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Retrosaurus

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Posts posted by Retrosaurus

  1. 1. Amphetamines and Reptiles

    2. Gorilla my Dreams

    3. 5.8 arete, #3, Little Bridge Creek Rock

    4. Pudding Time

    5. Shrinking Ball Disease

    6. Spinning Mars

    7. Pony Keg

    8. ?

    Medicine Man and Dance of the Shaman used to go to the top of the towers and were artificially shortened by the addition of TR anchors. Dance of the Shaman especially had some interesting,cruxy moves to the top of the tower.

    [This message has been edited by Retrosaurus (edited 10-08-2001).]

  2. quote:

    Originally posted by sexual chocolate:

    But he didn't do them from the ground up. I heard he rap-cleaned and rehearsed them first.

    Some I did ground up and some I didn't. But what did YOU do. You don't even have an identity. Is this "sexual chocolate" a reference to fudge packin' or what?

  3. Mystic,

    Lack of gear is no excuse not to trad climb. Even if you had all the gear, likely you would lack the experience to use it safely. You need to put energy in to developing a relationship with a climber with the experience that you lack; he already has the gear. I climbed for years with out a rack at all, because I have a passion for climbing. Sport climbers sport climb because they can stay in their comfort zone and don't have to put in the work to grow as a climber the skills knowlege and mental toughness that it takes to maintain an acceptable level of safety and to keep your shit together when you stray beyond it. That being said, there is room for sport climbing. There are places where it is completely appropriate, but often persuants of this "fast-food" form of the sport have not developed the experience/judgement to know where bolting is appropriate or just dont give a shit.

    -Mitch

  4. quote:

    Originally posted by goatboy:

    I'm also wondering if ice ratings change from area to area as much as rock ratings do (i.e. a Vantage 5.11 vs a Leavenworth 5.11 is quite a difference!)

    Steve,

    Don't worry about the area to area rating variations. Waterfall ice by its very nature is so much more varriable that the ratings could ever be. A WI6 can form up as a WI4 and a WI4 as a WI6. Your best resource will be a knowlegeable local at the time of your visit.

    -Mitch

  5. I agree with Chris. Replace the pins.

    Also worth considering, the route is extremely run out, but what are the consequences of a fall? Deck on a ledge? Or a looong ride? In other words, are we talking about percieved risk or actual risk?

    Sport climbers need not reply.

    We know you can't tell the difference.

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