Retrosaurus
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Posts posted by Retrosaurus
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quote:Originally posted by viktor:...(rock) is the one who suffers. Sleep well my vigilante heroes.
The rock suffered when it was drilled, not when the bolts were removed. The route is now much nearer to its original condition.
And yes, that route is too hard for me. But that does not justify drilling and bolting.
If you are foolish enough to supply hangars for this type of retro-bolting/vandalism that's your fault.
The route restorers have stepped forward and taken credit for what they have done. Where are those "experienced, well-respected, PNW climbers" that had to drill holes beside cracks to CHOP the route down to their level? They still wish to remain nameless and faceless. Does this tell you any thing?
RETRO-BOLTING IS CHICKENSHIT.
Mitch
(And why don't you fix those topos for Castle Rock; they suck. )
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quote:Originally posted by lambone:Ok, sure... puting a bolt next to a crack is a different issue. It's lame, enough said. But in my opinion, if someone goes out and retrobolts a route, the damage is done. The scar is there. You might as well make the best out of it. What the hell good does it do to go out and chop a route leaving a gnarly hunk of metal in the rock, just to prove your point.
You need the benefit of before and after pictures.
The damage that was done is now minimized.
The route is returned to its original climbing condition; no easier, no harder.
The "gnarly hunk of metal" has been hammered below the surface of the rock and can be patched to further restore the original appearance.
And that crowbar. $8.59 PLUS TAX!!!
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Originally posted by lambone:
I'd just like to see any of you guys get up on DDD now that its restored. I'll give ya a good belay, I promise...
That's just it. I'm not good enough to get up it without the bolts; but there are people who are. It is just wrong to bring the climb down to my level just so that I can get up it.
You need to look at the climb closely. There is gear available all over it. Chances are that if only the unprotectable section had had a bolt added, there would not have been such an issue. Not that adding bolts to an exixting line is OK either; it's not.
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You do it your way.
I'll do it mine.
(Just leave established routes alone.)
(And don't place bolts beside cracks. Even if you only have quick draws; and no nuts.)
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What about the crowbar?
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It made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside as I levered out the first bolt. And a powerful sense of satisfaction came over me as I hacksawed the bottom (1/2") bolt and hammered the stump of the stud back into the hole.
The route is now in as close to original condition as it has been since some nameless chickenshit recently perforated it with a power drill and studded it with stainless steel. Many of the bolts were a foot or two from good nut placements, not that that should matter. But I guess the retro-bolters didn't have any nuts; they had a drill instead.
I wasn't alone on this project, but was assisted by a couple of other community service minded individuals that I will not name but will let come forward if they choose to. Besides, think of the fun it will be to speculate. Although, that shouldn't be much of a challenge.
Now, one more time.
Does any one know the names of the "experienced, well-respected, PNW climbers" that should have been smart enough to know better than to retro-bolt on Castle Rock. I figure that they owe me $8.59 plus tax for a severely damaged, but still usable 36-inch crowbar.
Not while this dinosaur walks the earth.
Mitch
(Anyone know where I can get a 48-inch crowbar?)
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He's not fat. He's HUSKY.
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toketie
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Fuckinbastsard snafflehounds!!!! Camped on Snow Creek below the wall about a dozen years ago and the ferocious/fearless fuzzy litle rodents assaulted us as we were sitting around the campfire. We prevailed but it was a heated battle, won only after stomping on a pair of them and kicking their carcasses into our campfire. In the morning we discovered that they had eaten the heels out of a perfectly good pair of Scarpa rock shoes. Fuckinbastard snafflehounds!!!!
Where were you when we needed you Mr. Blister?
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I think that you should all put on condoms right now, just to be safe.
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You met those "Bucks" in prision didn't you. They will say anything you want to remain the object of your affections. There are more than that number of "Does" begging to vouch for the immensity of my unit. See you in ten years by which time you should realize that some ethnics age better than others.
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It wasn't an inmate it was a primate (yo mamma).
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I believe that the DDD rap-bolters will be "formerly-respected" PNW climbers when there names become known. I am offended by the bolts on DDD. I top-roped the route many years ago and thought that I would like to be good enough to lead it someday. Today I am. Not because I can climb any better than I could then, but because it has been "chopped" down to level that I and many others can deal with. This does not make it more valuable. I believe it is now of less value. I am in favor of chopping DDD. Any scars left would be less offensive than the new bolts. I have chopped routes before and will happily take part in chopping this one if Caveman can use my help.
