mneagle

Thanks for all the advice. One again, cc.com knows its shit.

My local REI doesn't carry the Restop 2 but they do have Wag-bags. Anybody ever try these? Do they keep the stink in?

What is the best way of packaging #2 while on a wall? I've read about PVC pipes and using old Nalgene's. What would you recommend for a 3-4 day ascent where pitching it off the ledge isn't an option. Thanks.

I tried to climb the Corkscrew route in late season and got shut down by the moat and 'schrund, which were basically impassable. Early season is supposed to be a walk up. I went back later from the Bedal Creek approach and soloed the thing from the bottom right sloping ledge to join the Corkscrew route. This was wet and scary class 4 climbing but I did it in boots without a rope and lived (down climb was even scarier). Once on the Corkscrew route it was all class 3 to the summit. Classic route.

My high school buddy Chris Kalous clarifies everything here. For cred's sake, I'll add that he did the second ascent of World's End on the Titan plus lots of other completely sick aid about a decade or so ago. Also, he is one of the nicest and enthusiastic guys you'll ever meet and he's really just having fun here, so don't go getting all bent out of shape. [video:youtube]

Does anyone know the policy on dogs in the Anderson River Valley near Les Cornes and Steinbok?

I know it's short notice, but I had a trip planned to Yosemite that just fell through. I still have reservations for flights in and out of Sacramento and even 3 nights of lodging in a tent cabin in Curry Vision. If anyone wants to come to Yosemite, let me know. I've been to Yosemite 3 times and I have a decent lay of the land. If I can't find anyone, then my next thought was to make my way back to my old stomping ground in the North Cascades. I'm climbing 5.10 trad pretty strong right now but I'm not one to chase numbers. I have a lot of alpine climbing experiences. If any of you are interested in a week long trip or have some time off during this stretch and want to bag some peak in the North Cascades, drop me a line at: neaglemark@gmail.com

I fully agree. It's one of the frieldliest places I've ever stayed. Unfortunately, I doubt everyone would welcome Camp 4. Here's a new thread of interest: Camp 4 Warning

The New York Times just did a spread in their travel section about visiting national parks. Under the Yosemite section, they actually recommended Camp 4, including advice to line up at 6:00 AM. I can only imagine the city slickers response to the bathroom hygiene and general mayhem of Camp 4. For our trip this Sept, I just booked a few nights in a Curry Village tent cabin for $74 per night, so we can pull in late and get climbing without any worry. We'll head over to Camp 4 early on Monday morning and I doubt we'll have a problem getting a spot for the rest of the week. Be very careful bandit camping. When I was there last year we saw a few groups getting pulled out of the woods. Ejected and fined no doubt.

Forget oxygenated water, THIS is moving in just down the street. I can hardly wait!

When I had my HAPE experience, I had nifedipine with me but I was nervous about dropping my blood pressure, as I was pretty volume depleted from nausea. I was also in denial (see below). Instead I used an albuterol inhaler and it really helped. I wasn't too surprised when that NEJM article was published about HAPE prevention with salmeterol. I've only taken care of 2 people with HAPE in Colorado so far but both were mid-westerners who came down from Estes Park and Summit County on ventilators. They both wanted to know how to prevent problems on future trips and I recommended salmeterol, Diamox and not being stupid (emphasizing the not being stupid part, of course). An important aside: Perhaps the most interesting (and troubling) aspect of the experience was my degree of denial. I could barely walk but I still had my crampons on and tried to make the climb with my partners. It was pretty apparent to everyone else how bad things were before I was able to admit I didn't just have some mild bronchitis (and I'm supposed to be the lung doctor). Colin Grissom told me a similar story on the Cassin Ridge of Denali. Basically, the same thing happened except the denial was shared by everyone in the party. Everyone kept taking gear from the sick guy and just kept going. It wasn't until the guy was gearless and turning blue that they admitted the obvious and got the hell out of there. Were these cases of thin air affecting judgement, recklessness or summit fever? It's hard to say, but I definitely learned something about myself that trip and I have to believe I wouldn't make the same mistake again...or would I? Forget the drugs and this whole discussion...we should all just pick up golf.

