Retrosaurus
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Mattp, Thanks for clearly seeing and stating the issue. Please don't refer to bolt removal as vigilanteism or a heroic crusade . Like you said, almost everyone agrees that bolts near natural protection is unacceptable. It is just that I am willing to take some initiative and do something about it. If I had your gift for communication, the issue would be more palletable. But the truth is this shit just pisses me off a bit much and I am not mature enough to resist taking a few shots. BTW: Just how tall is Matt Kerns anyway?
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quote: Originally posted by Dru: Retro - make him admit to what he's in prison for before you agree to marry him He would have to give me access to substantial assets in foreign banks also . And I don't mean Lycra-wrapped horsecock.
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quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: ...just how tall are you guys? My pop sensibility says smaller than average. So come on fess up how tall are you? If I had met you I wouldn't be asking. Average US male 5' 10" I bet your shorter! Just post your real name and I'll post my height. Oh Gawd, this is sounding like a personal ad. You aren't going to try to hug me are you?
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quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Off, what your missing is that these guys are not the valiant noble guard protecting our resources but a collection of jerks. Have we met? It must have been more memorable for you than for me. quote: ...just how tall are you guys? My pop sensibility says smaller than average. My pop sensibility tells me you are wearin' danskins and sportin' a woody (at least when Dwayner's around.) Go hug yourself. quote: These guys believe that by creating controversy they can have their moment in the sun. Assuming that is the case, it seems you have a problem with that. What does your pop sensibility say about that? This guy believes that a little uproar gets noticed by more climbers and the message is spread more effectively to more people. Honestly the is entertaining and I enjoy a good arguement. It is easy when I am right. But you are laboriously long winded and wordy and I really don't understand any of your issues except: quote: Off, what your missing is that these guys are not the valiant noble guard protecting our resources but a collection of jerks... ...These guys believe that by creating controversy they can have their moment in the sun. Regards, PP [hugging himself because no one else cares]
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quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: ...he ain't my type. He thinks he's your type. If he didn't, you wouldn't have to worry about that boner.
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Rush Limbaugh ? trad or sport climber?
Retrosaurus replied to Dennis_Harmon's topic in Climber's Board
Lush Rimjob would be a sport climber. Foremost he is a capitalist. Sport climbing is good for the economy. You can sell soo much more crap to soo many more lemmings. He is pro-development. Fuck the environment. What we really need is economic growth. -
quote: Originally posted by Off White: Typically, in a bolt war, the real loser is the rock you purport to revere. Just which typical bolt war are you referring to? quote: Are you just going after egregiously placed bolts adjacent to natural pro, or are you out to remove bolt protected face climbs? Bolts where natural protection is adequate. quote: Do what you want, but post a TR after the fact.Today I removed 3/4 of the bolts on a naturally protectable face climb. My 5-year old son got tired before we could finish. I will post the particulars after it is done. quote: If you want to be bold visionaries, don't sneak around like a terrorist, take responsibility for your actions, and real names too if you please... I have no interest in being a bold visionary. The vision is not mine, it has been spelled out a long time ago by much greater and more eloquent climbers than me. Read: Robinson, Chouinard, Messner. I, like many others, just happen to know right from wrong; and like few others don't have a problem doing something about it. I have no problem taking responsibility for my actions. You want my real name? You can have it and my address too for posting the name of the DDD retro-bolter and the name of the person that put the bolt on the route named Pearly Gates and the name of the person that put two bolts on the route to the right of it after I had already done the first ascent. I want their names so that they can receive the public mud-slinging that they deserve. Or you can just ask around, people know who I am.
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quote: Originally posted by Dru: Somebody take a digital camera along and shoot video of Dwayner and pope getting hugged by Peter Puget "HELP!! HE'S GOT A BONER!!!
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I chopped bolts today. I think I'll chop bolts tomorrow. Can you say: "Warm and fuzzy?"
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quote: Originally posted by anthonysmarocks: Hey Butt Buddies, a womans point of view is this: My man packs a gun that drills deep. I love my bolts. Sport Climbing is like Sport Sex, it is harder, faster, deeper, and I don't have to pack a shitload of unused gear to be hard. Pack your crow bar, 'cuz you are shooting blanks. You need to get tested for AIDS.
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quote: Originally posted by glen: So far, the best tool I've come across for pulling bolts is a ball joint adjuster and a hammer. Looks like a tuning fork, but wedged at the end of the tongs. Waaaay better than a crowbar. No bolt can resist. I did a little google searching and came up with a tie rod separator. It looks the same, but the space between the forks is closer to 3/4" as opposed to 1" for a ball joint separator. At roughly the price of a nut tool, every climber should have one (,especially those that are bolting "faster than their neurons can fire.") Now I'm going shopping and then I have a little work to do. I'll let y'all know how things work. Talk is great. But talk is just talk. If nothing changes, then nothing changes. The great majority of climbers know that bolts do not belong where natural protection will protect the climber.
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quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Yeah, but my horsecock and cheese were untouched!! Not even the lowest snaffle hound would get anywhere near that fumunda cheese.
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Puget, Do you stand for anything? You produce a lot of words, but as far as I can tell you have not taken a solid position on any issue other than you want a hug from Dwayner. No. I do not want a hug either.
