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Posts posted by Bronco
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You guys made the right call to stay put until light. The slabs between you and camp have been the site of several accidents, some fatal. Good job on the climb!
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Here's a link to current USFS closures. No change at Washington Pass but the Pasayten has real limited access to anything up the Chewuch River Drainage.
https://www.arcgis.com/apps/webappviewer/index.html?id=8e69381e35144962a835ee59aafba153
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On 7/16/2021 at 3:16 PM, Kuato said:
Looking up the lake to the Columbia Glacier, there is a giant horseshoe of cliffs surrounding the glacier. The only easy way to the glacier is walking up the side of the lake to the base of the glacier.
From the summit of Columbia this weekend, we could see there's a steep slope you can scramble down from Monte Cristo Pass to the Columbia Glacier. The moats are pretty significant right now including the snow finger in the gully you'd normally use to get from the glacier onto the west face of Kyes. It was a little surprising considering the high snow pack we had this spring but I guess that heat wave did more damage than I figured. Glad you found a way down Monte Cristo!
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If you're planning to do any climbing in the Washington Pass area, it'd be wise to check up on access. HWY 20 is closed just East of Washington Pass and probably will be until we get some significant precipitation. This likely means September or October before you can get through. Areas that are definitely closed include Cutthroat, Silver Star, Wine Spires, Spontaneity Arete and the Gardeners. Also affected is area North of the Twisp River drainage. Though the Liberty Bell are is technically just outside of the closure, I'm not sure it's a great idea to head there right now with the close proximity to the fire operations and potentially placing additional stress on resources and first responders. Same goes for Goat Wall and crags up Lost River Rd as this area is not technically closed but is subject to a Level 1 evacuation order.
This is a map of the current USFS closure area:
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[TR] Goode - NE Buttress 07/02/2021
Fake news!
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You should reach out to Burdo. If he doesn't respond, the developers are likely not done and don't want folks in there while they're finishing up. I don't know if Burdo is the sole poster behind it but I understand he's involved with the FB account "Mazama Rocks". You might start there.
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Didn't Beckey commonly use a stick for eating and after dinner hygiene?
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I rely on gel blocks and shots and just wash them down with water between actual breaks where I can pop them out to eat/brush/re-insert. I hate these things and look forward to being done with them!
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A friend and I had planned to tackle the Gunn-Merchant traverse a few summers ago. We did Gunn and decided it was too hot, too smokey and didn't trust Smoot.
Rad - Having done Baring and Gunn, Baring is much more straightforward route and legendary in Cascade lore. Nobody knows where Gunn is or can pick it out on the skyline.
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Recently skinning up Silver Star Glacier, I chatted with a descending couple and asked if they reached the summit. The guy responds, "yes, well...I touched it with my chin". I thought that sounded strange until I scrambled up to the summit and could see why someone wouldn't necessarily feel compelled to stand or even sit on the summit due to the terrific exposure. As I sat there straddling the Au Cheval summit, I thought about how many other middle aged sweaty body parts had sat on this same little piece of rock. My conclusion is that touching a chin on a summit would count as summiting but don't blame me if you develop a rash.
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I hate to admit it but an hour of 16" box steps are pretty effective with an appropriately weighted pack. Pretty boring.
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13 hours ago, olyclimber said:
@Bronco I hear they make these pumps. anyway, the nice girls say that its how you use it, not the size.
Yeah, likely you'll need to convert from HEIC to something else. Sorry.
Let me try to upload a big picture to see the big picture.
I've tried JPEG, JPG, HEIC and nothing is working for me or my iPhone pics. I'm over it though so carry on.
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Steve makes snowshoeing look so fun!
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12 hours ago, JasonG said:
Well, I knew he wore Spanx for a reason.
THEY'RE "COMPRESSION SHORTS" GOSH DARN IT!
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Is there a maximum file size for photos? I keep getting an "upload failure" message.
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10 hours ago, DanO said:
Only the very stupid will take the vaccines and think the clowns on CC are cute.
I've met a few and they are very attractive!
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Why should we care, I thought most of us would be dead in 2 years from taking the vaccine...
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18 hours ago, keenwesh said:
Just a question for the older crowd on here, have there always been suckers for dumb conspiracy theories? Was it this way back in the Reagan days? Is it a byproduct of tucker Carlson acolytes? Why is America full of so many easily duped dopes?
There have been gullible people since the beginning of time. They just have access to more visibility now that they can type messages or post videos on social media from the safety of mom's basement.
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Cellular reception has greatly improved since my second shot.
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I'm not watching the 68 minute video about the vaccine since I've already had both doses. Here's a better video:
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I don't have one of those packs but just wanted to point out that you'll get no sympathy from me for "suffering from skinny hips"!
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http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215692
Pretty good article on how many people are actually reaching the true summit of 8,000 meter peaks. I think it's pretty common in the Cascades as well. I personally have reached the crater on Rainier and Helens but not bothered to slog to the actual high point of the rim. Does it count?
I've read some TR's for Challenger in particular where the party claims to have bagged the peak but admit they didn't climb the summit block, usually due to weather. Should that count since they didn't climb the technical part of that peak? I guess I can't criticize anyone since I haven't literally summited Rainier or Helens.
How about Luna? I haven't attempted Luna yet but understand most folks do not make the traverse to the actual summit (at least according to Juan Sharp). What other peaks are accepted as a successful climb without actually touching the summit?
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10 hours ago, JayB said:
Descending from Colchuck Lake on a refrozen crust whilst hauling an overnight pack with climbing gear falls into that category. First time I ever used skins on the descent.
But not the last!
"The Alpinist " Mark-Andre' Leclerc
in Climber's Board
Posted
No kidding, bring the tissues in case it's "dusty" in the theatre...