I think the Crows would be great for PNW 3 season climbing and I might replace the Rapace boots with them when they wear out.
And of course, DPS's advice and list are spot on. Except the Hexes.
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When do these guys reveal themselves to be the crappy team they're supposed to be?
Right after the all star break like last year?
I just looked and discovered the only other time the M's have started out 6-1, was the legendary 1995 season where they saved baseball in Seattle, winning their first AL West title and making a run to the ALCS. This could be the year they go to the World Series!
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That's great you found something that fits so well, six miles with no problems is pretty successful out of the box.
You may already be aware of this but, it's I believe it's really important to take your boots to the shop and try different crampons on them to make sure they fit the welt and width of your particular boot prior to purchasing. Anyone who has much alpine climbing experience can attest to the importance of this being a secure fit. I've been that guy who buy's the new sexy crampons on-line only to find out they don't really fit my boots when they start rattling around on a climb where a loss of traction is going to have some consequences. You should REALLY like the way the crampon hugs your boot. Anyway, I hope that helps!
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Whoops, that was DPS' list, for some reason I though it was yours. Carry on -
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[TR] Mt Logan - Fremont Glacier 08/04/2019
in North Cascades
Posted
Nice work on this tough peak. Many of us appreciate you not posting summit nudes.