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quote: Originally posted by RayBonbon: I agree that rampant bolting is the shits, but that problem's been around a long time. A long time if, ...you're younger than my car; or ...if your girlfriend isn't older than Britney Spears. BTW, my apologies to allison.
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No shit! Der Bavarian village has added a "Sausage Fest" and the whole town will be hanging their weiners out. Does this have CCs written all over it or what?
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quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: We can get them back though. Every time you're in the vacinity of a ranger station, stop in and ask them some really, really stupid questions like, "Do I need to bring a gun on this hike?" or something like, "What's the best way to go number 2 up in the mountains?" It makes them have to do some actual work. They hate that. Dennis Or what to do about nosebleeds while climbing. The really dense ones don't even know when they've been trolled.
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Trask, you are a self-proclaimed poseur. quote: Originally posted by sk: here are many gen, x ers who have also atained a degree of enlightenment that you will not find in your life. Enlightenment found at Vantage with a grigri in one hand and a cell phone in the other. [ 06-17-2002, 09:31 PM: Message edited by: Retrosaurus ]
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I think that public humiliation may be the solution. If anyone claims these prizes they can be blacklisted and have feces flung at them when they are sighted at the crags. If I find out who they are I will gladly throw the first turd.
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quote: Originally posted by Matt:
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quote: Originally posted by mtngrrrl: At least get the grammar correct. I'll bet that 9 out of 10 people do not know the difference between "your" and "you're".
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quote: Originally posted by Retrosaurus: ...the route that I lead the last time I was there had sprouted a bolt at the bottom and a bolt near the top ... Does anyone know about these bolts? Or do they just pop up like mushrooms after a good rain. quote: ...the route with the bolt in the overhang between the double cracks. Does anyone else wonder what that bolt is for? Has anyone else even climbed this route? Am I missing some thing or is this a stupid bolt?
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ALERT INFECTION CONTROL SHRINKING BALL DISEASE HAS SPREAD FROM FRENCHMAN COULEE TO ICICLE. INITIATE IMMEDIATE QUARANTINE
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I went to Pearly Gates yesterday and found that the route that I lead the last time I was there had sprouted a bolt at the bottom, like ten feet up from a flat unobstructed landing (,sheit, you could fall from there an' there wouldn't even be bones stickin' out) and a bolt near the top where I had put four pieces of gear in in the space of three feet. What's up with that? Yesterday I lead the route with the bolt in the overhang between the double cracks. Does anyone else wonder what that bolt is for? It is well above the crux and the moves that it protects are easily protected by your choice of traditional hardware. Before I use it to finish the wind chimes I've been collecting for does anyone want to attempt to justify it? I suppose I could be persuaded to part with the wind chimes if anyone wants to claim the offending hardware.
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quote: Originally posted by ryland moore: It bodes the question, Are there too many climbers in the mountains Here is a question that both begs and defies qualification. Too many climbers for who? Too many climbers for the health and maintenance of the alpine environment? For sure! Everest is the highest dump in the world. Muir reeks of human excrement. Excessive regulations are in place in all US mtn ranges in a futile attempt to allow alpine places to recover from excessive human impact while all that really happens is another layer of bureaucracy is added and true alpine experience is destroyed for all that stay between the legal lines. Too many climbers for the climbing industry? Hardly. It's all about money. More climbers = more money; for manufacturers, for retailers, for tourism (guide/travel services), for climbing press, for climbing gyms, for bureaucracy (the more they spend the more they get). quote: with too little experience People have a right to be stupid and to die in the mountains (or else where.) What experienced climber has not witlessly stepped over the line and been graciously allowed by fate to step back? We just do not have the right to take others down with us. Rescue is not (or should not be) an entitlement (just because we can carry a cell phone.) We all began without experience, and this is good. This kind or risk taking is at the very heart of adventure. quote: or is it just as Sleeveless states, that it is just a numbers game? It's simple math. More people = more accidents. If there is one party on a mountain and a rock falls from the summit, maybe they get hit but probably not. If there is a party in every gully, someone is buying the farm. No one can deny this. But is not that simple. The real culprit is popularization and familiarity. It is splashed all over the media. The EXTREME craze. Climbing is now trendy and cool. Right up there with skateboarding and mtn biking. But that is just not the way it is. Climbing is nuts. It is dangerous. Every time you do it you could fuck up and die. Equipment could fail. Any number of unforseeable things could happen. Spontaneous rockfall. Gumbies flossing a mountain face with their climbing rope. You cannot control the risk. and if you think you can, you have either been doing a damned fine job of blowing smoke up your own ass, or you are just another lemming that popularization of the sport has been breeding. Gym Climbing, Sport Climbing, GriGris, Cell Phones, Guided Everest. It is still not tennis, and should not be. But popularization and familiarity are flavoring it that way. quote: ...just your average weekend warrior who has invested a great deal of time and effort into improving all of my climbing skills, safety and technical. The best we can do is to influence the odds. quote: ...most of us are constantly aware of the dangers that are around us. Thoughts? Am I totally off here? Yes, you are close to totally of here. The best we can do is to increase our awareness and tune our perceptions to the dangers. The very best of alpinists will develop a sixth sense for danger. Please don't take anything I have said too seriously. This is just my thoughts.
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All gumbies climbing roped without a belay should use the longest rope possible so that they can have the greatest chance to floss an entire mountain face of other gumbie-climbers silly enough to stack up nuts-to-butts below them.