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No one with all 23 pairs of chromosomes intact.
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Anywhere that resoles ought to sell you the rubber, and the cement is just neoprene based contact cement. You can use Barge's Cement or any other brand.
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Tastes like cardboard.
Chews like sponge.
It's really only garbage on a sesame bun.
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Hey Paul,
Are you going to do the lower north ridge? Cause if you are the "squeeze slot" on the Lower North Ridge, East side is much worse with a pack than the Gendarme is.
Mitch
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David,
I just resoled a pair of my four-year-old's outgrown canvas tennie runners. They climb great, are more comfortable than climbing shoes and are loads cheaper. I soled them with 5.10 aqua-dot. It's thinner and so doesn't compromise the feel as much and still gives the kid a little traction for running around in the dirt. You need to get a belt sander and sand the soles until all the old tread is gone too, to keep the sole from ending up too thick and to get maximun adhesion for the new sole. You should be able to get him outfitted for about $15. We just did a three pitch climb at Peshastin and they worked really great.
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quote:Originally posted by pope:I am so much more than just a walking salami.
Who do you think you're fooling?
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... a caulk gun with at least nine tubes of epoxy.
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Some first ascents? More than everyone else put together is closer to the truth. Bill Robins and Paul Certa. Chief grid-bolter is Kevin Pogue.
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Back in about 1980 my climbing gear consisted of a rope, four locking biners, 12' of 1" tubular for a harness, 30' for rigging anchors and hightop leather basketball shoes that I kept sewing the soles back onto with dental floss when the stitching wore off and the soles started to look like flip-flops. During this period of supreme ignorance I took a forty foot whipper on top-rope.
You can't make just one stupid mistake and accomplish anything this extreem; you have to make about four at once. I would drag any sucker that I could out to the undeveloped cliffs above my home town, equalize an anchor off about three sagebrush bushes and TR anything that I thought looked cool. My favorite rappel was an 80' convex slab with a fridge size boulder at the top for an anchor. We would sling this boulder and rap off the vertical face about half way down to where the angle of the slab eased and run back and forth across the face, springing out into space and spinnint around and doing other such shenanegans that you might see on a Mtn Dew commercial. Right of this slab is a funny wavy moss/lichenny L-facing chimney, that we decided to toprope after we tired of rappell buffoonery. I tried to flip the rope toward the chimney to position it more directly above our proposed route. After much effort it was still about 12 feet off to the left of the route. Good enough. (Mistake #1).
As I began to climb, tall dark clouds rolled over the top of the cliff and by the time I was about half way up, a full on cloud burst opened on us with hail and big pelting drops of rain. Almost immediately the walls of the chimney were running with water; the moss and lichen were all slicked up; and my cordurous were completely soaked. But my trusty partner had me securely on a hip belay and our anchor was bomber. I continued. (Mistake #2).
As I neared the top, things began to feel really desperate. The pull of 80' of wet 11mm rope through my off center top rope anchor was tugging me out of the chimney. I called for slack and continued. (Mistake #3).
As I reached the top of the cliff and put my hand on the greasy holds at the ledge, my feet greased off and I was airborn. (Mistake #4).
I managed to kick off and dropped twenty feet before the slack came out of the rope. As I hit the end of the rope my belayer with trusty hip belay locked off and went airborn himself for twenty feet before swinging back into the steep cheat-grass slope that he had run down as I fell. He had seen the desperation of the situation and wrapped the rope completely around himself a couple of times. Thank God.
I came to a stop without a scratch.
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Please no! It's just to much fun. And just what do you do with those lambs when you're done any way? I hope you don't just ride'em hard and put'em away wet. Where I'm from we shear sheep but I hear you're not shearing yours with any one.
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His belayer thought that he had been lowered to the ground when in actuality he was 40' off the deck.Instead of verifying this, his belayer who was late for an appointment, just cut him loose. What ever happened to "Off belay"?
Dan's Dreadful Direct restored
in Climber's Board
Posted
This is just what is now happenning. The fact that the retro-bolters have chosen to not take part can only be attributed to one thing:
THEY ARE ASHAMED OF THEIR UNJUSTIFIABLE ACT.