Goal: climb a lot
Solution: climb a lot. When not climbing, spray and read about climbing and look at climbing pictures and so on.
More climbing = less training.
Zodiac Wall on the Chief got a VI on the first ascent, Burton & Sutton agreed it was a VI on 2nd ascent, it's never been repeated since I think...however harder routes either side of it have now been done and are V, so???
The NE ridge of Steinbok is only a V even though its an ED2.
Bald Egos on the Chief gets a VI.
Funk Soul Brothers and MainWall in Powell River get VIs.
The PLI Wall in Princess Louisa will get a VI if it is ever finished
I think that's it?
de Jong, Zozikyan and Scott Flavelle worked on it at first. Flavelle bailed out. Zozikyan got injured somewhere (in Squamish i think) after they had spent a total of 10 days working it (I believe they were seiging it and fixing from the ground & that 10 day span was not continuous)
Max finished it off solo in another 8 days spread out over 3 separate trips. Hence most of the aid I believe. But Max is a strange guy who made a point of nailing up Unfinished Symphony after it had been done clean & free. He mostly quit climbing around 1990 for paragliding. Supposedly according to Shaun who talked to him on the phone he's psyching up to do some climbing again.
i wouldn't say RAD. exactly. except it is rAD we survived!
i mostly didnt take any pictures of the climbing due to sucky belays and no ability to get into my pack for the camera. but i have better pictures of the face from the base and so on.
i measured from the online topo and it really is 600m vertical to the summit (this note inserted for Serl who likes to call people on inaccurately stated base to summit verticals, see also Alpinist #3 letters to the editor )
Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance is TOTALLY made up hippy BS. The dude doesn't even know fuck all about motorcycles. Ed Abbey wrote a funny review of it pointing out all the mistakes in motorcycle maintenace and suggesting maybe that is why the dude is so fucked up cause he chestbeats so much about fixing a cycle he knows nothing about.
The Don Juan books are all made up BS except the first one, but they are still worth reading I got through four before I lost interest. I think there are 7 or 8 altogether?
one time i was trying to lead da zip and i got my hand in the pod and threw in a #2 flexy friend and grabbed the biner to clip, and clipped with the rope over my finger, and yelled Take and my finger got caught between the biner and the rope and i had a fingertip with no feeling for 3 months. hangdog epic
i heard that mr e posted a poll you could vote on
option 1: I want Rope Up to be a dirtbag grassroots party with TG beer and minimal organization
option 2: I want Rope Up to be a fully organized party with clinics and raffles (rafflehounds?) and top rope setups and pancake breakfasts and Pyramid beer and the timetable planned in 15 minute increments all 3 days.
but it (the poll) was deleted by a moderator?