Retrosaurus
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Posts posted by Retrosaurus
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Flick,
Sure. Maybe tomorrow afternoon? E-mail me.
Mmmmm. Castle Rock, my favorite boulder.
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Before meeting a partner for a climb of Castle Rock I would take the beers down to the river and screw them into the sand under the water about two feet out from the bank. The look on my partner's face when we went down to the river to cool off after the climb was priceless when while wading in I reach under the water into the sand and pull out a cold one. And then another. And then another...
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quote:Originally posted by chucK:Do you exit left or right at the top of the handcrack? Exiting left seems much more difficult.
Exit right. As I see it, the exit left belongs to Devil's Delight.
Devil's Fright. Now there's one that is make-me-puke strenuous for its grade.
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quote:Originally posted by mattp:I think Crack of Doom is hard. That is one of those L'worth climbs that I believe has a "stiff" rating. Maybe I'm just old and weak.
Crack of Doom was 5.9 when I first climbed it. The jams are rip-my-arm-off solid. Any one else find the no-hands rest near the top of the crack?
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quote:Originally posted by OfficeSpace:Damnation is no offwidth eh? Let me watch you to see if you cannot get an armbar
I never got fists on damnation but did seem to get half my body in there. I never laybacked either. I think maybe you should check some definition of offwidth or maybe me.
I am concentrating on my numbers. I want to know what people think Canary is rated..
Half of your body, fists for a real climber.Works for me!
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quote:Originally posted by Szyjakowski:southern france, then it was spain...oh wait that was a dream last night
![[big Drink]](graemlins/bigdrink.gif)
Yeah, I bet you're still cleaning up from that dream.
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quote:Originally posted by Dru:aintchu guys ever heard of bollards?
I usually rapp off Canadienz. The polypro makes sure the rope pulls easily.
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Forged friends are totally bomber and will last forever. The trigger wires and cables are easily and cheaply replaced with fat nylon guitar string (G-string), and you will never have to straighten the wires again. I am still using first generation friends (vintage 1979) and they are as good as the day they were bought new. Ditto for dbb's comments, although I prefer them down to 1 1/2 now that the shaft width is narrower near the cams than it used to be.
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quote:Originally posted by CascadeClimber:a ritual that Jens and I go through: "Lemme see your knot.""Okay, my knot looks good, my biner is locked, my harness is doubled back.""Right. Strap on the dildo."We've had people look at us funny for doing it.
My, you two are close.
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Stay away from sport climbers and especially gym climbers. They are lemmings; mindlessly throwing themselves off precipices.
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Five Days One Summer
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quote:Originally posted by Recriminator:regarding retrosaurus; rumor has it that he is recuperating from carpul tunnel surgery, caused by the repeated wrist motion of hanger and bolt removel at Vantage. His mother now manipulates his key strokes for him under an assumed name . but wait there is more;the surgical procedure was a huge success, they removed his testicles which stoped the repeated wrist motion. watch for new posts under retro-ball-less
Recriminator, I hope you get the funds collected for your carpal-bunghole surgery. Too bad your HMO classifies this as an elective surgery. Repeatedly slapping your butt cheeks against Sexual Buttnugget's balls has taken it's toll on the both of you. Get well soon.
You think it's all laughs having balls of steel? Well let me assure you to the contrary. Besides the gait disturbance and that god-awful clanking noise, they get FUCKING COLD at bivies. Even you wouldn't let me spoon with you, Sugarbuns. Glad to get rid of those things. Maybe now I can get rid of the swami and get fitted with a harness. I understand that sport climbin harnesses fit really well without balls.
A year and a half ago I fell off of Mount Stuart while holding on to a piece of granite roughly the size of a Volkswagen. Rock and I fell free for about 20 feet before impacting a steep snowslope. The fall continued for about another 80 feet. Cartwheeling, rock, rope, ice ax, snow. The two pieces of gear on the rope did nothing to arrest the fall. After I self arrested with my hands and feet, I found that the rope had been chopped, pressure melted three feet from my bowline-on-a-coil tie in. Ripped the tips off of every digit, abraded the right side of my face, dislocated my left thumb, severly bruised left thigh from butt cheek to knee, and crushed the lateral aspect of my left talus (the bone that forms the lower half of the ankle's joint surface). There were no pieces of bone large enough to fix in place surgically. So I was casted for about six months while all the crumbs found a home. A month ago I had surgery to debride the joint of bone fragments. It now appears that my ankle is worse than before the surgery.
BTW, last time I was climbing on Sunshine Wall(on some trad horror, obviously), a party hiked past the base of the route. Two minutes later they came back and asked if we knew about the hangers missing from their favorite route. We did not. And then they left. Leaving us utterly alone in the coulee. I reccommend that everyone climbing at the coulee pack a wrench and continue the good work.
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The way I learned it, proper technique for belaying the leader hinged upon mastering one-handed rolling. But I since the grigri I fear it is a lost art.
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No, I'll pay more!!
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I'm sure the Mountin'steers could explain this. There must be a chapter on it somewhere.
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Ever notice that the poorer the anchor is, the more slings are on it to "back it up"? As if 20 slings around a pine sprig the diameter of a two-year-old's wrist sprouting from a one-inch crack somehow makes the pine stronger.
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The rock sections between the couloirs on 3x couloir on Dragontail; if I could just catch those pitches well-iced... What a hoot it'd be.
[ 01-24-2002: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ]
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quote:Originally posted by kevin page:I pick up balloons frequently while kayaking around the San Juans. They are always the small, party type.
Those are spent condoms.
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I am embarassed about posting here and would be humiliated to be associated with the copious amount of drivel on this site. But I have no self-esteem so it doesn't bother me that much.
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quote:Originally posted by kevin page:old and stiff
Don't you mean old and not nearly stiff enough anymore?
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Embrace the fear. Fear can be a powerful ally. Fear is a potent motivator. It can be a tremendous source of focus, concentration and power. Learn to use it.
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RURP,
I part my cheeks and launch a mud falcon at you.
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How about Brewer's Droop in Sheep River?
Terminal Gravity ought to have intimate knowlege of how this climb is hangin.
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quote:Originally posted by Terminal Gravity:Get all 22 cm BD express. You can always tie them off. No reason to screw around with different sizes.
Not true.
Tied off screws when tested to failure, lever down through the ice to below the horizontal, the tie-off sling slides down the tube and cuts on the hangar.
(Of course, if you don't fall it's all academic.)
Canary on Castle Rock
in Climber's Board
Posted
The openning moves of the 2nd pitches on both routes are similarly committing, although Canary is a little more serious.