Dru

the example shows that reeling in increases fall factor and force on pro meaning pro is more likely to pop. conclusion: reeling in should only be employed if it will prevent ledge fall or ground fall.

bring back mtngoat

j-b just said easy routes for both climbers indicated the routes in question were in the easy category hmmmm?

body armour was no help in this case

Derek Hersey Steck Salathe 5.9 Alex Lowe normal route Cho Oyu or Shisapangma or wherever experienced climbers easy routes

Lambone - your buddy sounds like a cool guy. Sorry to hear of your loss. When you says his morals came straight from the Bible, and then mention his several girlfriends, I guess you mean the Old Testament and the multiple wives thing

I bet Omega Pacific is gonna hire him to be Biner Manufacturing Manager

North Pole, Canada: Province, Nunavut. Postal Code: H0H 0H0. This is where Canadian and international letters to Santa are sent. Lat 90N. Longitude irrelevant. Don't try and pretend you are more northerly than that, Strickland!!!

trivia: Leader falls from 50m above belay to 50m below belay. Factor 2 fall. Leader falls from 50m above belay but belayer takes in 10m of rope. Ends up 40m below leader. Fall factor is 90/40 = 2.25

check it out hey lurker if you read this I want a hot climber babe in my stocking for Xmas![/url]

spider freshiez! Should probably be in Freshiez Forum but silly mods would move it to spray anyways Don't let this happen to your Pieps!

trask is hiring!

I used a hand placed hooked Spectre on a mixed route once -M4 var to 3rd pitch Gib wall - that was my only pro on the whole pitch [insert chest beater icon here!!!!!]

Even experienced climber get in accidents on Cascade. I know of one climber with over 10 years of experience who was soloing up the lower approach ice when he caught a frontpoint in his pant leg, tripped, and slid over 100' down low angle ice before managing to self arrest (with a Quark, in a bush sprouting from the ice!) just before shooting over the 40' high cliff at the bottom of the route. Analysis of the accident indicated said climber was still asleep resulting from a free bivi in an unheated shack in the woods the previous night (-20C) and if he had been approaching a more difficult climb likely would have been more psyched and hence more alert and apprehensive of danger. Put another way: free soloists fall and die off 5.7-5.9 climbs, not off 5.11s and 5.12s.

How many feminists does it take to screw in a light bulb? "One, and THAT"S NOT FUNNY!"

10, 000 points on yer 8a.nu scorecard!

I have made more posts than any of you

record setting micro snafflehound

DID YOU WATCH THE FILM? The bank gave him a gun. So he called ahead and told them he was coming - how does that change the fact they were willing to give him a gun on film? CBS you are coming from Planet Clueless with extra strength today!

If your C is assessed as a fatal accident before you forget your helmet, then forgetting your helmet does not increase C.... Basically its a trade off - you go light and decrease T, exposure time, in return for accepting some increased hazard (PxC), in order to reduce risk. Case in point: Slipstream. You have at least two hazards: death from fall, and death from avalanche. Yet you go light, and solo most of it, vastly increasing your exposure to death from falling, in order to reduce your exposure to death by avalanche - "speed is safety" and better the 2 hr Twight solo than the 20 hour belay every pitch ascent.

I'm sure the bank thought "Hey we wouldn't give a gun out to just anybody, but let's give one to Mike Moore so we look like idiots in his next documentary!"

Matt - it is as true for deaths as for injury. Cascade Waterfall is the most dangerous route in the Rockies. However it is impossible to accurately calculate the accident probability per ascent because complete ascent statistics are not available. It may or may not be the case that there are something like 5 accidents per 1000 ascents of Cascade and 3 per 100 on Slipstream but we do not have the data to confirm or deny that hypothesis. Certainly a lot of the accidents on Cascade were caused by judgement errors that would likely not have occurred on Slipstream but Cascade also has a lot of avalanche deaths due to the "bowl of death" above, just like Slipstream and its seracs.... There don't seem to be almost any accidents on the Trophy Wall (Terminator etc) and those routes get sent a lot nowadays, take a number style line ups and everything...

stats show the majority of accidents occur on technically easy routes - ANAM in any year will tell you this. Also the vast majority of mountaineering accidents occur on gaper type alpine routes. There are obviously exceptions to these statements - I can think of Slipstream for instance - but more way more climbers have been injured and killed on Professor Falls and Cascade than on Slipstream. They just weren't famous climbers.....