Retrosaurus
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Posts posted by Retrosaurus
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I will never pay user fees. I would rather pay the fine if and when I get caught.
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dbb,
About 20 years ago on my first forray onto Snow Creek Wall, we climbed a route called White Slabs. On the route there is a bush at one of the belays. My partner, Darin led this pitch and when I arrived at the belay, he says "Look at this." He gave the bush a shake and ticks rained off of it like morning dew. After the climb I found ticks in all the usual places: scalp (especially the nape of the neck), armpits, waistline, socks, as well as a couple of places where we don't go in public.
I have often found ticks in my gear after climbing in "Tick Country". If I were you I would unpack the gear on a slab outside and give each piece a thorough once-over.
Have fun,
Mitch
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spray away
in Spray
Good move Tim.
Thanks,
Mitch
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Chepe,
I don't know who Who Cares is. I just want a front row seat at the !!BATTLE CAGE!!! Close enough to get spit on if possible. Rock On!!
And Curt,
I may be a dumb ass but am definitely not a dumb ass dude. DON'T CALL ME DUUUUUDE!!!! or it'll be you and me in the battle cage.
I may even sign on for the tag team chalupa wrestling match.
I think the new category is a great idea. When someone torques you off, you take it off the thread and to: THE BATTLE CAGE!!
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Chepe,
I don't know who Who Cares is. I just want a front row seat at the !!BATTLE CAGE!!! Close enough to get spit on if possible. Rock On!!
And Curt,
I may be a dumb ass but am definitely not a dumb ass dude. DON'T CALL ME DUUUUUDE!!!! or it'll be you and me in the battle cage.
I may even sign on for the tag team chalupa wrestling match.
I think the new category is a great idea. When someone torques you off, you take it off the thread and to: THE BATTLE CAGE!!
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This has all been highly entertaining. Maybe we should open up a special forum for slander, verbal abuse, taunts, threats, and personal insults. You know,like the WWF of the internet climbing community, where posting in the forum is like stepping into the ring. Maybe useful information could be somewhat separated from the Weekly World News type posts. I think these are great fun. And yes, I love The Weekly World News. It's so much fun to see people make asses out of themselves by taking other people's crap seriously.
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This has all been highly entertaining. Maybe we should open up a special forum for slander, verbal abuse, taunts, threats, and personal insults. You know,like the WWF of the internet climbing community, where posting in the forum is like stepping into the ring. Maybe useful information could be somewhat separated from the Weekly World News type posts. I think these are great fun. And yes, I love The Weekly World News. It's so much fun to see people make asses out of themselves by taking other people's crap seriously.
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Yes. The media ALWAYS gets multiple aspects of this type of situation wrong. And I'm sure that the guy's mom considers him
"experienced." That's what I used to tell my mom. It's her opinion, of course, that is really being reported.
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Yes. The media ALWAYS gets multiple aspects of this type of situation wrong. And I'm sure that the guy's mom considers him
"experienced." That's what I used to tell my mom. It's her opinion, of course, that is really being reported.
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It is named after a song by "Electric Mud", a high-voltage electric blues band that I was lucky enough to see in the Mangy Moose at the Jackson Hole ski area in February of 1993. This route rarely forms. It lies only a few miles north of Wenatchee. It is VERY roadside; almost zero approach time. Its formation is entirely dependent on sufficient surface melt in the feeder slopes visible above the climb. Most years it does not form at all. The rock of the cliff is terrible. There was no point on the climb at which you could just blast your tools in; there was just not enough ice. High Indiana Jones value. Maybe some year it will form fat and safer. There is a simple walk-off to the right and so the climb could be top-roped. I think it has had only one ascent.
Mitch
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It is named after a song by "Electric Mud", a high-voltage electric blues band that I was lucky enough to see in the Mangy Moose at the Jackson Hole ski area in February of 1993. This route rarely forms. It lies only a few miles north of Wenatchee. It is VERY roadside; almost zero approach time. Its formation is entirely dependent on sufficient surface melt in the feeder slopes visible above the climb. Most years it does not form at all. The rock of the cliff is terrible. There was no point on the climb at which you could just blast your tools in; there was just not enough ice. High Indiana Jones value. Maybe some year it will form fat and safer. There is a simple walk-off to the right and so the climb could be top-roped. I think it has had only one ascent.
Mitch
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God bless the pope. You can't argue with divinity.
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Baltimore,
You are part of the problem, not the solution. If you really believe in what you are saying, then you could effect the problem most positivly by staying off the site. Bye, bye. Don't let the door hit you in the A$$.
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Oggy, oggy, oggy.
Aye! Aye! Aye!
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true. true.
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Ock,
I climbed there on Sunday. We climbed a steep pillar on the right. What can you tell me about that ice crag? I know this is off topic for this forum. You could e-mail or post a private message.
Retro
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Iconoclast is a good route that deserves more credit. Do not let Kramar's topo intimidate you. There are some glaring errors. The pitch where you exit the Galaxy dihedral system onto the shield is a bit run out once on the shield, but only at mid class 5. That pitch ends at a gnarled pine as indicated. The next pitch is nothing like indicated. It is a classic little left facing book with a hand crack at the back that goes at ~5.7 and brings you directly to the extreme left end of library ledge. There is no single bolt and no 5.10c and no run outs on the pitch. The next pitch off the left end of library ledge is quality slab climbing and roughly as indicated. And the next pitch is fun too. Even if you can't climb 5.12, it is easy to French your way through. Edge of Space looks like it would be spectacular and I would love to try it some day, as soon as someone yanks those 1/4"ers and puts in some bolts (in the same holes of course) that would hold a falling fat boy.
