Retrosaurus
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Posts posted by Retrosaurus
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Those cracks are not new. They have been there for years. Really.
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Smoker,
Thanks for your clear thoughts. I am very much interested in the Burke Bar. Any info is appreciated.
To All,
(Esp. Joe Citizen),
There are only five bolts left, one is spoken for. Get yours now and show your support.
Mitch
My appologies to Viktor Kramar. I do appreciate (most of) the work you do.
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In light of the recent anonymous threats made against the route restorers, I have decided to part with the six bolts and hangers that I have in my posesssion in order to purchase a superior bolt removal tool. It is called a Dayton Bar. It is about 5 feet long with a hollow rectangular tube handle and a really burly nailpuller-like claw and is virtually indestructable. This is your chance to contribute to the conservation of our vertical resources and to own a little piece of climbing history. For ten dollars (plus two dollars shipping and handling) you can have one of the retro bolts with hanger that was removed by Will, Ray and myself from Dan's Dreadful Direct and directly contribute to the purchace of a tool that will remove retrobolts more cleanly and efficiently, and to help maintain the spirit of adventure and respect for tradition embodied in our traditional crags.
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Looks like a half-body condom.
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I got one too. It was almost as cute as it was spineless. Will is gonna feel really left out if he didn't get one too. I hope those cowardly bastards weren't so insensitive as to leave him out.
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quote:Originally posted by willstrickland:Any chance you could transcribe the soloing on acid lines out of there and post them?
From Climbing no. 163, p.115:
Cosgriff briefly went to college in Santa Clara, California, then transferred to the University of Colorado in Boulder. At times, It seemed he might be heading toward normality -- he majored in math and fantisized about getting his credentials and teaching at Fairview High School in Boulder. "Just kicking back," he says. "I wanted to climb and just have a nice quiet life." But the pendulum kept swinging. He started climbing with the likes of Rob Slater, Neil Beidleman, Jerry Greenleaf, Bruce Bailey, Rufus Miller, Skip Guerin, "The Great Matt," and some partners who prefer to remain anonymous. He and one partner would head out on full-moon winter nights to Eldorado, drop acid to keep their fingers warm and enhance the graphics, then climb a 200-foot, mostly vertical 5.9+ route on Wind Tower called Metamorphosis. They had no rope for protection, only T-shirts that read "Blotter Is My Spotter."
The Slater profile in Climbing no. 156 makes no mention of acid solos. To the contrary, it affirms Slater's abstinence:
He promised to drink a beer with me after he triumphed on K2, and partake in all his friends' vices they had been egging him to try. He never wanted to do any of these things, and he never had. He didn't need to -- he was crazed on life. But after all the hard work and sacrifices and effort, and all the living life on his own agenda so that he would climb K2, he was ready to give up that agenda to please his friends. I don't need to drink that beer with Robbie, because I know he would have kept his word. In some ways it seems fitting that he didn't have to lower himself to that act, even if it was just one beer. Rob's purity remains intact, and therefore so does his spirit.
[This message has been edited by Retrosaurus (edited 08-01-2001).]
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Put your brain in your pocket and go.
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When in doubt,
Run it out.
and
Q: Vie du klimerz klime?
A: Vecause de loff tu ear de vind vissel tru dare earz.
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David,
It shouldn't be a problem to pick off both in a weekend trip. You could do the approach on Friday afternoon, bivy at Burgundy col, Chianti on Saturday and Burgundy and out to the car on Sunday.
It seems that the approach took about three hours but was a real nut-buster. The descents are reasonably straight forward with two ropes for the rappels.
There should be water 5-10 minutes below the east side of the col.
The wide crack on Chianti is really not that wide; it is really just fists, unless you have small hands.
I highly recommend the North Ridge option on the North Face of Burgundy. It has two or three pitches of very aesthetic climbing on a knife edge ridge very high on the spire.
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Two words for you, Mr.Puget:
Eschew obfuscation.
Ditto.
A couple of other salient points:
By adding fixed protection, we make mountains into something less than mountains.
Sport climbing, grid bolting, generalized proliferation of the sport is in the best interests of "the climbing industry" not the best interest of "the sport".
Organizations such as the access fund,and the climbing media (magazines), heavily supported by the climbing industry, are primarily concerned with the maintenance of access to climbing areas, and encouragement of large numbers of climbers so that the sport may proliferate. This is not in the best interest of the sport. This organization has done a very good job of entangling these two viewpoints to the point where the general climbing population cannot tell the difference.
By making the climbing "safe". Adding fixed protection to routes, larger numbers of climbers are encouraged to visit the mountains. The climbers that this encourages are the ones that lack the judgement/experience to provide their own anchors/safety. As the numbers increase, there are more accidents.
Do we really want the Cascades to become the Alps?
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Climbers have gotten along quite well without fixed belays on OuterSpace for over 40 years. Are modern climber's so lame as to need them now? You would expect that with modern gear belay bolts would be even less necessary or desireable.
