One sneaky way YOU can go light and fast is by getting some other people to go slow and heavy and run support for you. Say you want to do NR Stuart in a day. Well you could have one party camping at the base with your rack. Another party at base of Great Gendarme with large cams fixed ready for you, and some snacks and water. Another party waiting at top with more snacks and water, that you hand off the no-longer-needed gear and ropes to. Etc. 
  
To get this many stooges you'd need one of those Evil Genius hypno-rays or something. Mind control strawberry Koolaid. Or you'd have to be seriously HOTTT with a bunch of desperate guys on your string.