Andy, you beat me to the punch again. I will add a couple of things and an anecdote: 1) Diamox has a sulfa component, so don't use it if you are allergic to sulfa drugs. 2) It will make all carbonated beverages taste flat, which is a disappointment while enjoying your celebratory base camp brew. Story: Although Diamox does have some evidense concerning prevention of HAPE, on my last trip to Bolivia I developed HAPE despite being on it. We flew into 12,000 feet, went to 15,000 foot base camp 2 days later and then went to 17,000 on recon the next day. The next morning I couldn't walk more than 15 feet without taking a knee and had audible crackles and blue fingers. After a few days at Lake Titicaca I healed up and we ended up summiting 3 more peaks without too much difficulty (including Sajama at ~21,500 feet). The morale to the story is that Diamox and youthful enthusiasm are no substitute for acclimatization.

This is the slide show from Dave's website, complete with rescue and rehab documentation near the end: Rockies 2005 Slide Show

For people not familiar and too lazy to read the whole accident thread, this is Sam's account of the event: 3/6/06 Post by "Iceclaws" AKA Sam "Hi I post this to provide, for those of you interested, an update of my injury, and to thank you for your well-wishes posted above. As mentioned, my fall was December 2nd 2005, around 5 pm, at the end of a week of ice climbing in Canadian Rockies, with Dave and Pax. It was, if you will, a hiker’s injury: a misstep along an unroped traverse of low angle terrain amid our descent off Guinness Gully on the Northeastern slope of Mt. Dennis outside the small township of Field, British Columbia. A front-point of my right crampon stubbed upon something, pitching me forward. My left crampon skated across a rock and gravity finished me off. I fell approximately 15 feet, head first, laden with too much climbing hardware to complete the summersault. When I awoke the air was dim, the scene was blurry, and I thought I was in some city park I couldn’t name. A lightning bolt had struck my upper back and neck. I stood up and took twenty steps, which were twenty too many and I essentially collapsed into my partners’ arms. My confusion was short lived. My pain was not. “You know the drill,” Dave said to Pax. Dave is a member of Seattle Mountain Rescue. He rappelled down the remaining two pitches of the waterfall to summon the Canadian Parks’ rescue wardens. On his way down he fixed our two ropes with high strength tie-offs he knew would need to support the ascent of multiple rescuers and rescue gear. Meanwhile Pax, whom I had met some 4 years earlier while providing a lecture to his EMT class in North Seattle, stayed on the hill with me. He kept me warm, immobilized and hydrated, and he continuously checked in with my psyche. He strapped his headlight to the prong of a nearby tree branch, in strobe mode. It was a cold scene, the temperature dropped to minus 15 degrees Celsius according to the Banff newspaper’s coverage of these events. I rubbed my cold feet together in attempt to avoid frostbite. Which explains, I think, the guilty pleasure I had when a sudden wave of intense tingly heat washed over my hands and feet and I, um, maintained an erection I neither asked for nor deserved. My feet stopped rubbing together, because they lost all power. Nor could I move my upper extremities. Pax and I assessed limb by limb, muscle group by muscle group, all of which had zero strength. My limbs were floppy. I was tetraplegic. I thought of my family and the faith my parents place in my ability to make sound decisions. I recalled the wheelchair of a ventilator-dependent tetraplegic teenager whom I cared for as an intern here at Harborview. A strong puff made it go forward, a strong sip put it in reverse, soft puff for right, soft sip for left. Daily, he would ask me to disconnect his ventilator. Ten minutes after it started, my spinal shock resolved. The intense stocking-and-glove heat, the erection, the flaccid limbs, gone, but never will be forgotten. But this story is about something more than me. I believe it’s about quality first responders. Or let’s call them what they are: rescuers. Beginning with Dave and Pax. They knew the drill and executed it precisely. I could not ask for more qualified climbing partners. The fire engines from Field and Lake Louise spotlighted the entire length of the waterfall, turning night into day. The foot of the waterfall is a good quarter-mile from the road. Spotlights, to me now, mean hope. Ten Canadian Parks