Dru

Come on. Spoofs are funny. This is lame. It reminded me of pope and Dwayner pretending that via ferratas are sport climbing.

smoke less weed pal. open a friggin guide book and see how many routes are on mt wilson alone. then look at weeping wall area, howse area. just because YOU can't climb that shit doesn't mean it doesn't exists. most likely jus the stanley glacier headwall holds more ice then washington and lillooet put together. I know poles can't count higher than 11 even with their fly unzipped. Simple fact - within 60 km from Lillooet there are more established ice routes than within 60km of Rampart Creek. Sure Polar Circus is long, Weeping Wall to Weeping pillar is long, but those aside most routes in the area are no longer than a long Lillooet route like Shriek or Capricorn or Mother.

east of wadd. if there was a highway in it you would be able to drive as close to waddington as you can to robson.

how long is goat wall?

Are you placing a screw at knee level here, or what?

that video is a fake.

i always run out of gas driving around the parkway from rampart. that thing is like 230km long and the climbs are spaced out quite a bit. if there was an all-weather highway through homathko canyon there would be probably 10x the number of ice climbs in it per km as along the parkway.

what do you think "baaaa--aaaaaaaaah" baaaaaaaaaa---aaahh bah bah" means? is that a 9600 baaaaah'd modem?

actually, the thing about the rockies is that the climbs are so fucking far apart except in little clusters like field. the density of climbs around hope or on the duffy is way higher than in the rockies. but the rockies have 2 big advantages 1) consistent road access up most major drainages - there are thousands of unclimbed routes around here you literally cannot get to in the winter short of a chopper 2) a season that is 6 months long as opposed to 1 week (hope) or 2.5 months (lillooet) but, all things considered, when both areas are formed up and fat i'd way rather be climbing ice here than in the rockies. the rockies is somewhere i'd go when i can't climb here, just like i will only go to smith rocks if it is raining or cold in squamish

A "rake point" is a term used by ice farmers to describe an ascent of a mixed line that grooms the ice and puts in the pick holes for someone else's redpoint. EG: "Dude, is that rig M10? Can you go up and rakepoint it for me and hang some draws on those fixed screws?"

I think he pulled but not all night.

So you're gonna drive down to Enumclaw?

Exactly - it's not about conditions. Wayne1112 and artesonraju (I think) climbed Yak Check in March last year with sunny, warm conditions as a rock climb. That was the "first winter ascent" even though it had no "winter conditions". A far different ascent from when the guys from UCC climbed Yak Crack as an ice/mixed/drytool climb in -15C with spindrift in the late 90sfor the FWA of that line. So this ascent was under "winter conditions" but was not a 'winter ascent". Personally I think the winter conditions thing is the important part - you have to go when the conditions are good. What are you gonna do, wait for the solstice and this rain to come in? But it wasn't "in da winta". It was a couple days too early. Calling it a 'winter ascent' is like calling a flash an onsight. The ascent is still technically impressive but it is mislabelled. So anyways lets stop talking about quibbles like this and talk more about the climbing! Did you guys have any Spectres with you? They are the shit for frozen moss...

Take longs slings with which to tie off spiders!

i wouldn't mind spending the night in this one

Rules are rules.

You guys have these sex clubs too. They are called "Enumclaw barns"

I hope it snows every day down there

What's your high score then metalface?

The snaffle game is freakin' hard!!!

rub it in!

Tell that to the Poles who put the beat down on Lafaille last year in the Himalaya. Isn't it winter in Siberia like 300 days a year anyhow? So the only ascents worth claiming would be "summer ascents". Maybe first summer ascent of Multnomah Falls?

If somebody came in and said they had "onsighted Chain Reaction with one hang" then it wouldn't really be an onsight now, would it?