ryland_moore
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Posts posted by ryland_moore
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I'd contact Mike over at Backcountry Sports. He has been around those columns for a long time and will know exactly what is acceptible practice there. Are you absolutely positive no one has ever tried to free the crack? Is it over to the right of the main climbing? You are talking about Skinner's Butte yes? If Mike says that it is not a good idea to be pounding in blades, ask him where a good place to do so would be.....Texplorer from this board, although living in Texass, would also be a good resource. Also, once the snow clears head up to Wolf Rock and do some of those aid lines. Pretty spicey!
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The southern Pickets are way more remote than the Torres or Fitzroy/El Chalten!!!
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I mentioned TC becasue that is about the only place you climb consistently. If the comment was made by DFA, I would have said, "why don't you leave Smiff and head down and check 'er out then?" Or if it were Dru, I would have said, "Why don't you leave your computer and check 'er out then" or if Mikey Layton, I would have said," Why don't you leave Da Toof and head down and check 'er out then"..........
So uptight about a place that isn't all that good in a worldly sense..... -
markd, the only reason I mentioned TC is becasue A5 is there every weekend, both climbing and cleaning est. routes. No jab, just heard you climb at TC from Chad W all the time and I simply said, check out Patagucci. It is an awesome place when the weather cooperates!
Yeah, tough to armchair it from a picture when you can't see what the route looks like above. If it is dangerous and loose, then by all means bolt the crack for protection. I doubt anyone would take the time to place a bolt in an environ like that unless absolutely neccessary, although that does not stand true for the Compressor Route, now does it...
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AFIVE, maybe you should go down there and send it in full trad style and take a break from Trout Creek then??
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I am relaxed. Just chuckling at the recreational darwinist move you had and had to poke a little fun. Glad you are o.k. and that the ice didn't come down on you while on route. Patience is a virtue.....
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Ah, the perils of trying to push it when the ice is not "in". Had two friends out there yesterday looking at it in the morning and said it was definitely not in climbing condition. It is your fault, so drive the measly 20 mins. and go get the rope yourself! At least you will get practice jugging for aid this summer! Doubt if anyone is dumb enough to climb it today with temps getting above freezing.........
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Wfinley, to make a statement like that you would have to be from AK, which you are not. There is a qualification that you had to have lived there for at least 30 years with the only access to your quarters is by float plane to call your self an Alaskan, unless you were actually born there. Everyone else is just a visitor or an escaped convict or child molester.
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A very, very, long ski/skin, snowshoe in
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Go check it out and report back! I am swamped with work, otherwise I'd head up there with ya. Shouldn't be too hard to recruit with this weather window. Mountain looked awesome in alpenglow this evening while riding the max across the steel bridge...
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Climbing the classic Great Arch (5.5) at Stone Mountain State Park, North Cakalakie with a family friend and climbing idol when I was 14. It was my first rock climb and I was hooked from that point forward!
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Damn. I have a dinner for work. Post party?
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Another good thing is to make a move and lock off and count to five before moving again. On a small wall it will allow you to get a good pump, increase lock-off power, and increase body tension. Focus on breathing which will help you focus more on that crux when you are pumped!
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Vegas/Red Rocks!!!!!! Warm weather and clear skies!!!!!
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John, not too cold if your bag is warm enough! I would recommend the opposite. If you can stay at 17k, do so, as you will feel better on summit day, safer, and overall will have your supplies a lot closer to you if you need some type of emergency assistance.
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I am also a transplant from the South and had to adjust. There is no steep sandstone sport crags around, but excellent opportunities for granite alpine in the N. Cascades, quick jaunts out to the Gorge for single and multi-pitch trad, and glacier and ice bouldering on Hood. Every now and then, we get some ice within 20 mins. of PDX (like two weeks ago!) and it is awesome, although short-lived.
You also have Leavenworth for alpine in WA about 4 hrs away, Smith Rock (the origination of sport climbing in the U.S.) for sport only 2.5 hrs away, and plenty of climbing gyms and locals' garages to get strong during the rainy season , or just learn to tele ski and do a lot of backcountry.....I will not move back and climbing is the main reason I live out here. Plus the beer rocks compared to the South. Also, the city is the perfect size. There is nowhere in the South that is this size, beautiful, confined, has all of the amenities, with recreation so readily accessible. And the coast is not too far away, and we have huge salmon, steelhead, and trout out here that would make any fish out of the White River seem worthless......FWIW....
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Buttermilk Pie!
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Also, a buddy from college owns the Magic Bean hostel and restaurant in New Town QUito. Check it out. Pretty cool. If you want to do some fishing, he is an awesome flyfisherman and can point you in the right direction, whether fishing streams or on the coast (but being from Charleston, SC he prefers salt water flyfishing).....Summers are less reliable for weather and conditions on the glacier, but if you are down there long enough, I am sure you will find a weather window....
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Screw bouldering and go ice climbing in Lee Vining!!!!! It is only a little ways up the road from Bishop. We used to use Lee Vining as a "rest day" during Spring Break when climbing in the canyon and bouldering. It is an easy day trip from Bishop.
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I commented on the previous discussion on ADD, mainly becasue I have been diagnosed with it, and it in no way affects my ability to climb. Damn, wish I had had parents that made me feel like I had a dibilitating ailment that I needed to get over and climb the 7 summits! Next thing you know, we will have a climber with "Restless Legs Syndrome" (yes, it is real and one can get medication for treatment) who completes the 7 summits with a list of sponsors in tow.....
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What DPS said. I usually climb it earlier, but I live out here. I climbed it in August this year via Emmons and practically had the route all to ourselves. A little icier and many more crevasses were open, but still an outstanding time to be on the mountain and the fewest people I've ever seen on this route.
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Plark, why not take her up the cat track on the right at T-Line to the top of the Palmer and then ski back down? That is what it is there for......
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With global warming, it is getting even more difficult to climb the easier volcanoes. Illiniza Norte has a serious Grade V up to 60 degrees that used to be the standard route!
I would rec. heading up the big three and can knock them all off in about 10-14 days with acclimation. You can hike one of the 15k foot volcanoes near Quito to help acclimate. Hang in Quito for a few days to get used to flying to 9k and head up.
No need for a guide, but if you feel comfortable, then do so. I would start with El Cayembe, then Cotopaxi, and finally hit up Chimborazo. Then, when finished head to the hotsprings town of Banos. A guide for AAI put up a bunch of sport climbs down in the gorge upstream of town near the zoo. You pay a farmer to access his property and can hike down into the Gorge and sport climb. Fun way to end a high altitude trip and you feel like superman once down in the lower environs.
Don't forget to hit up the town of Otovalo for their awesome markets and bartering options!
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Also, I'd check out Ben Moon's site: www.moonfoto.com
Cool site from a nice guy and talented photographer. Here's your competition!
Nailed at the Columns
in Rock Climbing Forum
Posted
My bad, Tex! I forgot you moved to Vegas to clip bolts and work for an all-male revue pretending you were from Australia. Hiding behind med. school as your front didn't last long!!!