wardens involved themselves in my extrication. Four of them climbed the two pitches of waterfall to my location. They integrated the skills of Dave and Pax. They executed a highly technical litter rescue. Their communication during the rope rigging was deliberate and reassuring. I was immobilized in a cervical collar and full body vacuum splint, which one crampon stab could have rendered soft. Pax, having shared the experience of my tetraplegia, promoted the log roll routine to an act of religious veneration and advertised it to everybody on its every occasion. An ice shield was lowered over my eyes, and Dave helped one ace climbing warden, Brad White, attend the basket as we lowered - more smoothly than I would ever have imagined - down the ice. What I’m trying to say is: my rescue was a perfectly choreographed one. It had to be. My spinal cord had no room to wiggle. None. I had multiple unstable spine fractures from C5 thru T3. C6-7 and T1-2 were fracture-dislocations. What you see in this CT scan reformat: is a scary 8mm of anterolisthesis, or forward slip, of the vertebral body T1 upon the vertebral body T2 (the vertically-oriented lucent space between the two bony stacks is the spinal canal and you’re correct, it should be aligned). Vertebral bodies C7,T1,T2,T3 all were fractured with multiple posterior element fractures behind the spinal cord. A bone fragment was afloat in the spinal canal. Cerebral spinal fluid leaked from a tear in the dura, and an epidural hematoma tracted from C2-T2. That my spinal cord was spared permanent damage is almost unbelievable. I was handed over to paramedics by 3 a.m., still able to move my limbs. Plumes of goose feathers littered their rig when they cut off my parka. The medics monitored me, preserved my immobility, treated my pain, and missed every pothole and bump en route to Banff, and again en route to Calgary. So, I didn’t just receive ordinary help. With certainty, I received a standard of help that preserved, against great odds, my neurologic function. Millimeters, or a single millimeter, shy of that standard could have rendered me seated for the rest of my life. So what’s a hero anyway? You may have read David Roberts’ recent book about heroism in mountain climbing where by the end he concludes that it hardly exists. He gives Sebastian Junger credit for the most meaningful distinction between heroism and courage. Apparently Junger was frustrated that Perfect Storm was popularly lumped into the adventure genre with Krakauer’s Into Thin Air. He cited the difference between those so exhilarated by risk that they take, if you will, risky vacations, and those who take risks for a living like the fishermen who sank with the Andrea Gail, or miners, or to the point, rescuers. Heroism, Yunger said, is more than courage. It is, rather and specifically, “courage in the service of others” None of the climbers I climb with mistake climbing for heroism, so I doubt Junger’s distinction is lost on most all of you. I only raise it to consider that by no fluke was my rescue and pre-hospital care executed so professionally. Dave didn’t join Seattle Mountain Rescue for mere high adventure. Pax didn’t seek it in his EMT training. The Parks Canada rescue wardens were much more than ace climbers. All their training and their teamwork with the fire departments of two townships and their paramedics produced for me something far beyond what any group of overeducated thrill seekers could have accomplished. I spent 5 days in traction in a Calgary hospital, and on Dec 8th traveled home from the Rockies in a manner I never would have intended, upon an Airlift Northwest medical Learjet with my boss, Dr. Michael Copass, medical director of the Harborview Medical Center Emergency Services, accompanying as a flight nurse. I was handed over to Medic One at Boeing Field, and driven to Harborview. It’s hard to describe what feeling of homecoming is being wheeled into my work place, halo screwed into my head, traction vest ratcheted to beyond 50 pounds, to be cared for by colleagues. The following day, I was fused from C4 to T4. My operative report reads like a novel. For deeds so heroic as the first-responder care to which I owe my neurologic function, I am forever indebted. “You know the drill” Dave said to Pax. And they all did. They knew it perfectly. Thank you again, for your comments on this site, Sam Warren"

I believe it only lasted for about 10 to 20 minutes, if I remember what Sam told me about the event. Nothing like being an ER doc while experiencing spinal shock.