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Those bolts are a lame attempt some bonehead with a power drill made to replace the old quarterinchers that had been weakened by weather and time. Instead of pulling the old bolts out drilling out the original holes to 3/8ths and installing new bolts, they just took the quick easy way and put new holes and new hardware in the rock. The intent was good but the results suck. As far as I know the old mangled ones were installed on the first ascent, so in theory replacing them is ok because is an attempt to maintain the climb in the spirit of the original ascent. But putting more holes in the rock is definitely unnecessary. And if there is actually plenty of gear placements available then there is no reason to upgrade them at all.
What about the addition of a bolted belay station to the Saber route? These bolts are inches from cracks. Should these bolts go away?
And the single bolt on the overhang at The Pearly Gates? Hmmmm??
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The blind leading the blind.
Please post your destination as soon as you choose one so that the rest of us can avoid being involved in a rescue.
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Pearly Gates. SnowCreek trail across the irrigation ditch to the first switchback. The trail is well marked with cairns.
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Hey Dru,
Cut it out. That hurts.
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Space cadet,
"Your" thread is now 3 pages long because you are so fun and easy to pick on.
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Oh pencil,
You keep putting your foot in your mouth and your head in your ass. Must taste terrible. But hey, if you don't know any better I guess it's not that bad.
Did we ask the bolters' identities?
Yes, Ray and others did. Made quite a production of it too. I don't know how you missed it. It must be kind of hard to see with your head in that dark smelly recess. Viktor said that he knew the bolters and that he would give them the message. (Viktor, were the bolters notified?)
And another thing. "Chop" is such an ugly word and not very descriptive of what Ray, Will and I did last week for DDD. "Bolt removal" and "route restoration" are much more accurate terms. Except for that 1/2-inch MFer on the bottom of the route. We had to "chop" that one.
But hey, good news! I found the right tool for the job. It's called a Dayton Bar and its 5 feet long! I bet it slips those pesky 1/2-inch bolts out nicely. This little jewel costs 60 bucks though. Anyone want to donate to a good cause?
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nerdom,
When I find an source for a 48-inch crowbar I'll let you know.
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Lambone,
Put the crampons back in the box before you hurt yourself (or the livestock). Are you sure you didn't mean spurs?
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quote:Originally posted by Pencil Pusher:Retro,To argue with every Tom, Dick and Harry that doesn't appreciate your bullshit shows just how willing you are to hear the bolter's story. I guess it's pull "warm and fuzzy" with a crowbar first, ask questions later, huh?No shit they don't step forward in front of a firing squad. They're all guilty as sin according to you, so it really wouldn't be YOU LISTENING TO THEM, now would it?Wannabe experts all over the damn place.
mr penisl puller,
I belive YOU started the name calling "asshole".
My tone is intentionally antagonistic because I am inviting attack. I will argue with anyone with an oppossing view point. It is especially appropriate in a public forum like this. The bolters have the same opportunity to be heard as I do. And if they feel that they are stepping in front of a firing squad, it is because their actions have overwhelming opposition. The bolter's opinions were solicited long before I removed those bolts. Hell, this is the internet. They could defend their actions and remain anonymous.
I did not waste any time stepping in front of the firing squad. I took the first opportunity to do so. It's easy to do when you know you're right. So, take your best shot.
Let's hear some more of your leaky arguements.
Like this one: "the rock is the loser in the end" or "the rock is the one that suffers". As soon as you look at the before and after of bolt placement and bolt removal, this arguement is over.
BTW. The reason I brought up the cost of the crowbar "$8.59 PLUS TAX" is to make the point that it is much more cost effective to remove bolts than it is to place them.
bitchslap,
You must be poling the community at exit 38 or vertical world. This issue is about Castle Rock/ Leavenworth area, one of the oldest crags in the PNW. (Although it should translate to most other climbing areas.)
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You'll need 2 tools and pickets.
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mr.penicil puller,
Maybe you think that I'm an asshole because with only a year and a half of experience you lack the necessary experienceand perspective to form valid judgements.
The only way that the rock is guaranteed to lose is if the community does nothing, allowing this ethical creep to continue.
I am open to diplomacy; I always have been. But it takes two sides working together. The bolters did not step forward when before we took action and are not comming out now.
WAKE UP.
Can this mean anything but admission of guilt and shame? I don't think so. I think the perpetrators don't want to tarnish their reputation by admitting responsibility for their actions.
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The rock won this round.
[This message has been edited by Retrosaurus (edited 07-20-2001).]
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quote:Originally posted by Alasdair:After we identify who they are we should disscuss the issues with them in a level headed way, and not confront them as bitter crusty old climbers.
I am fully prepared to discuss the issues in a level-headed way; but I am a bitter, crusty old climber.
Just as I feel warm and fuzzy restoring a rock to its original condition, Rap Bolters feel all warm and fuzzy looking up and seeing "their" new shiny ribbon of stainless steel. Am I getting warm, Victor? Are you feeling ill?
[This message has been edited by Retrosaurus (edited 07-20-2001).]
Dan's Dreadful Direct restored
in Climber's Board
Posted
Bjorn:
Check with one of the places that rents construction type equipment to contractors.