Enjoy,
Retro
Steve,
I work evenings and often don't get home until the wee hours.
Retro
[This message has been edited by Retrosaurus (edited 03-08-2001).]
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Steve,
I did this route several years ago. These are the thoughts that come to mind:
There really doesn't seem to be a good way to get to the big ledge two pitches up. The RPM start is good, but serious.
The Psychopath pitch is very cool; I think it's the best pitch on the climb.
There is a 5.10 crux on pitch 4 that has confused me every time. I always got through it, but the solution never seemed obvious.
The pressure chamber SUCKS SO BAD!!! Overhanging. Flaring. Squeeze chimney. If you reach really deep into it, you can get a fist jam. But you can't pull up on it. You can only pull yourself tighter into the back of the flare. You can only move your knees about 4 inches because it is so damn tight in there. If you inhale really deep, your torso jams between your chest and back like a balloon blown up inside of a box. You can't fall out, but you damned sure can't go up. Beta: curse, squirm, grunt, sweat a lot, swear some more, repeat for 40 minutes. The only thing worse than leading this pitch is following it with a pack.
The exit moves are cool.
With the hard pitch variations, the route is solid grade IV.
I don't remember anything unusual about the gear required. You will probably want a large rack from thin nuts to four inch cams. (I think I had a four Friend and a four Camalot.)
I'm not sure, but I'm willing to bet that the route will stay pretty wet until the snow melts off the top of the wall.
Have fun.
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A point about V-threads that may not be well known: In good ice when tested to failure, it is often the sling material that fails and not the ice. The point at which the sling fails is the sharp angle where the screw holes intersect. If before you tie the sling into a loop, you saw it vigorously back and forth through the hole, you can increase the radius of the edge that the sling is loaded over and significantly improve the quality of the anchor.
I always clip V-threads on lead; usually with a load-limiting runner.
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Really? Write her name in the snow? At one go, without a break to rehydrate? What a woman! Bladder of steel.
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Jon,
What I would suggest is a waterfall ice climbs section under the route reports forum and then topics could be posted by area under that. That way It would all still be in one place but could easily be scanned for a particular area. If you are looking for waterfall ice it would be rather inconvenient to have to review each region of the route reports forum to see if some one has posted an ice report.
Retro
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Paul,
Yes, it's definitely posted, and no I didn't see a thing either, especially if the sheriff is the one asking. I can't wait to give the left hand route a crack. Those things drive me nuts, especially when there is no history on it. Sanity is the only thing holding me back. What a pity. Looks like it will have to wait till next year for fatter ice up top. Sanity sucks. There is still quality ice in Tumwater Canyon. Interested?
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Climbed at Banks Lake on Wednesday 2/28/1. First ascent? North of Devil's Punch Bowl, just south of Osborn Bay Lake, turn east on a public fishing access road that follows the south shore. An aesthetic trio of pillars is visible on the rimrock. We climbed the middle one. WI 5 ~100', short screws very handy near the top. Belayed from equalized sagebrush well back from the top of the climb. Rappelled 115' to the base from a large ponderosa pine ~100' to the right. The right-hand climb has also been done, but not by me, and looks to be a bit easier. The left-hand climb is definitely more serious; steeper, longer and more technical. Its top is somewhat thinned and may not protect well. Does anyone have other info on these climbs? I propose the name "Electric Avenue" for this area as Electric City is clearly visible from the climbs. Suggested names for the climbs: " Kilowatt", "Megawatt", and "Gigawatt".
There is STILL a lot of climable ice in the Columbia Basin.
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I stopped by the hospital today. Mr. Deveney is still in a coma and still on a ventilator. This is not good. The longer he is in this state, the worse the prognosis is.
It could have been me any number of times. I lived through a couple myself just this summer. It's a dangerous game that we play. It is easy to forget and it takes an event like this to remind us that we could lose it all at any time.
I re-evaluated climbing each time something like this hits close to home. The first time for me was a double body recovery from Dragontail Peak. Two women, both experienced, died on Triple Couloirs. One was found at the top of the couloir, sitting on a coiled up rope anchored to two ice axes, a shard of granite stuck through her helmet and into her head. The other woman had probably anchored her partner and gone for help. She was found on the snow, well below the couloir. She had been crawling with badly broken legs for a long way and died of trauma and hypothermia. I was grateful that they were wrapped up by the time I got there and I didn't have to gaze upon the bodies. I had only to help drag them the four or so miles to the trail head where snowmobiles could sled them out to meet their waiting loved ones.
I thought long and hard after that experience; especially about alpine climbing. I still climb. I've since climbed Triple Couloirs. And the routes seem to get more serious with each season. I just wouldn't know who I was if I didn't climb.
Lets pray, to whoever or whatever it is we each pray, for this man; he is one of us, in spirit if not experience. It could have been me at any time in the past, or future.
Ret
Message for Who Cares
in Spray
Posted
Bingo.
(But if we get to guess, Curt is from Colorado. I have heard many egocentric comments like this from Colorado climbers.)