For those who remember Sam's accident back in 2005... LINK I have some happy news to report. Sam has managed to make a virtual complete recovery. Given the MRI, the fact that he even survived is quite astonishing... [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/upload/552977-saggital.jpg[/img] He's not climbing anymore (understandably) but has resumed his academic medicine position at the Harborview ER and recently tied the knot with a really awesome woman: [img:center]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/514/wedding.jpg[/img] Cheers to Pax (Alpinfox), Dave (Alpinedave), Dr. Michael Copass and the neurosurgery team at Harborview for saving his ass. (Pax and Dave are off picture to the right in the wedding party.)

This was my first recon into RMNP. I have found much more since then. Hallett Peak and RMNP Recon

Oh, you've punctured my bubble, all these years I've thought of you as Minnesota Eagle (you know, MN Eagle). Others have thought it was "Mountain Eagle" or (my favorite) "man eagle". The truth is it was my log on at my job in Seattle and I just wanted to remember it easily. I do have a lot of family in Minnesota, though.

I lived and climbed a lot in Washington for 5 years, then 3 years in Salt Lake City then the last 4 years in Colorado. They are all good places for climbing but each took a while to figure out. Yes, the alpine climbing in Washington is amazing. I've done several climbing trips to Bolivia and never felt intimidated by any glacier or verglas covered slab I came across. I've also spent way too much time driving to Vantage to get some sun and touch some dry rock for months at a time. The summers in the North Cascades are amazing but I got tired of such a short season. This isn't about Salt Lake City, but all I can say is that 15-20 minute drives up LCC and BCC are pretty awesome, but didn't make up for the obvious disadvantages (in my opinion) of living there. I guess that makes me a "libtard" or something. Colorado took more time to get used to than either other place. I feel like I'm only getting somewhat of a handle on it now. Here's my take: Lumpy Ridge has incredible granite and feels a lot like Index. Unlike index, there is a wider variety of offerings. There are lots of stellar 5.8's as well as 5.11's and up to choose from. RMNP has a wide variety of things from big faces to tiny spires. Now that I've done some exploring, it does feel a lot like the North Cascades but without glaciers. Most outings can be done as long car-to-car days rather than spending 1-2 days on the approach and descent, as well. I admit it's not as scenic or isolated, though. Eldo is WAY better than Smith Rock by miles. For one thing, it's much more trad than sport. There are many long routes of various grades that allow you to get used to the funky sandstone and then progress. For example, start with the Yellow Spur before attempting the Naked Edge. Ice climbing is a little tricky. The stuff up near Vail is easy to approach but the best stuff is a long days' trek into RMNP or a long drive to Telluride or Ouray. From Fort Collins it's about 5-6 hours to Devil's Tower but only about an hour to Vedauwoo (bring your double thick Carhartts and leave your shorts at how). Don't be discouraged (unless all you live for is alpine climbing). There is a lot here and the season is much longer than it is in the PNW. Where do you live? Maybe we could get out sometime. Drop me a line at: neaglemark@hotmail.com

The question has already been answered in song... Link

Looks like the boats are still running. Navimag Ferries

The Torres from the mirador during clear weather:

