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Retrosaurus

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Posts posted by Retrosaurus

    Wired or Slung???

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by bobinc:

    An old trick on the smaller hexes/stoppers etc is to expoxy the wires at the nut end so they can't poke back through the nut. This makes it easier to place and remove them (but makes it so you can't use them as ad hoc hangers on hangerless bolts).

    or quickdraws.

    Wired or Slung???

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Wired hexes look much prettier on your rack and so are much preferred for posers.

     

    Climbers on the other hand will find that to properly place a hex most of the time you will need to grab the nut itself (not the sling or wire) and wriggle it into place to make sure that it is seated in just the right place and oriented in just the right direction. Wires often hinder this bu pushing against the side of the crack like a spring (that can also make cleaning more dificult. And some times they stick straight out of the placement translating rope movemont to the nut more effectively, increasing the chance of the placement being disturbed.

    Death at the Coulee

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Clyde Soles:

    While this doesn’t apply to older ropes, the current standard states that

    (1)a static rope has a solid color with a single strand wrapping around the rope and

    (2)a dynamic has multicolors with crisscrossing strands.

    Paul and/or Erden,

    Which of these standards did Goran's rope conform to?

     

    [ 10-10-2002, 09:48 AM: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ]

    What You Know Now

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Mr. Natural:

    What about the directional piece thing? ...Nuts are not even close. Sorry for the remedial shit for most of yall ...

    One huge BULLSHIT on that one. Some of the best multi-directional anchors you will ever get will be the single nut.

    1) A nut in a horizontal crack will often be as secure against an upward as a downward pull.

    2) A nut threaded through a keyhole slot and then clipped with a runner will not pull out until the biner is removed no matter the direction of pull.

    3) In the vertical crack when the nut goes in and then slots down sometimes a six inches to a foot behind a constriction, while not a true multi-directional placement are often very secure against an upward pull.

     

    NUTS ROCK.

     

    [ 10-08-2002, 11:08 AM: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ]

    Nesakwatch Spires' new routes

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Tyrone Shoes:

    I'm from Italy, and the people appretiate when a citizen puts the time and money into the local mountains...

    You already wasted your money on a plane ticket.

    Don't waste it on bolts on alpine granite (on this continent).

    You need another plane ticket.

    The sooner the better.

    Take The Bone with you.

     

    [ 10-02-2002, 12:32 AM: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ]

    West Ridge of Stuart

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Lambone:

    Just because I can't stand bad beta:

     

    ...There are signs at either end of the Longs Pass trail. One at the fork on the Tumwater side, and one at the fork at the ingalls creek side...

    Tumwater side? That trail must be a lot longer than I thought.

     

    Alienz says there's a sign on the Tumwater side too.

     

    And to think I have been approaching from the Teanaway. I could have saved myself an hour of driving time. [Roll Eyes]

     

    BTW: There is a sign for Longs Pass on Ingalls Creek trail, just like The Bone said.

    Enchantments

    in Climbing Partners

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Peter Puget:

    Wrongo Boyo! The object of my desire, at a svelte 5' 9" (or maybe 8), not only looks great while she climbs but drinking coffee and eating a scone with her is as much fun as going to the crags! And when she straps that d*&^% onto her harness and f@#!%s me in the a$$! WOW!

    Stuart north ridge - solo

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    -

    One of the things that Snot has in common with the pika: Coprophagy (eating feces).

     

    Snot-tryx, (like Pikas) excretes two kinds of solid waste. The first kind is soft and dark green. Pikas reingest this "waste", which still contains digestible nutrients. Reingestion is either immediate (as it's excreted)or after storage in the haypile. The Snot-tryx has even been reported to ingest feces before it is excreted (see above) due to its peculiar, insatiable affinity for shit-eating. The final scat is a tiny version of the familiar rabbit pellet, round and brown. Pikas don't reingest this scat, so it collects in haypiles over the years.

     

    And I thought 47 packets of gu was hard core.

    N Pickets/Fury NE Face

    in North Cascades

    Posted

    Great climb, Steve and brilliant photos. If I go another season without doing that route it will be because I died. I was going to do it two years ago but broke my ankle on Mt Stuart instead and am just now feeling up to the rigors of a trip like that. Again, great job; and thanks!

    Stuart north ridge - solo

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Alex:

    ...heres one to Scotty, since he still has a good shit-eating attitude despite all the crap everyone flings him.
    [big Drink]

    Shit eating attitude? I believe he's developed a taste for it. [HORSECOCK]

     

    Forgot my radio and almost died...

    [laf][laf][laf][laf]

    ...of laughter.

     

    Go brush your teeth Snot'tryx.

    That looks like feces on your tongue. [Moon]

    Trail Work

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    If maintaining trails is so damned expensive, the FS could initiate an "Adopt-a-trail Program" instead of a charge for use system. I am sure there are enough outdoor organizations that would be interested to make a significant impact. Hell, there's probably enough Seattle Mountaineers to do half of what is needed. But this is assuming that the FS is more interested in serving the public good than in generating revenue to fund current and future paving and "development" projects that can also be sold back to us on a fee per use basis. Bad assumption.

    Stuart north ridge - solo

    in Alpine Lakes

    Posted

    quote:
    Originally posted by Johnny Rebel:

    Mitch my chestbeating brotha, congratulations on your hard man accomplishment.

    But why do you feel it necessary to publicly boast? Just curious.

    I assume that you are on this site to hear about climbing. It is my contribution to YOU. It is also a way for me to continue to enjoy the climb after the fact. How about sharing YOUR latest Best-Day-in-the-Mountains with us?

     

    BTW, everyone else's assessments were also correct .

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