Bronco
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Posts posted by Bronco
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2 hours ago, JasonG said:
The nut tool, c'mon @Bronco. I actually had to do this on Sir Donald last month when I forgot to pack a spoon. Not as bad as you'd think!
Now that's extreme alpinism!
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Congrats and thanks for the detailed TR! The gear list is a wonderful pot-pori of hardcore minimalism, "one long spoon to share", what if you lost it!?
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Wide foot and I like leather shoes without GTX or any membrane as they don't dry or breathe well enough for me. Also, I don't go out when it's wet very much. Here's my last few approach shoes:
Past - Scarpa Crux, light weight, fit well, not great for hiking in, thin soles and not much traction. Cheap $
Past - Scarpa Zen Pro, hike real well, great traction, gusseted tongue but fit a little narrow and heavy. Expensive $$$
Current - La Sportiva TX4, fit pretty well, great lacing, seems like a good compromise between the other two. Moderate price and available in high top.
I also have some Salewa Rapace boots that are stiffer and heavier than any of these approach shoes but are great as a Cascade Mountain all around boot for 3 seasons. Not quite a full on mountaineering boot but they hike very well with heavier loads, crampon and climb ok. Pretty ideal for a multi-day trip into the Pickets where a lighter boot might not be sufficient.
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Great TR and good on you for getting out there despite the smoke. That's a lot of walking for 48 hours!
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I googled "definition of 4th class climbing" and this article came up. https://www.summitpost.org/class-four-is-a-myth-problems-in-yds/891794
33 minutes ago, G-spotter said:4th overlaps from about the middle of 3rd all the way to around 5.8.
This is pretty good approach Dru. No easy answers I guess, just try to mitigate risk where you can.
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and this one: https://www.seattletimes.com/seattle-news/cashmere-climber-dies-from-injuries-suffered-in-accidental-fall-on-forbidden-peak/
and this one: https://q13fox.com/2018/06/25/seattle-climber-dies-after-falling-down-mount-stuart/
and this one: https://www.kiro7.com/news/local/seattle-man-dies-in-climbing-accident-at-mount-rainier-national-park/814485634
Did we miss any from this year? I think all 4 of these deaths occurred on class 3-4 routes.
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Too many deaths on easy terrain lately. I don't know if this is a typical year but hearing about these types of accidents is bugging me more.
I think that I've become too complacent in "easy" 3rd and 4th class terrain where a fall will result in serious consequences. Somewhat of an ego issue, I suspect. Just being more aware of the risk is probably a good start.
I don't see any old threads on this particular subject but would be interested to see what everyone else has to say about tips on moving quickly and safely. Obviously if you have a partner you can rope up on a kiwi coil and simul but how about solo? What's the best practices there?
I found this article interesting and a much more serious approach than what I've become accustomed to. https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/article/how-to-move-faster-and-more-safely-through-3rd-and-4th-class-terrain
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Second Mt. Pugh (Pew). Good trail to the summit block then some scrambly moves to get up the summit. No crampons needed as of 3 weeks ago. I encountered some snow covering the trail above Stujack that was bypassed thought he brush on the climbers right.
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Very cool, thanks for the report.
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The video of this is pretty spectacular especially the lift off of the Chinook.
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13 hours ago, matt_warfield said:
There is a recent article about super enduroathlete Kilian Jornet in Outside mag. The article mentions doubts about his Everest trip expressed by the one and only DH, of interest to those who recall the epic discussions about Rainier, etc. on this site years ago. It never hurts to have another turd in the punchbowl.
That is crazy!
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I'd be willing to bet some busy body noticed the syringe and reported it to the park rangers. They'd have a lot of fun in Everett these days if the presence of a syringe is that big of deal.
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I was just looking at your photos again, that really looks like a fun scramble line, kind of like the West Ridge of the N. Twin but chossier and a bit more of an approach.
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Looks like a fun romp. Good training to haul a rack and rope and the odor from old rock shoes keeps the bugs at bay. Or maybe attracts them.
We drove by Good Food on Fathers day and laughed about our last trip there where my wedding ring fell off into one of the "bathroom" sinks and because there was no stopper, went right down the drain. I retrieved a pair of channel locks from the truck and proceeded to remove the P-trap to find my ring. While reinstalling the P-Trap, I was surprised by someone opening the door and I blurted out "this one is closed for repairs!" as they scurried out. I washed up (and checked for leaks), put the channel locks away and went in to find our table. We laughed when someone at the table next to us was overheard complaining about the crabby a**hole plumber in the bathroom.
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I have a pair and they'll be fine on the DC route. Snow balling could be an issue. One other tip is that the cord on the bottom stretched out the first time I used mine and had to be adjusted. Be sure they're adjusted tightly and you shouldn't have an issue.
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Funny, I looked at a photo of Dorado Needle for quite a while before posting this. It was the photo for June 2018 on the calendar my accountant gave me this year. The caption just says, "North Cascades - Washington".
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Looks super familiar but it must be a weird angle. I can't get it to match up with any photos in my guidebooks. Looks a lot like Boston Basin/Cascade Pass area.
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That truck is perfect except for the missing half of the gun rack.
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Nice work choss dogs
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Glad to hear you'd take a stove next time. Hard to keep reasonably hydrated without one and really cuts your margin for error.
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Bob:
With all of your incredible knowledge, I think you should join your local Mountain Rescue Unit. Here's a link for you to get started: http://wcsar.org/bmrc/applynow/
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I'm sure you could find a spot out there but it's pretty hairy. I watched a huge avalanche sweep out a good 1000' onto the Carbon glacier from a serac calving off a few years ago. I was glad to be at Thumb Rock as it rumbled by. Does the flat area you marked on your map appear to have avalanche debris on it in the photo above?
My concern with your strategy is that most climbers want to climb the ridge below Thumb Rock while it's still cold in the morning and the choss is still somewhat frozen in place. Most climbers also want to climb the area above Thumb Rock while it's cold in the morning and things are locked up.
Can you go in the first night and get to the camp at the east edge of the Carbon Glacier? It's pretty benign up to that point if memory serves correct.
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Solo glacier travel by a newbie in June on the Coleman Demming is a definite NO in my book. Check out google earth.
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Did you guys manage to get some suffering in? Looks pretty sweet!
[TR] Bear Mountain - North Buttress: Beckey Route 07/15/2018
in North Cascades
Posted
Crazy ending to a great TR!