Dru

quote: Originally posted by max: A comment (not particularly applicable to the original question) on simu: I hear so much about how simu is fast and how speed equates to safety. But something I think many peole don't consider is simply getting in shape is a good way to increase speed w/o compromising safety. I'm not saying simu isn't a valid technique, but if you're really interested in speed (safety), getting in shape is the first thing to do. if you are out of shape then you will be slow either belaying or simuling. what is your point? no matter how fit you are in most cases you will move faster soloing than simluing than belaying. like for example i can solo banana peel in 15 minutes, simul it in about 25, or pitch it all out and it takes an hour or two. the exception is where you are too scared to do the move soloing but crank it off first try with a rope on.

I remember the S7 ad for their Mushin pants with a model girl wearing them, "WOULDNT YOU LIKE TO GET IN HER PANTS"

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Wishful thinking Dru. May they stay pipe dreams Man my new signature kicks ass i predict you will change that sig pretty damn quick in a few more days when the wings get dumped.

The final will certainly see a western team winning. i predict a Vancouver- Montreal final with Vancouver whupping the Habs 4-0 in the series.

I read in Weekly World news once about some guy that had his nipples transplanted to his buttocks.

i have fallen off exposed 3rd and 4th class.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: quote:Originally posted by Dru: Pink Flamingo. As in the Movie? Are you a fan of Divine? I am Divine's love child No Im saying a plastic pink flamingo is the 11th esential. It jazzes up summit pics and it gives slow parties an incentive to let you pass. Also you can ride it down the Roman wall. Additionally it is a chick magnet and a passable pillow.

quote: Originally posted by VitaminGu: dru's 1) is what I meant by running belay. 3) is interesting, but wouldn't this create hellacious rope drag? Safer than soloing but slower than soloing too. YOUR CALL. 3) only creates drag if you do it wrong. Works best when shortroped about 20m apart. In the PNW you can often use trees as well as rocks

quote: Originally posted by 8ball: For what it's worth, I've actually been to several of these shows at TNF...Here's my take: Believe it or not most of these folks that give slideshows are in no way sponsored by TNF. Once in a while, they might actually have Conrad Anker or some other "sponsored" athlete do a show, but TNF does these as "Community Outreach" type events and the events range in scope from Adventure Travel in South America to shows like this one. The shop's only benefit for doing these shows is to get a few more people into the store and MAYBE buy an item or two. I've actually met the guy who is giving this slideshow and while they did use some TNF gear, TNF didn't GIVE them ANYTHING for their trip. They're just average blokes like the rest of us, out to have a good time in the hills. Dude savaisuini posts here let him defend himself for his plan to Sno-Cat down Cassin ridge

The only fun more fun than a bolt war is debating if chalk is aid or if a yoyo constitues a valid free ascent

1) one climber places pro and second climber takes it out so there is always a few pieces between you (standard simulclimbing practice); OR 2) unrope so one climber does not drag other off; OR 3) weave the rope around natural features such as horns and blocks to provide natural running belays. OR 4) back off! One option NOT to consider. 5) BOLT THE HELL OUT OF IT. This option is NOT an option.

John did you ever think of getting better snow conditions by climbing at night via headlamp and/or moonlight?

quote: Originally posted by Doug Hutchinson: If you want to spend money and get the real deal, buy a pair made out of Shoeller (sp?) dryskin. All big name companies have them now (it's all the rage these days). At $100 to $200 a pair, it may seem crazy, but I've climbed and skied in one pair for over five years and they are one of the best investments I have ever made. Light, strong, mostly windproof, etc. MEC used to sell a generic pair for about $70 USD. You wouldn't regret this purchase if your credit is up to it. You know for traditional rock climbing a gusseted pair of heavyweight canvas pants will work much better than Schoeller. An alternative to cotton, bit more spendy but more durable is CORDURA, the stuff they make packs out of. Schoeller isnt much more durable than heavyweight canvas. It does stretch a bit but a real good way to wreck a pair of Schoeller pants is to climb offwidths in them.

Pink Flamingo.

quote: Originally posted by projecthex: i bet youd like to give us your sharp little end. dirty bastard, i was talking about ice climbing. Are you saying you're frigid?

silly cascadecrimer, mumus are for ice fests not rock climbing. personally i have found carharrts work good for wide crack and OW but then you look like a trendy like Erik. best climbing pants ever are the stretch polyester ones you get at Value village Goodwill or Sally Ann for $2.99. you will finf they accessorize well with the polyester sport jacket because when you road trip in them you are well dressed enough to go stand in the soup kitchen line after with all the other bums.

After I bolt the bong to Muir Hut for good measure I will bolt Dan Larson to the summit of Rainier. I will bolt Ray Borbon to his avatar creating machine. I will bolt my lunch and run back to my computer. Remember "bold" is not spelled with a t.

I got one of those West pole Brand jackets too. I found it had spent 6 years on a corpse on Rainier and had only delammed a little bit. The corpse was mummified so it onbvoisly was kept dry. WESTPOLE FOREVCER. What all the best dressed mtneering casualties wear. Joe Simpson said "I knew I couldn't die on siula because I wasn't dressed for it - I left my West Pole anorak at basecamp." West Pole - Gear for Stroking The Void.

quote: Originally posted by projecthex: Dru, I heard you get some no hands fun by sitting on the sharp end of your tools. send reply to: projecthex@spokeradio.com I got a sharp end for you Projectbumbly.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: just moved into the PNW. Issaquah. Is this yet another example of his masochism? The dude will be biking to and climbing up all the mountains within a 7,000 mile radius, no doubt. Maybe they kicked him out of Sweden for shameless self promotion? Cause according to Goran everyone else in the world but him cheats and lies about their accomplishments?

I will bolt a giant bong to Muir Hut.

My alpine problem bolts are on the Grimface to Matriarch traverse in Cathedral Park BC. There is a good topo in Beckey guide. What it doesnt show are about 10 bolts out of 14 on the route which are totally unnecessary. some are on 3rd/4th class slabs. Some are right next to good anchor cracks. There are 4 bolts on route which do make sense (two for aid and two at a rap station with no natural anchor) but the rest were placed by an unnamed Penticton guide so that he could guide the traverse without placing gear, as near as i can tell. if i ever go back there i will go with a wrench and remove the offending hangars and make sure the bolts are nailed in and unusable (7 hr hike is a long way to carry a crowbar). that said bolts next to (within reaching distance of) protectable cracks or holes or pockets is the only thing I have a problem with, that and bolts so close together you trip over them and it breaks your rhythm to clip. generally speaking i cant see a difference bwetween bolts placed on lead or rappel except that if you fall off bolting on lead with the power drill you borrowed from a friend and wreck it he probably will be drinking your beer forever ps if you think rappel bolted climbs aren't bold i have a few for you to get on they are all 5.9 or easier no matter what number is in the guidebook

sk are those twins 'double' or 'half'?

quote: Originally posted by gapertimmy: i love when people like hex get loaded and come back and spray, it always provides a good chuckle to start out my day. oooohhh that rhymes yeah but it doesnt scan, you need more syllables in second line.

After this summer I will be selling that Beckey bolt from slesse on eBay as a historical artifact. with enough avatars i can bid the price up sky high.