My wife and I trekked around Torres del Paine for our honeymoon in 2002. We did the complete circuit but went clockwise rather than the usual direction which is counter-clockwise. The major difference going clockwise is that you take the steep way up the pass to get to the backside and then get a gentle downhill walk. Going the other way may be best for weak hikers (easy uphill) but then you get a very steep, knee jarring descent. One thing to consider is the weather forecast. The front side is more scenic and if the weather is good when you arrive, then definitely go the way we did and do the "W" first. If the weather is shitty but the forecast is that it will improve, then you might want to go counter-clockwise so that by the time you get back to the front the views would be better. We did all the side treks including Valle del Francese and every mirador. All are highly recommended. The popular front sided refugios in the "W" are all very nice and sell food and beer. We went late season and the refugios on the back side were all closed, but looked much more rustic. The old refugios were still standing back then and gave some shelter when we needed to cook in the rain or wind. Don't think about sleeping inside them as they are infested with rodents. If you have a few extra days, check out the Lago Pingo area. We trecked out to the end of the trail and camped for a few days. There was nobody around and the side treks around the area were beautiful. There is a way to do another circuit around from the end of the trail per my old guide book but the rangers told us it was off limits when we were there. We were a little leary about the river crossings anyways. A great way to get back is via sea from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt. There was a cargo ship (ours was loaded with cattle) you could catch a ride on. It took a couple of days and gave awesome views along the coast. There was a section of open ocean where everyone was puking, though.

This may be a helpful article. I can't say I know too much about the journal. It may be worth looking into whether or not it is supported by the industry, but I sure wouldn't be surprised if some of the authors are. Looking up the bibliography might be a good source to find articles about what you are looking for. J Int Soc Sports Nutr. 2008 Oct 3;5(1):17. [Epub ahead of print] International society of sports nutrition position stand: nutrient timing.Kerksick C, Stout J, Campbell B, Wilborn C, Kreider R, Kalman D, Ziegenfuss T, Lopez H, Landis J, Ivy J, Antonio J. ABSTRACT: Position Statement: The position of the Society regarding nutrient timing and the intake of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats in reference to healthy, exercising individuals is summarized by the following eight points: 1.) Maximal endogenous glycogen stores are best promoted by following a high-glycemic, high-carbohydrate (CHO) diet (600 - 1000 grams CHO or ~ 8 - 10 g CHO/kg/d), and ingestion of free amino acids and protein (PRO) alone or in combination with CHO before resistance exercise can maximally stimulate protein synthesis. 2.) During exercise, CHO should be consumed at a rate of 30 - 60 grams of CHO/hour in a 6 - 8 % CHO solution (8 - 16 fluid ounces) every 10 - 15 minutes. Adding PRO to create a CHO:PRO ratio of 3 - 4:1 may increase endurance performance and maximally promotes glycogen re-synthesis during acute and subsequent bouts of endurance exercise. 3.) Ingesting CHO alone or in combination with PRO during resistance exercise increases muscle glycogen, offsets muscle damage, and facilitates greater training adaptations after either acute or prolonged periods of supplementation with resistance training. 4.) Post-exercise (within 30 minutes) consumption of CHO at high dosages (8 - 10 g CHO/kg/day) have been shown to stimulate muscle glycogen re-synthesis, while adding PRO (0.2 g - 0.5 g PRO/kg/day) to CHO at a ratio of 3 - 4:1 (CHO: PRO) may further enhance glycogen re-synthesis. 5.) Post-exercise ingestion (immediately to 3 h post) of amino acids, primarily essential amino acids, has been shown to stimulate robust increases in muscle protein synthesis, while the addition of CHO may stimulate even greater levels of protein synthesis. Additionally, pre-exercise consumption of a CHO + PRO supplement may result in peak levels of protein synthesis. 6.) During consistent, prolonged resistance training, post-exercise consumption of varying doses of CHO + PRO supplements in varying dosages have been shown to stimulate improvements in strength and body composition when compared to control or placebo conditions. 7.) The addition of creatine (Cr) (0.1 g Cr/kg/day) to a CHO + PRO supplement may facilitate even greater adaptations to resistance training. 8.) Nutrient timing incorporates the use of methodical planning and eating of whole foods, nutrients extracted from food, and other sources. The timing of the energy intake and the ratio of certain ingested macronutrients are likely the attributes which allow for enhanced recovery and tissue repair following high-volume exercise, augmented muscle protein synthesis, and improved mood states when compared with unplanned or traditional strategies of nutrient intake.

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