Magical place! I'm so glad I spent some quality time up there before it got over-run with nitwits. One memorable trip in 1989 with my wife and father-in-law (who was even older then than I am now!) we did the grand tour much like you and Kim's. I was out in the middle of Shield Lake on an inflatable raft when some hikers down near the outlet called out to me: "IS THIS SNOW LAKE?"
Good times.